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Well im not planning on turning the car into a racecar, it will be just a daily driven car. I felt the front calipers needing a little bit of beef, rather than a single pot. Its just me not wanting to spend too much on big brand names.

You really don't need to upgrade the caliper then. I'm running DBA 4000 series slotted rotors, and QFM HPX pads. No problems. Didn't even fade when I had it on the track. I've got braided brake lines and new fluid to go in, but no issues anyway.

If I was going to upgrade though, the Brembos or the Akebonos look the business.

Ive got a full set of r33 gtst (front & rear) calipers with bendix ultimates; if anyone is keen? Was going to put on my stag, but i went brembo f50, just looking for rear brembos now!

Price delivered to Melb?

Hi All,

Just for reference -

The 1998 S2 RWD Stagea RS uses an S14/S15 mcpherson strut front suspension setup. R33GTST or R33GTR brembo calipers and disks will bolt straight up with a minor modification to the dust shield and some R33GTST brake lines.

The R34GTST will not bolt up due to the fact that they use a larger bolt. You can drill out the hub to make them fit.

Cheers

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...

the correct rotor can be purchased from Greenline:

Thanks for your enquiry. Pricing information as requested:

DIXCEL PD Disc Rotor (Front) WGNC34 RB25DET 99 AWD (3212013 PD): 14,553 yen (Special)

Shipping: 25,100 yen

TOTAL: 39,653 yen AU$515

DIXCEL SD Disc Rotor (Front) WGNC34 RB25DET 99 AWD (3212013 SD): 21,483 yen (Special)

Shipping: 25,100 yen

TOTAL: 46,583 yen AU$605

Rotors are 290x28mm (Height: 49.2mm).

Dixcel are soon to have distributor open their doors (next month) in NSW so hopefully pricing is better.

Brembo rotors are 324mm x 30mm, not 32mm.

The only Skyline rotor that is 32mm wide is the R32 GTR with Sumitomo calipers (296mm x 32mm). You need to go to the Akebono 355mm rotor to get a 32mm wide rotor.

hhmm what are the akebono disc's worth i still have to do mine!!!

G'day,

I'm about due for a brake replacement/upgrade just wondering if some one could give me advice on the difficulty, or rather potential of f***ing something up when replacing the pads, and potentially rotors on an m35.

Tinkered plenty with other cars, but never brakes, trying to save myself some money.

Looking at the RDA slotted rotors and unsure of pads.

Cheers

G'day,

I'm about due for a brake replacement/upgrade just wondering if some one could give me advice on the difficulty, or rather potential of f***ing something up when replacing the pads, and potentially rotors on an m35.

Tinkered plenty with other cars, but never brakes, trying to save myself some money.

Looking at the RDA slotted rotors and unsure of pads.

Cheers

Mate; it's pretty straightforward, if you're unsure, take a few pics before you pull everything apart and above all TAKE YOUR TIME.

RDA rotors are fine; I reckon the Remsa pads sold by GSL Rallysport (forum trader) are great value with an excellent heat range, although they are a little dusty. Still, I'd rather have brakes that work than clean wheels. ;)

GSL are great to deal with; I've ordered pads in the morning, and received them on my doorstep the next morning; from QLD to Blue Mountains NSW! Seriously quick service!

Mate; it's pretty straightforward, if you're unsure, take a few pics before you pull everything apart and above all TAKE YOUR TIME.

RDA rotors are fine; I reckon the Remsa pads sold by GSL Rallysport (forum trader) are great value with an excellent heat range, although they are a little dusty. Still, I'd rather have brakes that work than clean wheels. ;)

GSL are great to deal with; I've ordered pads in the morning, and received them on my doorstep the next morning; from QLD to Blue Mountains NSW! Seriously quick service!

Thanks for the tips I've been looking at a few vids and writeups online, for different cars mind you, but they all seem to say that most cars are the same. Will I need a special tool or like a C clamp etc to push the piston out for the new pads? Is there a requirement to bleed the system after changing them etc

PS thinking of grabbing something like this in the near to distant future, http://www.ebay.com....=item27c8937848 Thoughts?

PPS any idea when you are doing your next run of braces :P

Cheers

Edited by NickM91

Thanks for the tips I've been looking at a few vids and writeups online, for different cars mind you, but they all seem to say that most cars are the same. Will I need a special tool or like a C clamp etc to push the piston out for the new pads? Is there a requirement to bleed the system after changing them etc

PS thinking of grabbing something like this in the near to distant future, http://www.ebay.com....=item27c8937848 Thoughts?

PPS any idea when you are doing your next run of braces :P

Cheers

A little G clamp can help with pushing back pistons; just remember to only remove one caliper at at time to push them back.

I don't generally bleed after changing pads; but if you can't remember when the last time it was done; it's probably time.

Those wheels actually don't look too bad, but the +45 offset is woeful; you want to be aiming around +30 or +20offset in an 18x8".

Maybe have a look at Varrstoen if you're keen for BBS style in decent width/offset?

I've been out of action this week due to a nasty case of man flu; but my latest lot of CrMo tubing has turned up, so in a week to a week and a half; I should have some ready to go out. I have a couple prepaid, and they will be getting priority.

It's probably time to bump the thread, and start working out how many I need to make.

I just fitted the DBA club spec 4000's all round with the new T3 slot design. New A1rm's on the front and HPX on the rear, thanks for the good price GSL. lol

Should be good to go for the next track day at PI once they are bed in, hopefully by the weekend too as I was thinking of heading down to Calder...

post-63525-0-52504000-1341481778_thumb.png

I just fitted the DBA club spec 4000's all round with the new T3 slot design. New A1rm's on the front and HPX on the rear, thanks for the good price GSL. lol

Should be good to go for the next track day at PI once they are bed in, hopefully by the weekend too as I was thinking of heading down to Calder...

How do you find the A1rm's as a day to day proposition? Not too tough on rotors; noise?

I thought it was weird at the last track day, 4000 t3s and hpx pads all round, and the fronts were dusty as!

Rears were fine, couldn't notice any dust at all.

Only change I'm planning is finally fitting the braided lines and new fluid.

DBA 4000s are the cheapest rotors you can get that are actually made in Australia. Higher grade of metal should last longer than their street series or RDAs.

Hi All,

Is $300 for an R34 calipers a good buy?

Depends; are all the clips shims & pins in place; any pads, what about the mounting bolts? What kind of condition are the dust boots in?

Don't forget; you'll need a set of rotors, and ideally a fresh set of pads to go with them.

For missing shims; add $30 per caliper; new pads; $90 for decent ones; Rebuild kits $30-$50 per caliper. Rotors are $250ish a pair to start. It all adds up if you buy the wrong set.

If you're patient; sets of complete calipers with all pins, shims, bolts & pads AND serviceable rotors come up around $300-$350.

Depends; are all the clips shims & pins in place; any pads, what about the mounting bolts? What kind of condition are the dust boots in?

Don't forget; you'll need a set of rotors, and ideally a fresh set of pads to go with them.

For missing shims; add $30 per caliper; new pads; $90 for decent ones; Rebuild kits $30-$50 per caliper. Rotors are $250ish a pair to start. It all adds up if you buy the wrong set.

If you're patient; sets of complete calipers with all pins, shims, bolts & pads AND serviceable rotors come up around $300-$350.

Comes complete with pretty much everything except the rotors, including courier.

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