Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Series 1.5 5spd manual

Stock RB25det series 2 engine

-3" turbo back mandrel bend exhaust

-Hypergear Hiflow 21U housing (not sure on turbo spec)

-Stock inlet exhaust manifolds

-Z32 afm

-Pod filter

-Stock injectors

-Frount mount intercooler

-Bosch 044 fuel pump

-Remaped Ecu (By Toshi on here)

-Exeddy Gtr 5puk cermaic clutch with chromolly flywheel

Makes 260.3rwkw on 15psi

post-31991-0-55131500-1307078748_thumb.jpg

post-31991-0-76634300-1307078809_thumb.jpg

post-31991-0-03264300-1307078944_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

1995 R33 Series 1 RB25DE motor

Engine

Nissan N1 Oil & water Pumps

Nitto Crank collar to suit N1 oil pump

New Low temp Thermostat

Nitto 1.2mm head gasket

ACL Race bearings

Nitto Forged Pistons

Nitto forged H-beam rods

Machine Head & Block

Linish crank

Bore and Hone

Nismo 740cc injectors

Management

Haltech Plug in Pro ECU

Turbo

Garret 3076R

AzCustom high mount manifold

44m Tial Wastegate

311kw @ 21psi

Running on BP Ultimate

Build Thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352798-zoids-gts-build/

YouTube Dyno Video

IMG_20110613_162913.jpg

Edited by zoidbergmerc

Just had my car re-tuned at EFI performance today after putting heavy duty actuator on:

Power FC

Apexi AX53B70 p25 turbo

Stock air box

Walbro fuel pump

Tomei adjustable fuel reg

Vulture motorsports plenum

Front mount IC

Apexi 3.5 inch exhaust

Stock injectors

Stock air flow meter

post-52441-0-69616500-1308203831_thumb.jpg

the ol neo.

HKS 2835 kai

nismo 480cc injectors

nistune

+ the usual stuff

tuned at 14psi. exhaust is causing a restriction

retuned with a new zaust.

320hp @ ~16psi

disappointed with the figure, feels significantly better however.

hopefully 89cal will have some good news for me soon.

post-59710-0-27446200-1308805620_thumb.jpg

post-59710-0-78887900-1308805628_thumb.jpg

post-59710-0-40277800-1308805638_thumb.jpg

Here's Mine:

Sorry, here it is..

186.7rwKW

545Nm

Stock turbo, 12psi

Disappointing power figure but very different and nice feel on street, very happy with physical result, but power drops off after 5000-5500rpms - as seen by the chart, can feel it on the street just as the chart indicates, lack of turbo ooomph after 5500rpms, that power result on chart was achieved at 14psi though, quite a disappointing number - was told my stock dump could be the cause. But then again it feels way faster and better to drive than the numbers indicate - fuel economy hasnt improved much though 15+L/100kms - but I do a lot of short distance stop-start driving and quite a few redlining as well..:cool:

post-49401-0-39372500-1309063751_thumb.jpg

R33 GTS-T S1

213rwKW @13 psi

13.1 @ 109mph

Highflow Turbo ( Unknown )

740 cc injectors

Malpassi Fuel Reg

Bosch 044 Fuel pump

Surge pump

3 " Exhaust

High performance Cat

Z32 AFM

Apexi pFC

HDI Boost Controller

Yellow jacket Coil packs

Intercooler

I think i should be getting a better Dyno result with the supporting mods... Anyone think differently ?

Got my car tuned but its going back soon.

Anyway its an R33 GTST Series 2 with the following:

Unopened RB25DET

HyperGear ATR43SS-2

3" JJR Bellmouth dump

HKS Hi Power Silent exhaust

Yellow jacket coils

NGK Copper plugs BCP7RES gapped to .7

Genuine HDI FMIC

Venom 5" body 100cpsi cat

Nismo 740cc injectors

Bosch 040(was failing during tune)

Nismo FPR

Greddy profec b spec 2

3" metal intake with Apexi power intake filter

Power FC tuned by Advan performance

Made 244rwkw on 11.4psi. That is with the boost controller set to 100%. That is as much as we can get out of it. With about 15psi, we should see about 270rwkw and 17psi about 280rwkw. 20psi should see 300rwkw on regular fuel pump.

Ive fitted a GTR fuel pump in there to fix the fuel pump issues. Probably will swap that with a brand new 040 pump or run it as a lift into a surge tank. Last printed dyno shows about 238rwkw on 11psi, should have printed the previous runs :P

R34 GTT

Unopened RB25DET NEO

HKS GT2835 KAI

Z32

850CC power ent. injec.

Nismo Fuel Pump

FMIC

Power FC

Blizt BC

Splitfires

some 3" zorst

350hp/261kw @ around 17psi

little rough on cruise so will take it back to tidy the tune up but not expecting any extra power.

  • 2 weeks later...

93 R33 GTST Rb25det with forged pistons (factory compression) and stock every thing else.

550cc injectors

Z32 AFM

HyperGear ATR43SSxx Work in progress Prototype turbocharger

3inch turbo back exhaust

Ebay cooler

Nistune chipped ecu

264.2rwkws at 22psi. Full boost by 2900rpms. Super responsive.

Below is based on 9 second dyno ramp.

atr43ss1billet.jpg

atr43ss1billetboost.jpg

hey guys, old dyno results with the 25 will post up new results after it goes in for a tune

R33 GTS-T S1,

S2RB25DET

Stock S2 Turbo

Mines ECU

Stock Internals

FMIC

3" turbo back exhaust

Pod Filter

Making 207.3rwkw @12psi & 228rwkw @15psi

post-71390-0-58671500-1311691100_thumb.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

Hi all,

R33 GTS-T S2, RB25

Stock Turbo

Stock ECU

Stock Internals

Stock motor

FMIC

Custom dump into 3" turbo back exhaust

Pod Filter

Running 187.9rwkw @ 9psi

with BP Ultimate.

Just got the car back from Croydon Racing Development

Nistune

HKS 550CC Injectors

Bosch Z32 AFM

Walbro Fuel Pump

Boost was set to 16psi (i think a bit too much for the standard turbo.. lol)

Ran 229.7rwkw

post-85421-0-54346100-1311732097_thumb.jpg

93 R33 GTST Rb25det with forged pistons (factory compression) and stock every thing else.

550cc injectors

Z32 AFM

HyperGear ATR43SS-1PU turbocharger

3inch turbo back exhaust

Ebay cooler

Nistune chipped ecu

Here's update with the SS1 PU prototype.

291rwkws@21psi (run was not complete as cooler pipe slipped) when the cooler is cold and average of 270rwkws@21psi when the cooler is hot, 260rwkws@14psi.

Runs were done on 14psi (red) and 24psi (yellow/Blue) high pressure actuators. No boost controller was used on those runs. This turbo was not equipped with a gate controller.

9 sec ramp:

power.jpg

boost.jpg

1996 R33 S2 GTS-T M-SPEC II

Stock internals (except for 256 in/ex poncams and adjustable exhaust gear)

Stock Turbo/wastegate/manifold

3" Turbo back exhaust with a 3" into 5"body out 3" 100CPSI vemon cat.

Apexi POD Filter

Tomei FPR (large)

Intercooler

Spitfire Coilovers

NGK platinum tipped spark plugs gapped at 0.7t

Apexi AVC-Type R

GFB Aftermarket BOV (to confirm for anyone, NO boost leaks have EVER occured whilst using this aftermarket BOV)

208rwkw on low Boost - 7psi

214.7 on high Boost - 14psi

That was the most we could squeeze out as the actuator was being restricted and the air mass meter had reached it's limits. Upgrades to come in near future :D.

post-76536-0-52666700-1312861854_thumb.jpg

Edited by Reflector

R34 GT-T

RB25DET Neo

JJR 1 piece dump pipe, Venom 5" body cat, 3" inlet, 3.5" outlet, 3.5" catback straight through

Apexi Pod Filter with 3" metal intake

Z32 AFM, Nistune ECU, 800cc Deatschwerk injectors

ARC Returnflow Intercooler

Hypergear ATR43-SS1

244rwkw on 98, and 279rwkw on Caltex E-Flex E85!

Super responsive!

post-29432-0-45940200-1313122238_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-85124600-1313122247_thumb.jpg

Series 2 R33 GTSt, RB25DET, 188.89 rwkw or 253.3 rwhp.

Stock motor at 170,000 k's.

Stock turbo at 14 psi

900cc JECS injectors

Z32 afm

walbro 341

600x300x100 front mount

Power fc

Pod filter

HKS split dump

3inch front pipe, stock cat, 3 inch kakemoto catback.

BP 98

Tuned by me and checked by Rotomotion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...