Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yokohama ES100 265/35 R18

Dry: 8/10

Wet: 9/10

Overall: 8.5/10

I have found these to be a very good tyre, in the wet they are magic. They can be a little noisey on highway driving but nothing too serious and suprisingly I am getting quite good wear. Have done nearly 30000ks on them now, including a couple of track days and a couple of trips to the drags, and they still have quite a bit of life left in them!

Dunlop DO2G 235/45 R17

Dry: 10

I only run on these at the track days, they came with a set of rims I purchased as designated track set. Can't compare with other semis but these have an unbelievalble amount of grip at the track compared with even good road tyres. Not sure if you would try to use them on your road car cause of wear and they would be damn noisey, but the grip!

Anyone using Nankangs?? Any comments??

im using nankangs, can't really complain much. But then again i haven't really given it around corners or anything, i'd preffer to wait for a track day to do that, or get off my lazy ass and go to kangaroo point or somethin. In a straight line they seem alright, only time i've really lost traction was when they were cold and i did a rev limiter launch, a little peddaling fixed it tho.

But yea, no complaints with them as yet

Would you call Continential Sports Contact II tyres expensive ones?

I got a drive in-drive out quote on a full set of these for the GTR (17"). $1610. So yeah just a tad expensive. But they guy there said they grip like nothing else and they leave Bridgestone Potenza's for dead.

I use Sumitomo HTRZ ii (may have got those letters around the wrong way) on it at the moment, didn't have a great deal to spend and also have way too much camber on the rears that doesn't have any adjustment, so not much point spending big $$$ on tyres when they inners are going to wear out so quickly.

235/45/17 (front, due to the rims on the car cannot fit a bigger tyre, yes i know difference in tyre size can damage the diff) were $198 each fitted & balanced, 255/40/17 (rears) were $298 each fitted & balanced.

Car came over with near bald tyres on it, potenza's on the front and falken zeix on the rear. I agree with you guys in saying the zeix are shitty tyres, could explain why after a drizzle of rain I ended up going over all 3 lanes of albany hwy in multiple directions after turning a corner (and not touching the accelerator, I was driving VERY CAREFULLY)....I wouldn't go with them again after an experience like that.

I'm more than satisfied with the Sumitomo's on it now.

Edited by randominsanity73
  • 2 weeks later...

17x9 wheels

firestone tyres 235/45 sport series.

got em for $130 a tyre

wet grip 7/10 suprised me that they grip and hold pretty well (AWD may have helped here.)

dry grip 8/10

For the price these are way better than nangkang nsf 1 tyres

  • 2 weeks later...

235/45/17. r32. 200rwhp

bridgestone s03.

dry: 9/10

wet: 9/10 saved me once :)

value: 6/10.

kankook k104

dry: 8/10

wet: 8/10

value: 10/10.

got these for 200$ each, the s03's were over 300 so the value for the s03's is lower when compared with the results and cost of the k104's.

kumho supra ecsta (cant remembr the exact model)

will never use these again, they were so crap in both the wet and dry.

Iv used a couple of diferant ones but at the moment im using FEDERAL SS595

and i am very suprised with them.

185 each for 255/40/17 on my 32 gtr.

initial turn-in is abit vague but the harder you push the the better they hold on.

better than bridgstone s02 in my opinion.

in terms of durability they are uneqaled. given a hard time on the old pac the marble up and get really stickey. one thing i noticed is that they dont end up all ski-jumped after a good 2hr session on old pac.

so overall good points:

dont melt

very cheap

very grippy in straight line

" " " in cornering

dont squeel

quite progressive.

excelent value

bad points:

not as sharper turn-in as i would like

has any one used the new dunlop direzza dz01? at 350 each i went the above.

tread needs to be more riged

need to be pushed quite hard to get the best out of them

seem to only like about 34-36 psi (hot) any more or less =not as much grip in cornering.

overall i would highly recomend them. (not for the pussy-cat nervouse driver)

they take some getting used to.

anyone used the new dunlop DZ101 ? :P

G'day all...

I have RE55's and love them to death!!!

I have a question for those in the know....

Yokohama Advan 32R semi's in 205 60 13 ? anyone know a cheap place to buy them? here or overseas????

cheers...

Ben you can get them from from Gordon Leven in Sydney or Stuckeys (I think) in Victoria.

But 205/60/13? what on earth are they for, a mini? Improved Production or Production Car racing? Because if they aren't a required control tyre don't use them, they are more expensive and worse than Re55, Dunlop DZ02G etc.

yes our idea was to get them straight from jp as well, and we were organising that.

Until....since the yoko A032R are no longer being produced and we expect them to be replaced with a better tyre (they sure as hell cant be worse) we decided not to get any until the new tyre is decided on. We have a set and expect them to last the 2 cars into early next year.

We imported our targa tyres (Dunlop DZ02G) from jp and saved a packet.

I had Dunlop FM901's on my big heavy v8 commodore, and as I got more comfortable, I was able to throw it hard around tight s-bends around 80km/hr and they didn't complain one bit!

They aren't a silicone compound, so they wore very nicely... but they did smoke if you got your foot caught on two pedals at once.

Dry: 9/10 (best *i've* used, so I dunno how these scales will work)

Wet: 8/10 (very hard to let go)

Overall: 8.5?

They cost me $230 each (best price in Sydney at the time) for 16x225x60?

Just got myself a set of toyo proxes T1-R.

Damn they are good. At the drags they dont spin (too much) compared to the ziex i used to have. They are excellent in the wet, and i am a much more confident driver with them. They dont squeal like the ziex did

So for the T1-R, id say 9/10 for dry, and 9/10 for wet.

Ziex 326 - 3/10 for dry and 1/10 for wet

Yeah Dunc's I have been scouring the net for the advan 32 R and had a sneeky that they had been out dated.... hmmm

yes I need like 3 or 4 sets of the things! so if you have you contact for getting your dunlops, I'd love to make an inquiry about the price of the 205 60 13.....

$193 from gordo is a right rip!

if only they were a bridgestone control tyre! oh then I would be laughing!!!!

Ditto on the Toyo T1R's, I'm also using 255/40 R17 on my GTR, indeed they do seem to exagerate the HICAS but it's not too annoying, infact it's sometimes quite good to actually feel it rather than thinking the rear end of the car is just possesed. Dry performance is very good, i think if the car is putting out more than 450bhp though it's hard to find anything beyond having pre-warmed slicks on that won't spin up when you plant the loud pedal......especially on the NZ crappy roads!! Wet perfomance is pretty predictable (read good), no nasty moments so far, got all four fitted/aligned for NZD1000 so isn't bad for a performance tyre.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...