Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines


Recommended Posts

Sydney roads are f*cked. For one of the "best cities in the world" they should really improve the road system. I didn't realise how f**ked it was until I got coil-overs and set the dampening to the softest setting and still bounced all over...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydney roads are f*cked. For one of the "best cities in the world" they should really improve the road system. I didn't realise how f**ked it was until I got coil-overs and set the dampening to the softest setting and still bounced all over...

i wouldnt list Sydney that highly.......

as for the dampening thing. i thought the same thing.....soft settings = soft ride.

seems i was wrong, on soft the bounces seem to continue on. ive got mine wound about half way to hard on the front. and a few notches less on the rear and it became alot more drivable on my crappy ass main road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

XXR 527's for a r34 gtt

18x9.75 +20 or 18x8.75 +20?

Which would be the better flush fitment (aggressive but not a ton of camber)?

Guards will be rolled and lipped btw

18x9.75+20 will poke fronts, inset rears. Won't need camber, will only scrub on full lock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18x9.75+20 will poke fronts, inset rears. Won't need camber, will only scrub on full lock.

So would it be better to run 18x8.75 + 20 up front then? Or would that be too flush/not very good stance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So would it be better to run 18x8.75 + 20 up front then? Or would that be too flush/not very good stance?

I am about to buy 18x9.5+22 fronts. The way I see it, I don't full lock often. I am looking for form>function. But yeah, if you go the 8.75, you will be 12mm LESS poke. Depends if you want it to look good, or be functional. But I would go wider on the rears or think about bolt on spacers if you want some flush. I am going 18x10.5+30 rears, I don't think that is poke enough, but I haven't bolted them on to see, I am going off a mates car that has 18x9.5+20 all round and his rears are inset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how

9.5 +22 (front)

10.5 +30 (rear)

Will sit on a gtt?

Too aggresive or nahh?

If you took any sort of time to actually read this thread, you will realize that I am doing that exact fitment. I wish people would actually read the thread before posting. I went through 95 pages of this thread before I asked any questions. Took me a few hours, but at least I know what I am talking about now. Anyone can tell you it will fit, but you want to get the fitment that YOU want, not what other people say will look good.

Either way. With that fitment, you will NEED the guards rolled, front and back. With no camber, you will poke fronts, and hopefully poke rears. Only by about 5mm, but poke none the less. Run stretched tyres, and lower the car onto them, and you will get some nice stance. I have a black gtt, going varrstoen 2.2.1 (te37 copy) rims. 225/30/18 fronts, 245/35/18 rears. You will get scrubbing on full lock on the plastic lining inside the front arches. If you don't have coil overs, get them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=396593

That is 18x9.5+20 all round. With that fitment we are wanting, fronts will be inset 2mm, rears will poke 3mm more.

I have ordered my rims already and I plan to have them on in 2 weeks on my R&R week (I am up on site for 2 weeks). Pics will be up immediately. If you want to wait until then to see the fitment, and judge for yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Dudes,

I am going 18x 9.5" +12 advan tcii's on my 33 GTst... it has m sport front guards and 33 gtr rear guards with original rear guards rolled right up...

Does anyone know if these rims will fit with 265 35 r- comps on??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have the same but in +22 front and +15 on the rear, and with camber they just fit.

So as long as your guards give you an extra 10mm on the front and 3mm on the rear than stock, they will fit no problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you took any sort of time to actually read this thread, you will realize that I am doing that exact fitment. I wish people would actually read the thread before posting. I went through 95 pages of this thread before I asked any questions. Took me a few hours, but at least I know what I am talking about now. Anyone can tell you it will fit, but you want to get the fitment that YOU want, not what other people say will look good.

Either way. With that fitment, you will NEED the guards rolled, front and back. With no camber, you will poke fronts, and hopefully poke rears. Only by about 5mm, but poke none the less. Run stretched tyres, and lower the car onto them, and you will get some nice stance. I have a black gtt, going varrstoen 2.2.1 (te37 copy) rims. 225/30/18 fronts, 245/35/18 rears. You will get scrubbing on full lock on the plastic lining inside the front arches. If you don't have coil overs, get them.

http://www.skylinesa...ttach_id=396593

That is 18x9.5+20 all round. With that fitment we are wanting, fronts will be inset 2mm, rears will poke 3mm more.

I have ordered my rims already and I plan to have them on in 2 weeks on my R&R week (I am up on site for 2 weeks). Pics will be up immediately. If you want to wait until then to see the fitment, and judge for yourself.

Alrightty, cheers mate, yeh i just could not be bothered going through all the effort!

but thanks heaps for the reply, i'll be looking forward to you posting up pictures soon!

With that set up it sounds like a lot of aggressiveness, me likey!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone have this problem? I've got a R33 GTS-t with R33 GT-R wheels on it. 17x9 +30 all round.

Seems like on 'near' full lock the wheel smashes into the suspension arm.

Luckily at the same time, I spotted the bracket holding the brake about to fall off, quickly bolted that back up!

378693_10152062538435352_1763147499_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...