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Slotted, drilled or dimpled, they all reduce disk surface area to cool the pad at the expense of the pad which wears quicker. More surface area provides stronger braking force.

Personally I would be fitting solid disks for the road, and then chose the correct heat range pad for your driving style.

  • 3 weeks later...

My wife has decided she's not a fan of the PNM35's brakes and is talking about upgrading them. Far be it from me to go against my wife's wishes...

Given it'll most likely be a budget upgrade, my best options are modded R33 GTR or 350Z non-Brembo, correct? I'll probably be restricted to 17s still, it's hard convincing an accountant to spend unnecessary money on a depreciating asset. Sigh.

Maybe if someone has the time and knowledge (I have neither) they could knock up a summary post for each model?

Can't edit my last post but I found this elsewhere, which seems to answer my question:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288150-m35-brembo-brake-coversion/?p=5725446

Just in case I can't convince her to splash out $4K on brakes for a family wagon, anyone got feedback on the RDA slotted and dimpled OEM replacements? I'm after performance over looks. Also, I see people have used EBC Reds, anyone have other/better options? I haven't bought decent brakes in nearly 10 years, fml.

Edited by Hertz Donut

Can't edit my last post but I found this elsewhere, which seems to answer my question:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288150-m35-brembo-brake-coversion/?p=5725446

Just in case I can't convince her to splash out $4K on brakes for a family wagon, anyone got feedback on the RDA slotted and dimpled OEM replacements? I'm after performance over looks. Also, I see people have used EBC Reds, anyone have other/better options? I haven't bought decent brakes in nearly 10 years, fml.

Honestly Matt, just grab a set of R34 GT-t Sumitomo 4 piston fronts (with rotors) can usually be done for around the $300- $350 mark.

They literally bolt straight on; with some trimming to the dust shield behind the rotor.

These are a huge step up from the stock front brakes; I don't reckon your missus will want for more.

Obviously having a greater selection of performance oriented pads will help here too.

Throw in a set of QFM HPX pads; around $90. They bite well from dead cold and run up to around 550deg.

I don't rate EBC car brake pads at all; they're overpriced, and poor performing.

RDA rotors are fine; they also do a couple of budget performance pad compounds if you're trying to keep costs down.

They will look good, and still fit behind most 17's; (the stock Stagea 17's might need a hubcentric spacer if you insist on staying with them).

  • Like 2

R34 gtt brakes are as rare as hens teeth here in tassie only seen three r34gtt's here aswell

In the last 12 months I bought 2 complete sets of front 34gtt brakes with good discs for $200 each. 240 delivered from interstate. These where purchased through skyline spares in Sydney. They had shit loads of them and where clearing them out.

I haven't found a set of R34gtt front brakes yet and in the interim I've gone for slotted and dimpled rotors (f&r) and EBC pads (they were in stock, QFM weren't) red on the front and green on the back - difference to standard brakes is night and day and the rotors haven't warped and the vibration has gone. Boiled the fluid coming down the Clyde the first time and went to a higher temp fluid. The brakes still aren't as good at the bottom as they are at the top and you have to drive accordingly. I understand the R34 calipers won't fit under 18inch ARX wheels - what sort of wheels will I need?.

Yep I have new RDA dimpled and slotted with 350Z Brembo calipers from a wrecker.

Rotors were $360 delivered(front and back), callipers were $1000, QFM HPX pads for $110 and $600 for calliper service and fitting.

I've done only around 100km and there still is noise/vibration from the slots.

It does seem to be going away though.

I wish I went solid rotors- cheaper too

I'm happy with the improvement of fitting EBC reds to my stock front brakes and have had no issues (EBC got a bit of a bad name with warped and worn discs but have since improved their compounds). I'm currently rebuilding and painting front GTS-t callipers I picked up for $150 with discs. Just waiting on some 14-12mm spacers for the mounting bolts and also painting some 18" wheels to go on.

just have your local fitter and turner spin some up on a lathe

That's what I'm doing, just waiting on my engineer to get through his Christmas/New Year backlog. :rant:

Here's the R33 GTS-t calipers ready to go on (once I put some pads in them):

post-135423-0-91149700-1452512745_thumb.jpg

So R34 GTT front calipers and discs literally bolt on to an M35?

Same size bolt, no spacer required?

Disc fits on 4WD M35 Hub?

Brake line bolt on without modification?

Only Dust Shield needs to be clearanced?

Matt

So R34 GTT front calipers and discs literally bolt on to an M35?

Same size bolt, no spacer required?

Disc fits on 4WD M35 Hub?

Brake line bolt on without modification?

Only Dust Shield needs to be clearanced?

Matt

Hey Matt; yeah straight on.

The only thing you'll need to to do is either remove the double flare seat from the bottom of the brake line hole, or shorten the NM35 Banjo bolt.

The dust shield will also need clearancing; it fouls the inner edge of the rotor once you lock everything down tight.

  • Like 1

So R34 GTT front calipers and discs literally bolt on to an M35?

Same size bolt, no spacer required?

Disc fits on 4WD M35 Hub?

Brake line bolt on without modification?

Only Dust Shield needs to be clearanced?

Matt

I will be doing this, possibly this weekend or next. Hoping the stock 18 inch autech axis wheels clear the caliper. Otherwise spacers will become my best friend.

The double flare seat..is this the olive in the brake line connection point in the calliper? I threaded a screw into the olive to pull it out. Sounds the same as the R33 GTST calliper install but without the hassle of bolt spacers.

Sounds like the best bang for buck.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I have 20"s so clearance is not a problem =)

Edited by BoostdR

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