Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Falken (semi slick TYPE) tyre but not proper R-compound, replacements for the RT215's which weren't too bad, but still better then any street rubber that isn't r-compound.

225/50/r16 or 225/60/r16?

  • 2 weeks later...

Falken FK452 205/55R16

Dry:8/10

Wet:8/10

Value: 8/10 $180 each.

These are great in the dry and wet compare to the yokohama c-drive's and bridgestone GIII. It's all relative and 10/10 in my book is racing compound. C-drive I would rate 6/10 and GIII 5/10

I have probably said this before, but the Falken fk451 are excellent.

I've just put a set on the stagea in 245/45/17, cost $200ea from Tempe Tyres.

They are excellent and progressive when they do finally let go, wet and dry.

I'd have to disagree there completely.

Mine have done nothing but be utter shit.

Pushing max power of 185KW (With a torque hole dropping to around 160RWKW when I should hit max power) I can still spin these tyres from 1st through to redline in second, from a roll at around 30km/h, by only punching the throttle.

I would NOT recommend these tyres at all.

Threw on a mates set of Bluestreak tyres, and they grip probably 3 times as well in the dry (Haven't been in the wet) and since they're not my tyre, I haven't really given them much at all, but at around $110 per tyre for 225/50/16, I'll be changing rims, and putting them on also!

My falkens in the wet are just as shocking as in the dry... Just pure wheel spin (Although, they're not as bad in the wet as I expected them to be)

Hi guys,

I've narrowed it down to three tyres to chuck on my gtr:

Hankook ventus k104's

Falken Azenis RT615's

or the Maxxis MA-Z1's

has anyone had experience with all 3 or two of the above, and how you would rate the three? I know the Azensis are more like an R compound tyre, but they seem quite popular for road use, I don't know what to go for.

Current tyres are Pirelli Pzero Rosso's on the front and k104's on the back, but they are completely shot and have no grip at all, car is a sideways monster :)

235/40 bridgestone potenza SO2

Dry :9/10

Wet:9/10

235/40 Bridgestone potenza g3

dry5/10

wet 2/10

hardly have any thread left so not the best example but there on par with the tornado's i had with 90% thread! tornado's SUCK!!!!

I've had the Maxxis MA-Z1 on for about 2500kms now, and have found the following:

- compared to the falken 326, the MZA1 are much noisier.

- compared to the 326, the MZA1 have noticeable more grip, but not as much as I'd like to have

- when you put the MZA1, they screech. And you don't have to push them very hard to get cornering noises out of them (annoying).

- I reckon the 326 had better grip in the dry than the MZA1, but the thing is, the MZA1 gave their grip away more progressively, whereas the 326 would grip 90-100% properly and then just let loose with no warning (whereas the MZA1 gives the screeches so you know it's about to lose it).

Seeing as I had problems after a wheel rotation, the MZA1 I had fitted were found to be 'out of round', meaning they are OVAL in shape! I dunno if that is an example of poor quality control or if I just got extremely unlucky, but the place that found it (not the place that fitted them) said that it was a fluke I didn't notice at the start and the fitters got lucky since the worst ones were on the back (I noticed it when they were on the front cos the wheel shook baaaaad).

I'm most likely gonna demand a swap and upgrade to the Toyo T1R at the same time. I wanna see what 'best of breed' tyres are supposed to be like. If they are pretty much the same, then at least I'll know for next time, but they seem to get nearly unanimously good opinions on here. Actually I'm more keen on the Michelin Pilot Sports (SP2) now, as I have a bit of tramlining and I was told that directional tyres are more susceptible to that - the Michelins are non-directional whereas the Toyos are.

Edited by sl33py
I wanna see what 'best of breed' tyres are supposed to be like

you willl never go back to cheap tyres - *nothing* improves the performance of a car like good tyres.

I have no idea why people bother with intercoolers, bigger turbs, exhaust, blah blah blah when all they need is decent tyres :laugh:

I have no idea why people bother with intercoolers, bigger turbs, exhaust, blah blah blah when all they need is decent tyres :huh:

Well in my defence... I've only got an aftermarket exhaust which came on the car when I bought it :wacko: And the car came with Falken 326 on it, I p1ssed them off as soon as I could afford new rims and tyres at the same time. I decided on the Maxxis MA-Z1 cos they were more spendy than other Falkens or Hankooks for the same size so I figured they would be better, plus I saw this page and thought Maxxis might be some kind of diamond in the dust which was cheaper because the brand is semi-unknown: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/printthread.php?t=23777 I guess it didn't occur to me when they quoted them at very nearly the same price for 18s as the 17s in that review, whereas (after proper homework) the other brands are nearly twice the price in 18s.

The Maxxis were definitely better than the Falkens in most respects, as everyone here has pointed out. From what I've read here, I'd hazard a guess they might perform in the same league as the Hankook K104 (when you don't get the problems I did with my particular set). That's not quite as good as I was hoping for though. It'll be interesting to see how much better big-name 400/corner tyres can be. I hope they are way better and I never look back. But even then you read reviews of some expensive tyres being called terrible. I guess the reason some people knowingly spend less on tyres may be because they simply haven't experienced better, so there's no urge to pay 400/corner when there's other options that get good reviews, IE you can't go entirely on price. My next set will be right up there in price though, in an attempt to find out - Toyo T1R, Mich PS2 or Bridgestone RE050A. Not sure which yet, I've read both glowing reviews AND dumps from a great height on all three. If I end up having to take a guess, I reckon as long as they perform decently for their price (ie not a complete ripoff) then I can't go too far wrong. I read the PS2 have flexible walls which can feel squishy around corners, and I've read the Toyos can tramline badly, and I've read the RE050A HAVE to be the "Pole Position" type (whatever that means), or they are pretty average. I've been looking at this table: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult...lay.jsp?type=MP I was recommended the PZero Rosso by the dealer, but based on that table and their previous inadequate service/knowledge, I'll ignore them completely! I'll be making the choice in the next day or so, so if anyone has driven/owned these tyres enough to compare between them, and knows which is the go, that'd be great.

Edited by sl33py

I just dumped my old set of dodgy falkens (cant remember which ones, came on my rims) with some of those bob jane xenons, three times the tyre and only $200 each, not great but hold on under boost when its wet, which is more than i can say for the others, great in the dry

I just got quoted:

Michelin Pilot Sport 2 = $650/corner (Holyyyyy 5h1t!)

Toyo T1R = $430/corner

Pirelli PZero Rosso = $410

Pirelli Pzero Dragon = $310

Hankook Ventus K104 = $228

I really wanted to try the Michelins but that's INSANE, I'm getting the Toyos.

Just found out the Zonda F uses the Pilot Sport 2 :D Stig set the lap record using them! haha

Edited by sl33py

Had the RT 615 for almost 4 -5 months. Still has awesome grip and turn-in feel. Stick to the road like glue. However i am currently using them for the front pair only. My Toyo T1R at the rear is probably in their 50% state, getting kinda loose and less sticky.

Question...has anyone tried Marangoni Zeta Linea tyres before? Had a good offer for a 2nd set (90% new)to replace the rear tyres. But i notice a tear on the inner rib, going to check with my tyre shop to see whether it's still safe to buy (frens selling them after he has damaged his rim & tyre hitting a pothole or something).

Kinda worried the air will leak someday....any advice guys?

Yokaharma a drive r1 225/45 R17

dry: 6

wet: n/a (no rain yet)

over all: 5/10

cost me $1200 for the set and i ant very happy ;) esperly after giveing it some at calder im now finding that even with a slipping gear box im still getting wheel spin on the street, and at calder i had very little traction. so i probably wont buy them agan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...