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I did clamp the lines. Having said that you were right. My rear passenger caliper once bled brought back some pedal feel. I would say it's 90% as hard as OEM now. I also bled the ABS but that looked ok. I had 33 calipers on my previous M35 which felt similar. Would be interested in the brake caliper volume measurements.

I might bleed them again, as you say any bubbles may now have been dislodged.

  • 4 weeks later...

I was looking on eBay for 34GTT calipers, found these in the link below but they don't look like other 34 GTT calipers I've seen as above. Anyone know the difference and what these may actually be off?

https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/131607620769

  • 2 weeks later...

S1 AWD C34; My findings

FRONT CALIPERS;
32GTR non vspec Calipers work and use 12mm od bolt that is roughly 55mm long
33GTST calipers work but use 12mm od bolt that is roughly 35mm long
S1 C34 calipers use a 14mm od bolt that is roughly 55mm long - Cannot be used in the 32R or 33ST calipers.

REAR CALIPERS;
32-34 are interchangeable and will work on all 32-34 rotors.

Initially i used electrical tape to wrap the 32GTR 12mm bolt to a 14mm od so when positioned in the hubs dogbone it will not move. I have put a fair bit of heat into these brakes so far and have found the tape has held up fine. This sounds extremely dodgy, but this was also used by duncan years ago and his has also held up fine.
Now i have 12mm id to 14mm od pipe from a hardware store from overseas if you google like I have done. Should be around $8-20 to your door. Or scottym35 sells them already cut to size for ~$60 but it isn't worth it.

32GTR rotors shoudln't be used with 33GTST calipers as the 32 Rotors are 2mm wider, I am using 32GTR rotors, but had to rub the pads down a little on concrete, rubbing pads down on concrete is a normal thing when fitting new pads to rotors, so i dont see a problem as long as you have a flat surface to begin with.

The FRONT dust shield on the stagea needs to be trimmed or bent back where the caliper bolts to the hub as the edges of the caliper will hit the plate.
The REAR dust shield needs to be cut off completely as the 32-34 rotor is roughly 20mm larger in diameter than the stageas.

If using 33GTST FRONT lines you need to consider whether you want them to sit in their original position or are fine with them being metal cable tied out of the way.
Using 32GTR REAR lines is fine.

These are my findings.

Check out chrisfix on youtube for some great how to videos on bleeding brakes etc.

Can't edit my last post but I found this elsewhere, which seems to answer my question:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288150-m35-brembo-brake-coversion/?p=5725446

Just in case I can't convince her to splash out $4K on brakes for a family wagon, anyone got feedback on the RDA slotted and dimpled OEM replacements? I'm after performance over looks. Also, I see people have used EBC Reds, anyone have other/better options? I haven't bought decent brakes in nearly 10 years, fml.

Ok, an update on RDA dimpled and slotted :

I hate them, thinking of changing them out to solid.

Car pulls up great, except now I have bad bed in on the fronts.

Rotors are shiny on the outer edges only so the pads aren't in full contact.

These rotors are a bad design, the slots are too big/deep or something.

The vibration through the pedal is enormous.

Their not warped just noisy as.

  • 3 weeks later...

Searched the forums and the part number 'RDA8129' didn't show up.

Are these a direct replacement for stock rotors?

Diameter 290mm

Original Height 49mm

Original Thickness 28mm

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Stagea-290mm-Disc-1996-2001-FRONT-DISC-BRAKE-ROTORS-RDA8129-PAIR-/281752305235?hash=item4199befe53:g:iPsAAOSwd0BVsaAM

Cheers.

BOLT SLEEVES.

$4 and they fit perfectly. f**k load better than paying $60 for the exact same thing.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391261964259?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Tape and glue was fine when i took them off yesterday. Of course it will be, it's rated at 130deg and it has no way of unraveling.

  • 4 months later...

I've got a set of R34 GTT Sumitomo 4-spot front calipers, 310 x 30mm disks, and new pads, ready to fit to my NM35.

(I also got new disks and pads for the standard M35 rears.)

The GTT calipers arrived with the hard lines snipped off flush with the fitting that screws into the calipers.

I can't find photo reference of GTT caliper hard lines & don't know how long they are or what shape.

I don't know much about brakes, so I'm in a quandary and need help with what my next steps should be:

FRONT

Do braided lines fit directly to the GTT caliper, or do they come with a section of hard line, or do I need to source specific GTT-shaped hard lines separately?

BRAIDED LINE KITS

HEL don't do an M35 braided line kit. Do any other firms supply M35 kits? And will they fit the GTT calipers?

Or, will an R34 GTT line kit fit the Stagea?

REAR

Will braided rear GTT lines fit the standard M35 rear brakes?

So many questions, so few clues. So a big thanks to anyone who can help me.

Edited by Darkmeat

I'm sorry I can't help with which specific brake lines will fit, but you will be able to remove the remainder of the hard lines in the caliper by just undoing the nut. Once you, if you look inside the caliper you will see there is a cone shaped fitting that the hard line seals to.

If you don't remove that fitting you can use a brake line with a flared end. 

If you remove that fitting you should use a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers.

The lack of hard line only impacts the length of the brake line you need. Start by seeing if your standard lines are long enough and you'll be able to decide how long you need from there.

  • Like 1
On 12/08/2016 at 0:02 PM, Duncan said:

 [... you will be able to remove the remainder of the hard lines in the caliper by just undoing the nut. Once you, if you look inside the caliper you will see there is a cone shaped fitting that the hard line seals to.

If you don't remove that fitting you can use a brake line with a flared end. 

If you remove that fitting you should use a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers.

The lack of hard line only impacts the length of the brake line you need. ...]

OK. Thanks Duncan. That answers about 20 of the questions I had.

Most aftermarket braided lines I've seen have banjo bolts and crush washers. So out come the olives, and in go HEL R34GTT front lines.

And for the rears, I'll see what HEL's got in the right length, or get them made to length.

Solved! Thank you kindly!

Car is a 1997 S1 RSFOUR and after reading though many pages here and not finding much, what is out there for someone like me who is not interested in a brake upgrade but I need new disks? From what I can see new replacements either don't existor are hens teeth. S2 look like they are possible to get but differ from S1. Sorry for posting a possibly obvious question but help would be great as mine are getting towards rice crackers! Cheers!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

easiest way to be sure is remove one bolt from your caliper and measure whether it is 12mm (r33) or 14mm (r34) diameter. Keeping in mind you could choose to run 33 size / 12mm in either hub with spacers  (or whatever else) around the bolt to locate it.

 

my guess is S1.5 will be 14mm, my late model, s1 was....

  • Like 1

As I remember GTT brakes bolted straight on to My S1 Stagea (had to trim the backing plate for the rears and pull the olives out)  - I don't know if your DE is different from the DET but just get some GTT brakes - you should be able to make them fit without too much trouble.

As I remember GTT brakes bolted straight on to My S1 Stagea (had to trim the backing plate for the rears and pull the olives out)  - I don't know if your DE is different from the DET but just get some GTT brakes - you should be able to make them fit without too much trouble.

Is that R33 GTT? I might take mine off and see what size the bolt is or something

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