Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HOLY BRAIN STRAIN BATMAN :D:D

Well that was informative while at the same time headache forming.

Anyway, I just recently sold my 91 240sx SE that of course had Super HICAS. After looking carefully at the wiring diagram for the car I found that all I had to do was remove a fuse (from the panel inside the car, driver's side) marked ELECTRONICS to disable the HICAS system. That locked it up, straight just as Nissan states, and had no further issues.

Now from what I've "heard" the Skylines use a better system but the premiss should still be the same as it's electronically controlled. Disable the system and it'll lock. So I'm gona try this option first and if it does'nt work out properly, I will look in to one of the bars being offered. I'd just really like a clear cut, no nonsense, step by step install (with pic's) for a GTS-t. Anyone willing to post up on this?

Thanks guys.

Cheers B)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Installed my lock bar today, went in pretty easy, very happy with it, doing the wheel alignment tomorrow morning.

thanks geoff, great product and from seeing 8 pages to this thread...plenty of support to anyone having troubles.

I'll be using my car for the drift training day this weekend so should make it easier to do massive dori dori circles!!!

cheers

abcent, glad you like. Hope the dorifto is good too.

Jon, slowly producing but the back has spat the dummy so I can't walk right now (lose the use of my left leg due to disc rupture crimping the nerve). usually takes a few days to sort out but I have plenty of stock to get bars out withing a week of ordering. Cheers.

TO HICAS OR NOT TO HICAS THAT IS THE QUESTION. OK. let me get this straight,if i replace the HICAS rack in a R33 GTR with

a HICAS LOCK BAR.

1. Will i loose power assist to the front wheels at low/parking speeds but it

will feel the same at higher speeds?

2. Will the HICAS warning light come on/stay on and require the warning light

bulb to be removed?

3. Which FEELS better for street driving HICAS OR LOCKED?

does anyone know the answers to this question ?

I thought this had been answered many times across the forum but:

1. No you won't lose power steer, it simply reverts to the slightly harder setting. Noticeable when cranking around a roundabout at about 50kmh. Fitting a set of castor adjustors in my case completely removed the effect and improved turn in dramatically.

2. Yes.

3. It depends. Some people shouldn't have a license and probably can't tell if the front or rear wheels do the steering on their car. Just about everyone else will get some benefit. If you ever get some oversteer at over 80 kmh (and it can happen even if not hooning, I came around a bend where some tool had tracked mud onto the road and had a brief moment in the GTR) you will find the rears turn in the direction of the slide creating a tank slapper effect. This has resulted in numerous loss of control situations.

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...
Next you need to remove the lock wiring on the rubber boots at each end, pull back the boots and then "crack off" the large 4 sided rod end so they are easier to remove later.

"crack off" is a term mechanics use to break the initial resistance a nut or bolt has. These are threaded but you may need a large mallet or bar to help if you aren't strong enough to get them to move.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...