Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have two to try, one is a HKS style split dump pipe, and the other is a dump/front pipe in one of a mates R33, judging by whats for sale in the shops the 33 and 32 front/dump pipes you can buy fir both no probs

Hoping to try both out

Will be doing it cold, first thing in the morning I hope

Plan is to removal the exhaust manifold heat shield etc and un-bolt it and bolt the other one up, hopefully :D

...and done it for you.

Long extension and undo three nuts (dump-front pipe) it should sit after dropping a bit if all OEM bkts are there.

10mm 1/4 drive and undo the bolts in the small turbo shield... unplug o2 sensor. 10mm ringy for the sheild bolts down near shock tower. These are brittle and may break (Clean thread and use copper eze when replacing)

Undo stubbie... think about it for a while.

No dramas really

TT

PS Did you say you had some spades that fit the ecu plug off a wreck? Need a couple.

it is essential to have the car on a hoist to get to the turbo bolts? or can i jack it up or park it upcurve to get to the cat and turbo bolts?

any1 has an idea which cable is the oxigen sensor.....rb25det has 3..... but im not sure which one to connet the air/fuel gauge cable to???? any help?

Dump pipe came of no probs, made sure I gave the bolts a good soak and didn't snap anything!

Problem was the two dump pipes had differant exhaust stud pattern, so it all came off ok............and had to go back on :)

3.5" dump next week, funnily enough, my car is making 205rwkw with a 2.5"dump and front pipe...........and a pair of 2" gaskets on the cat...........dodgy!!

Just by replacing the gaskets saw boost jump up a bit, so hopefully with a 3.5" dump, there is a few more kw's to be had

Cheers for all the help/suggestions guys :P

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone ever had a problem with the stud bolt snapping off in the turbo when removing the dump pipe?

I'm going to be changing my dump pipe this weekend. I would really like to know if I have to prepare myself for the painfull process of removing broken stud bolts.

The car is a 95 GTST,

Replys would be greatly appreciated, so if you have done it could you post up what happened either way.

Cheers,

:whackit:

wooho.... goddamn is hot...

i jst replace ma dumpipe & frontpie....

the secret to NOT snapping the bolts is to tighten the bolts jst a tiny bit, sot that the locked treads unlock.... then undo the bolts with patients....shouldnt be to hard....

but dont make the mistake i made... make sure to put the turbo heat-shield back on.... it realy makes a dif temp wise in the bay...

if your gaskets, either turbo gasket or cat gasket are Copper gaskets, use these instead of the cheapo silver paper thingies.....

i beta get bak to undoin ma pipes to put heat-shield back on....... :)

the best stuff to spray on the rusted corroded bolts is, 'rost off plus' it's made by worth, im a truck mechanic and we have found it's the best thing for turbo and exhaust manifold bolts. it's not cheap but quality comes at a price..

cos dont we all hate drilling out broken bolts.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...