Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know much about the screamer dump pipes? How well they seal? I've heard they're reallllly leaky

many reports of them not sealing properly, and never sound as good as a true external gate.

also, it really is a pointless modification if only for the sound..

but it is your car so, your choice.

Alottttt of people running screamers and I haven't heard of anyone getting done for anything other than undue noise.. Even my old 25/30 with 4" turbo back with no mufflers just q cannon and screamer I didn't get done :-/

those shithouse dumps are just that, shithouse.

a better way would be to pull the turbo off, tack the internal flap shut and weld a pipe off the exhaust housing, and mount a gate off that, use a V band or 2 or 4 bolt gate no worries. absolute waste of time on a stock turbo but if its purely for sound, much better way to go, there is 1 or 2 decent chinese gates on the market, some of them are shockers.

I'd wait til you get your hands on a better turbo, even a high flow would be okay. then fiting a ex. gate off the exhuast housing wouldn't be quite as much as a waste of time, money and effort.

in other news I've organised a oven for saturday to paint all the bits for my datsun. prepped the front bar last yesterday, just need to prep the front guards and door, and spray them out. will sit the panels back on the car on sunday, except the bar, need to do a bit with motor so wont put the nose back on just yet. just about to go put wheels back on it so i can move the bugger about again.

this fine weather and daylight savings has boosted motivaton lol

What about a low mount with the fitting for a gate there already, and weld the internal gate shut on the stock turbo? Then I can get it high flowed later or go 3082r later. Really I just want the sound at the moment lol I miss gate :(

yeah you can run a ex gate provision off a stock manifold, but welding to cast is a little tricky, but can be done. there are a few places that could do it for you.

other option is to get a old HKS low mount cast manifold with 4 bolt gate provison. rareish, but work okay.

or get a custom manifold built with the gate provision built in. you'd be looking at around $850 min for something decent.

I have a stock manifold here, you could take that and get that modded, I would think you could do the whole thing for 2-300 bux with a cheap gate, just becareful which one you get.

the other end of the scale is to get say Ryan up at ulverstone (capel motorsports) to build you a manifold, he does fantastic work, on par with 6 boost. that will be around 850, then if you buy a genuine gate, say Tial 44 or 46 your going to be up for 1200ish by the time you've done gaskets studs and nuts etc.

I've got a stock manifold too if you want it.

DanialH in the other thread has a high mount external gate manifold for sale http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/374203-fs-brand-new-18x8-and-18x9-wheels-and-hks-2530-turbo/

I got AzCustom to make my high mount manifold and screamer and that was around the $1100 mark, sounds tough as nails though.

I've got a friend that got gate and screamer done on his stock cast manifold, cost like $120 for the guy to do it all, had the gate lying around lol. But was done properly (heating yhe manifold up to the right temp first and cooled down slowly). No eBay monsta high mounts then? :P

hypergear is starting to make his turbo's with dual gates, int and ext

you said you were thinking of a highflow, this will bolt on and use stock dump + have external gate

i had an ebay monsta high mount on my VL, i had to get it redrilled and it leaked like a siz but two gaskets and a whole heap of heatproof silicone and it was fiiiiiiine, well as fine as a bogan spec VL gets.

I've got a friend that got gate and screamer done on his stock cast manifold, cost like $120 for the guy to do it all, had the gate lying around lol. But was done properly (heating yhe manifold up to the right temp first and cooled down slowly). No eBay monsta high mounts then? :P

Who's your friend? i did one like that for someone a few months ago.

Well finally got Jacks parts painted yesterday so he can now get it all back together and hopefully leave me alone for a while lol. Anyway he wanted me to put the pic's up for him.

post-58307-0-53438100-1318125169_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-79724000-1318125238_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-34661800-1318125275_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-73539000-1318125200_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-29643300-1318125142_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-96868900-1318125104_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-31067700-1318125303_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-20663700-1318125338_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-53593800-1318125373_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its also worth mentioning that 30 years after it left the factory and god knows how many missed oil changes since, there is every possibility that one or more lifters are ticking because they are sticky/gummed up. To resolve that you need to pull the cams then pull each lifter, disassemble, clean, reassemble, soak in oil and re-install, and they should come up good as new.
    • What air filter are you running? Is it a panel filter in the stock air box, or a pod filter? Is the air filter the type that is oiled?   If you unplug the IACV, what rpm does the engine idle at?
    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
×
×
  • Create New...