Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need new tyres for my R33 GTS-4 (non-turbo 4wd).

Current tyres are 225/50/16 Sava Intensa, which seem to give adequate traction for my car.

I can get the same ones (Sava) for around $180each?

Cheaper Nankangs for around $120each

Or something like Goodyear Eagle F1s for $210each

They're the 3 I was told about today anyway.

Any suggestions?

Car is just a daily driver obviously and I want something that has decent grip in the wet too. Current tyres aren't too bad in the wet, it will only slide in the rain if you make it (obviously 4wd makes it harder).

I get $10 off a tyre, so F1s would be $800 fitted and balanced, which is probably the most I would want to spend.

I don't really want to get a cheaper tyre than my current Sava's so probably wont get the Nankangs but might consider the F1s if they are good?

Yeah thats definitely them. They cost good money as well.

I'd have to go with Duncan on the SP-9000's. I also found them an excellent road tyre, and would definatly use them again.

You must have got a bad tyre, incorrect suspension setup or tyre pressures to be unhappy with these.

I'd have to go with Duncan on the SP-9000's.  I also found them an excellent road tyre, and would definatly use them again.

You must have got a bad tyre, incorrect suspension setup or tyre pressures to be unhappy with these.

Hi Scotsman, my wheel alignment was done at East Coast Suspension which is supposed to be good. I have since found out though that I was not entirely fair on the sp9000's as I have never really liked the front end of my car and that was due to the front spring rates not being hard enough, the standard (too hard) bump stops and the whiteline swaybars being incorrectly set. I have had the bars fixed and it has made a big difference but it is bottoming out in the front all the time (only lowered 1 inch). Its not really obvious but you can feel it and it makes the car very nervous on imperfect surfaces (read: sydney roads).

I just need to get the custom springs made up and I have a funny feeling my opinion of the 9000's will change.

Hi all,

Just purchased an r34 GTT sedan, currently on bridgestone import tyres and handles great! Unfortunately I need to buy new tyres and am overwhelmed by the options including width, price etc.

Given that most half decent 225,45,17's start at $225+

Could someone provide some feedback on width?

I am running stock rims and unsure if I would get improved ride/handling by running wider rears? eg. 235 fronts and 245 rears?

Thanks...

I currently have Michelen Primacy, which are top of the range Michellen tyres.. Even tho i have bought second hand tyres, the grip on them is just to good.. They really stick onto the road.. even tho with 50% thread left, im really happy..

Got the primacy on z32 rims, with 215s/55/16s..

Worth checking out the primacy range.. But $$$$..

im digging into my pocket again for two tyre's

i bought some wide ovals for the front and i am happy with them but i cant get over the feel of my car with toyo tpg's on it's so gripy an with lots of rain coming down i dont even worry about slideing. @ $205 for 17's its a bit pricey the toyo 16's only cost me $165 its a big jump in price for one inch bigger rim delemas delemas

Nankang... they've done about 5,000kms, a track day of... "drift" (not overly, more grip sessions, but all 20min sessions and they still look and drive fine) have good grip in wet, and are... relative in the dry. HOWEVER, IMO all problems aside with every tyre I've ever tried is to do with varying power levels, driving conditions and how much abuse they sustain, also, suspension/braking and so on... as you can't really do a back to back test unless taking them to the track of a stack of lap and then comparing etc... SO there are a lot of variables when trying to compare tyres I think.

Cheers

Grant.

Just wanted to put a word in for the Bridgestone S-03s. These have done over 10,000 km on my car now and I just took them to a track day at Queensland Raceway where they did more than 30 laps (5 lap stints).

They're wearing ok (-1.5deg camber on the rear) and probably have about 5000km left in them, maybe more if I rotate them across the rear. They handled the track day well and didn't crap themselves though the front left looks a lot more average now than it did a week ago. :lol:

By lap 5 of each stint they were feeling a bit soggy but that's to be expected with a road tyre I guess.

I cannot say enough for these tyres in the dry, they are just so predictable and grippy. They're not so hot in the wet (sideways in 4th gear on the freeway, anyone?) but I am running about 240-ish rwkw with a 255mm width on the rear so they have their work cut out.

So yes they were freaking expensive but I'm not feeling overly ripped off. Next time I will probably try the Toyo T1Rs or those Revspec things (if I can find them) or maybe the Hankooks, but only if they're significantly cheaper than another set of S-03s. :(

Has anyone tried the S-03 vs something else?

hmm i thought primacy range were top of the list.. they are like 395bucks each tyre.. isnt that expensive..

I also have piolts hx on the fronts.. They are alright tyres as well, but they are getting really old, you can see marks on the tyres..

How much does the sport and the preceda cost?? Do they have more grip than primacy tyres??

hmm i thought primacy range were top of the list.. they are like 395bucks each tyre.. isnt that expensive..

I also have piolts hx on the fronts.. They are alright tyres as well, but they are getting really old, you can see marks on the tyres..

How much does the sport and the preceda cost?? Do they have more grip than primacy tyres??

nope just have a look on the michelin web site if u want more details. they are expensive but pilot sports are even more expensive :P and yes sports would have more grip for sure plus other sporty qualities.

Whoooohoooo :D

Just got my new T1R's on. I got 235/45ZR17 all round but found out i could have gotten 255 on the rear. The d@ckheads who serviced the car previously (before i owned it) had rotated the tyres. They put the 17x8 on the front and the 17x7 on the rear, thought it felt like crap.

Feels good so far but havent really tested them :D

The guy also mentioned that i should get a camber kit as one side is 1.3 and the other 2.

btw - Paying between 250-400 per tyres isn't exp to me, anything over that is though. Heard somone paid approx $800 per corner for pirelli 265/30's on 18 or 19 inch rims, no thats exp

:laugh: and yes sports would have more grip for sure plus other sporty qualities.

FUNNY - how so may I ask?? LOL

Just a point, I ran Pilot Sport for $220 (rear wheel, 17inch) on my Fireblade, and now run Pilot Power ($280). The Power is far superior to the Sport, and the Sport is a model that is around 3yrs old in the motorcycle industry... so maybe the Sport in car tyres is the older model, with Primecy being the latest model?

FUNNY - how so may I ask?? LOL

Just a point, I ran Pilot Sport for $220 (rear wheel, 17inch) on my Fireblade, and now run Pilot Power ($280). The Power is far superior to the Sport, and the Sport is a model that is around 3yrs old in the motorcycle industry... so maybe the Sport in car tyres is the older model, with Primecy being the latest model?

How so? well what i mean by sporty qualities is that they will last longer before turning to mush, grip more, and have stiffer sidewalls that improves grip and steering feel etc etc.

for cars its different, sport is the better one just look at the michelin website if u want to see for yourself :)

About to gat a set of 4 tyres, 235/45/17 for a budget of exactly $200 per corner.

Probably going to go the Hankook 104's for that price.... but what else compares to the 104's in regards to wet weather grip & matching price?

Cheers! :sorcerer:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...