Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sk, Pm'd you at lunch time today...

Response sent.

Till the gallery is back and linked, following are the prices for the full kit;

Nissan Skyline

R33GTST

73175 Front Springs $144.00

83139 Rear Springs $144.00

Front Bilstein Shocks $476.00

Rear Bilstein Shocks $476.00

BNF24Z Front adj stabiliser bar $219.00

BNR11XZ Rear adj stabiliser bar $219.00

KCA331 Caster Kit $110.00

KCA348 Front Camber kit $272.00

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00

KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00

W0921 Bump Stop & Dust Cover X 2 $102.00

Freight Zero

Sub Total $2,390.00

Less extra 5% $119.50

Total $2,270.50

:( cheers :rant:

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey im interested in shocks alone, can you PM me with details. Im ready to buy any time if you have stock.

Interested in front and rear.

I just wondering if I should do anything else at the same time. I currently have some too low and too hard springs that came in it off the boat. I really hate them, but I dont know if that is more to do with the shocks in combination with the springs.

Am I correct in reading this will give me some height adjustability, I just think it could do with being another inch higher purely for reasons of functionality and im also sure its too low to handle well.

I havent changed shocks in a skyline before, but played around with enough other cars, so it shouldnt be a huge deal I assume? Doesnt seem to be anyone trust worthy around here.

Hey im interested in shocks alone, can you PM me with details. Im ready to buy any time if you have stock.

Interested in front and rear.

I just wondering if I should do anything else at the same time. I currently have some too low and too hard springs that came in it off the boat. I really hate them, but I dont know if that is more to do with the shocks in combination with the springs.

Am I correct in reading this will give me some height adjustability, I just think it could do with being another inch higher purely for reasons of functionality and im also sure its too low to handle well.

I havent changed shocks in a skyline before, but played around with enough other cars, so it shouldnt be a huge deal I assume? Doesnt seem to be anyone trust worthy around here.

PM sent.

:ermm: cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Have just installed the bilstein kit from this group buy.

l actually look forward to getting into my car for once, as opposed to dreading the harsh ride before this awesome setup.

Garry how do you remain so patient ansewring the same questions over and over again?? ( i know i'm guilty of it :D )

All i have to say is that l am another happy customer.

Cheers Garry Thanks for everything. look forward to buying the stabilser's soon.

Have just installed the bilstein kit from this group buy.

l actually look forward to getting into my car for once, as opposed to dreading the harsh ride before this awesome setup.

Garry how do you remain so patient ansewring the same questions over and over again?? ( i know i'm guilty of it :P )

All i have to say is that l am another happy customer.

Cheers Garry Thanks for everything. look forward to buying the stabilser's soon.

What did you have installed Optimus and on what car ?

What did you have installed Optimus and on what car ?

He bought springs, shocks, caster kit and a bump stop/dust cover kit for his R33GTST.

He is saving up to buy the stabiliser bars

:) cheers :ermm:

Edited by Sydneykid
The front caster kit is a must thave, you won't believe how much a few extra degrees of caster improves the handling

Now i dont know much about suspension work, but my bushes have worn out (cracked), and its affecting my handling a bit even after wheel alignment.

Btw your pictures dont seem to work, so anychance you can fix this also please :)

Now, i got quoted at a suspension shop to fix the following:

S+F Adj Mod Rad Bush

Adj Cam Bushes

Plus wheel alignment- $610bucks.

Now i know this will replace my bushes and fix my front camber, as i think it was in negatives. Front camber should be dailed in postive to get more Go-kart response right??

Anyways what im askin is, what does your front caster kit include?? Or is this totally different??

Sorry if im askin stupid questions..

So in the near future i would like to fix these things.. AS going over 100ks the car turns left. It was ok for a few days after W/A, but now back to normal.

CHeers SK!! :ermm:

Edited by siddr20
Now i dont know much about suspension work, but my bushes have worn out (cracked), and its affecting my handling a bit even after wheel alignment.

Btw your pictures dont seem to work, so anychance you can fix this also please :)

Now, i got quoted at a suspension shop to fix the following:

S+F Adj Mod Rad Bush

Adj Cam Bushes

Plus wheel alignment- $610bucks.

Now i know this will replace my bushes and fix my front camber, as i think it was in negatives. Front camber should be dailed in postive to get more Go-kart response right??

Anyways what im askin is, what does your front caster kit include?? Or is this totally different??

Sorry if im askin stupid questions..

So in the near future i would like to fix these things.. AS going over 100ks the car turns left. It was ok for a few days after W/A, but now back to normal.

CHeers SK!! :D

The pictures don't work at the moment due to the gallery upgrade, Prank is working on that.

The caster kit enables the caster to be adjusted. Caster is the change in camber when you turn the steering wheel. Positive caster is where the outside wheel (in the turn) goes negative camber and the inside wheel goes positive camber. Skylines NEVER have enough caster, that's why they wander at speed, are reluctant to turn in and have poor steering feel. Hence the need for adjustable caster (radius rod) bushes.

The front camber kit enables adjustement of the static camber. Camber is used to keep the maimum contact pathc of the tyre to the road surface. So you need negative camber on the outside wheel (in the turn) when the chassis rolls. You don't need negative camber on the inside wheel though.

This why caster is better than camber, camber is always there even when you don't need it. Caster is only there when you do need it ie; when you turn the steering wheel.

:) cheers :P

Thanks for the helpful and informative reply SK. Learnt a lot.

Maybe if this group buy still goes till end of year, i might buy some shocks and springs of you..

I remember reading somewhere in this thread about how low the springs are set at. But now i cant seem to find it?? Think im going blind.

Atm, my fronts are 355mm, and rears are 370mm. (from centre of wheels to wheel arch)

Maybe with these shocks and springs, i can go a little lower? Hopefully the rear atleast??

Sorry i cant find your reply, where you wrote about the ride height..

Thanks for the helpful and informative reply SK. Learnt a lot.

Maybe if this group buy still goes till end of year, i might buy some shocks and springs of you..

I remember reading somewhere in this thread about how low the springs are set at. But now i cant seem to find it?? Think im going blind.

Atm, my fronts are 355mm, and rears are 370mm. (from centre of wheels to wheel arch)

Maybe with these shocks and springs, i can go a little lower? Hopefully the rear atleast??

Sorry i cant find your reply, where you wrote about the ride height..

Sorry the heights are included in the pisture which is not linked at the moment due to the gallery upgrade. Prank is working on fixing that.

The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that Skylines handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard).

The standard circlip groove with the Whiteline springs gives ~355 mm front and ~345 mm rear. So the range of heights is ~370 mm to ~320 mm on the front and ~360 to ~310 mm on the rear.

:laugh: cheers :D

SK i PM'd you but understand u may not of got it, i am after some suspension bits which i need to purchase this week have the money ready to go when u have the bits, its all in the PM, can you reply when you get a chance thanks

adam

Hi,

Im interested in a Camber kit, can you please PM me some details of this and pricing including del to Perth :)

Thanks.

PM sent

:ermm: cheers :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...