Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 635
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Exactly ;)

Your 2wd S2 33 is a bit different than a 32 GTR for 16k. But regardless it will need a lot more servicing allover the place compared to a brand new maloo.

I was not talking about performance on a track or drag strip with my displacement statement. I said for street cars. Say you got a 2.6L Turbo 6 with 300kw. Its in no way a replacement for an N/A 6L V8 with 300kw. V8 has better power curve,more torque,revs less and will be more reliable over all.

And yes you do need to Service them properly or you will end up on the side of the road ;)(Unless its a 20 lol). Turbocharged engines take more stress and can have more things go wrong.

Well you must have got a bloody good deal for 16k for a 94 model. Congrats.

Most GTRs for 16k need a lot of lovin down the track.

2.6L race engine VS 6/6.2L V8 is just less driveable on the street. Lag is present and torque is missing. Just the facts.

thankyou haha. touchwood everything stays alright, at the end of the day its a older car so ill just have to keep ontop of it....

reason he sold the car so cheap was because his mrs wanted a 4 door car so he went out the next day and bought a evo 8 and simply was in a rush to sell the gtr.

:) i had the car on the hoist to make sure it had no rust or weld jobs because i got rooted around on few inspections i made in the process of finding a good 32.

Edited by sultanaz

This thread is a classic :thumbsup:.

Once when i was driving my torana i was at a servo and was abused by some 40 year old saying my car was shit and a girls car

and all this, he was driving a yellow hyundai getz, something pretty tough to compare with obviously. He then received abuse from me

and at least 2 other drivers at the servo at the same time.

Another thing i enjoy is when p-platers in old 5-litre commodores proceed to tailgate me when im driving my gtr and i

shower them in black smoke after fueling up in traffic :) brings a smile to my face.

Probably the most common question i get asked is, whats its top speed?

Another thing i enjoy is when p-platers in old 5-litre commodores proceed to tailgate me when im driving my gtr and i

shower them in black smoke after fueling up in traffic :) brings a smile to my face.

HAHA BEST :D

That's a spurious argument. Why would I want to compare a 300 kw 2.6L with a 300 kw 6L? I may as well reply with "let's compare a 2.6L with 500 lbs of torque to a 6.0L with 500 lbs of torque", oh yeah and my 2.6L revs to 10 k and your V8 6k. :) See yah!

how does the rev limit affect speed? and will it rev to 10,000 rpm on the stock ecu? i think not. so no point comparing a car running a higher than stock rev limit to one running the stock. there are plenty of 6.xL holdens out there with the rev limit set to up around 7500rpm.

as for servicing intervals, the standard service intervals are 15,000kms, but they recommend it done at 7,500kms.

but yeah, i'd take the maloo, although i'd take a supercharged falcon over it, but honestly prefer a turbo falcon over all of them.

What an odd paradox; "Stuff that idiots say about Skylines"is now being said BY idiots driving Skylines...rolleyes.gif

I love this thread; how on earth is it not in the Wasteland?

Edited by Daleo

This thread must attract idiots lol

A rotary engine is now also a 4 stroke or perhaps a 2 stroke maybe even a 6 stroke

There is alot of misconception around the rotary engine. Its classed as a 1.3L engine in Japan but apparently that was done because Mazda "could" and they did so to keep insurance and other costs down when other people state that technically when the engine performs all its cycles which it does in 1080 degree motion, 3 full crank revolutions, its a 2.6L which some "could say" works as a 6 stroke motor. I did not come up with this, its on the internet, along side alot of other true and misleading information.

how does the rev limit affect speed? .

Quite a lot Marc. Same torque at 7k compared to same torque at 10 k is a lot less power.

I'm just pointing out the silliness of comparing same hp small and large displacement cars and saying that comparison is some sort of 'natural benchmarking'.

There is alot of misconception around the rotary engine. Its classed as a 1.3L engine in Japan but apparently that was done because Mazda "could" and they did so to keep insurance and other costs down when other people state that technically when the engine performs all its cycles which it does in 1080 degree motion, 3 full crank revolutions, its a 2.6L which some "could say" works as a 6 stroke motor. I did not come up with this, its on the internet, along side alot of other true and misleading information.

You seem to ad a lot to the miss leading side of it

Its a f**king Wankel

not a reciprocating 4-cycle engine

might as well say a Gas turbine is a 360 stroke motor

Another thing i enjoy is when p-platers in old 5-litre commodores proceed to tailgate me when im driving my gtr and i

shower them in black smoke after fueling up in traffic :) brings a smile to my face.

P platers? Driving V8s? you must be in SA, WA or NT ??

My turn to wade into the discussion!The low reving V8 will probably outlast the RB as the RB has to work harder to make the same power, but the RB will be using less fuel in day to day driving, i like V8s but give me a RB everytime!

This thread is a classic :thumbsup:.

Once when i was driving my torana i was at a servo and was abused by some 40 year old saying my car was shit and a girls car

and all this, he was driving a yellow hyundai getz, something pretty tough to compare with obviously. He then received abuse from me

and at least 2 other drivers at the servo at the same time.

Another thing i enjoy is when p-platers in old 5-litre commodores proceed to tailgate me when im driving my gtr and i

shower them in black smoke after fueling up in traffic :) brings a smile to my face.

Probably the most common question i get asked is, whats its top speed?

Did I happen to see you at hume highway last week? Peak hour traffic? and a white 33 let you out of the petrol station? :P

haha... im gald this thread brings the lols again:). A stock RB will outlast everything! Haha.

Any who. Back on topic.

I keep getting bogans saying that Im driving a female car (R33 GTR) and suggest I should get a commodore... hmmmmm, I think not haha.

Also the first guy who seemed to start this trend, was a passenger in a lancer with a chick driving who was on her red P's. I must say I lolled because 5 bucks says that this guy didnt even have his license. :P

Now you can resume the life long debate about "Import vs Muscle"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...