Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

paulr33 that is wat i thort

Cubes yeh champ just speculating but it should go close? wont it?

you could boost it more with 98 with less ping

Mafia how does it drive? when does it boost now?

thats wat i wont out of mine but its an auto

il do the usual mods and get a shitf kit and get the tork converter modded

james

  • Replies 333
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

drives the same until about 5,000rpm, and pulls really hard.. Shame it pings its nuts off in third at about 6,000 rpm

f**ked if I kno whats wrong.

I might drop the exhaust like what paul said, but I seriuosly don't think there is a need because its HUGE anyway.

Forget 98ron fuel, we can't get it here. Closest servo is 4 hours away.

Maybe The ex housing is too small, causing a restriction, and heat, and causing detonation?

I don't know... :D

What ignition timing are you running at wot? (peak torque, mid and higher rpm values)

Cam timing.

Play with the afr's and see where its happy.

Thats where I would be looking assuming compression is good.

Edited by Cubes

im running same gt30 set up as you mafia, it pulled 260rwkws stock engine at 20psi on 98 ron fuel. then had to rebuild the engine with forged internals, put tomei poncams in and dropped static comp from 9to1 to 8.5 to 1, this netted me 277rwkws at 21psi. yes iam also running an aftermarket manifold. will be fitting 4inch magic cat shortly and getting a remap using 100 ron fuel , i think 300rwkws shouldnt be to far away. theres a copy of my dyno graph in shootout mode in the members gallery.

define better results though ? dont loose faith jono, for every problem there is a solution just gotta find it. post up the dyno graph when u can get it and the guys can then go from there to try and debug it further

Don't loose faith bro, this is one of the best build up threads and have followed it intently.

The rewards will be there, and at the moment you are the inspiration behind me finally doing some decent mods to my line seeing as I got it rebuilt with venolia's...and have run STOCK as a rock for almost 6 months now...

Keep up the good work!!

My GT30 with 0.70 comp and 0.86 exhaust housing on custom made highmount manifold and 45mm external gate makes 255rwkw at 1 bar and around 310rwkw at 1.4 bar on 98 ron

With your 0.64 rear you should be getting boost alot earlier than 5000rpm.

aahh this sucks... what a waste of an upgrade..

I am seeing people with 2530s getting much better results..

Dont lose heart mate!

Eventually a solution will be found.........

=)

the problem is fuel... We can't get anything better than 95 ron here. I don't even know if the E10 here is any good. Its supposed to be 96 ron, and the tuner said I should be able to put more timing into it... Now with the ethanol blend petrol, apparently its 91ron petrol with 10% ethanol which makes it equivalent to 96 ron rated fuel. Dunno if its any good though.

pistons is another thing.. Apparently stock pistons are as weak as f**k.

heres food for though also, the tuner said that at 80 knock on the hand controller, he could JUST hear detonation in his headphones.

Also talking to the tuner today he said that these turbo are in their efficiency range at about 20psi+. But they are very touchy and 1-2 psi in the high teens makes a shit load of difference.

I really don't know where to start. I don't want to be running fuel additives all the time... I got sick of having to put toluene in all the time with my normal fuel, but it was much better than standard pump 95.

I mean, f**k, if shell got their ass in gear and released the Shell100 here (premium with 10% ethanol) I'd be laughing... Would be able to wind shitloads of timing into it.

I really am stuck.

Would I be able to make more power safely by taking a little bit of timing out and adding 1-2 psi of boost?

The tuner is very hesitant of putting more boost in..

finally had time to read this thread :)

good work by all accounts

makes sense, i dont see how the stock rb25 can be .04x a/r as the gtr twins are 0.42 a/r

stock turb a 33-t does 200 tops.

stock turb a GTR can get to near 300 So its believable easily.

That turbo is a GT30/TS04 , 7 blades and a .70ARR comp cover . It will be interesting to see how it goes particularly with the VG30 turbine housing .

Cheers  A .

Ya, i was surprised to see that Mafia's turbo uses a 7-blader S wheel as opposed to the GT series 6-blade wheel

I'm really curious as to why these horsepowerinabox/gcg style gt30's don't run the 6blade gt30 core with the .6 comp cover.

I'm thinking possibly GCG ran in to surge issues with the higher flowing 6blade gt30 comp?!?

I'm remembering back to GCG's 500hp bolt ons and the surge issues they had?!?

I dont think so, the 6-blade is the one you want, in the 500hp combo/6 blader is the banger setup that you want

You have surge problems with the BIG GT 6-blade wheel in the 600hp GT 30 variant only... i know because i had ever so slight problems. Going to the smaller comp wheel would have rid the problem, AND given better performance in the end after all the R&D

Bass Junky's wouldn't take any more than 14psi.. ping. :D

NEO runs more compression than non-NEO RB25. Thats why 14psi is limits :)

Drop the comp ratio... Thats really your only option.

You won't notice a drop of .5. Wind a little more boost in and see how it goes.

Thats what i think :)

Back it off a tad, tad more boost and see. You should be seeing 14psi around 4000rpm.

End of the day your fuel is limiting the setup, you know this as well as anyone

Maybe look @ the cost of freighting large drums. I know the tazzie boys ship down drums of Ultimate cause they only have 95 down there are aswell.

Initial cost is a whack but its probably not too much more expensive one would hope.

Bass Junky is not running a GT30, he has a GCG hi-flow with a VG30 ext housing.

I am also running the same turbo, with Tomei Poncams (256 duration[r33]) and head porting. Car made 270rwkw@15psi, on a new dyno dynamics dyno, tunning mode. Externally engine looks stock, apart from fuel reg (but that's also hard to spot).

My engine also started to ping higher in the rev range, this was solved by pulling timing out in that effected area only.

Mafia have you considered cams or even a descent head porting? This will definately release the true potential of the turbo. Honestly, with the fuel, i think that your car is not too bad, but when you have your mind set on a figure i guess you will feel disappointed.

All the best

Al

thanks guys. I was talking to a guy tonight at one of our test and tunes - he said to spend $700 on a good water methanol kit, and that will solve all of my fuel \ ping problems.

Then look at an electronic boost controller to fix the weird boost problems, he said he'd just stick a 15psi actuator on there to make it easier again..

This guy has a 11 second xr6t that he tunes himself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...