Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

everyone is going about removing the HICAS what is the main benefit of removing it maybe a noob question but ive read the 300ZX sites and some of the people on there like it and they have reached the 20yr old mark.

Edited by B-rice
  • 3 weeks later...

hi, am in the middle of removing the hicas unit behind the diff, how exactly do u " crackoff" the rod ends which connect to the unit. thanks

exactly my thoughts, how to do this??

have you done yours?

breaker bar with these kinda tool attached? (http://imgur.com/sUJ7i)

  • 2 months later...

I hate to revive an old thread, but I will be fitting a HICAS lock bar to my S1 R33 GTST.

The instructions on page 1 seem a little outdated given the comments in the rest of the thread, alot of people are doing alot of different things about the power steering lines etc.

Has anybody done on a 33 recently, what did you do and were you happy with the outcome ?

Attempted this last night with not alot of success. I couldn't "crack" the 4 sided rod out of the HICAS unit . The HICAS bar I brought still has the arms in it , now I know why !

It's going to need persuasion of the vice kind I reckon ! . So I thought seeing my bar had arms already , that I would just remove the HICAS system as one whole unit .

Well that didn't happen because one of the nuts was rusted shut , it started to round off which is when I stopped . Put my HICAS back in , cracked a beer and called it a day .

Thinks I might just get a workshop to put it in and wheel align at the same time .

It seems what should have been a simple job ended up being a pain in my arse .

Can anybody in Adelaide recommend a workshop that is happy to put a HICAS lock bar in with wheel alignment without robbing me ?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I just tried to remove mine and... i have a 3 and a half inch exhaust on my 34 GTR, so could not get the the right hand side, and could not crack off the arms -_- to a mechanic tomorrow to do it, dont have the tools i need to do it correctly fml

  • 2 months later...

has anyone here ever had issues with the arms coming loose after they have installed the HICAS lock bar?

I had my wheels aligned after installing coilovers and the car didnt feel right, but i couldnt figure out what it was. then i was driving it the other day and the rear rod that connects to the lock bar came out of the lock bar :/

had a look underneath the car for the first time today since and noticed the other side was loose as well. has anyone had this issue? i did them up bloody tight when i first installed it.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

No. It might take a bit of load off the tie rod end when you're undoing it but it won't cause any dramas doing it jacked up.

However in saying that, most suspension components should be tightened up with the car sitting as close to normal ride height as possible (wheels/suspension carrying the load). It's more of an issue with rubber bushes as they will twist and bind up a bit if you fully tighten them before lowering the car onto the wheels. You should assemble the parts with the bolts loosely tightened then lower the car onto blocks under the wheels or put the jack stands under the rear arms so the suspension is bearing the load (this is done so you can still get under the car!) and then tighten everything up to the correct torque. Drop it down onto the ground and should be all good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...