Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't bother with the gtst actuator....when they were sitting around for nothing they were worth it, but now days because lots of people do the change they are getting expensive. just buy a manual boost controller "bleed valve" instead. they are more adjustable and start at about $40.

If I had a road gtst (and I did or about 8 years), I'd keep it under 200kw. Bit of boost, maybe a computer (nistune or powerfc, haltec is double the price for no benefit on a basic setup). Definitely shocks, springs and swaybars (guy sydneykid's kit). And then enjoy it.....spend any money you had left on entering motorkhanas and track days :)

  • Like 1

I'd dump the 12psi actuator in just for that little bit more of a gain. Hmmmm... Might just go for a nistune+tune and hope for a 210kw? Is that realistic?

Dont go the 12psi actuator unless you get an ecu. Or youll just end up in r&r

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

  • Like 1

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

Didn't think about the air venting business into cabin... that's an interesting thought. I think I won't go for cosmetic but might chase 210kw or so.Nistune and tune or something. Not sure if I want to chase 250kw just yet... gah the choices!!

Jeremy I'll take you for a cruise soon in my 33. Maybe this week some time?

Sitting in the airport now

KEEN MARINE! ! ! !

Hmmm... maybe. Haven't been since Mik last entered.

Need New Camera Practise. :D

Do eet! :D

Oh, cams licence expired, cant afford racing at the moment anyway.

Still would like to go for a look. :thumbsup:

Yes! I would like to see the beast in real life ;)

Last month I was out there and it was a little wet. Turbo Ovlov almost went into the tyres at the first chicane :wacko:

Yeah they are small that's for sure. They wouldn't even be comfy for a medium build person.

Picked up the r33 from storage. Took roughly half hour to get started and then puffed black smoke for a while but now it's perfectly fine. Put a fresh tank of fuel in and took it for a good spin.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...