Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for reference

17x9 +37 had about 3mm of clearance to stock struts

so i'd say you'd want a 15mm spacer on the rear (about 13mm more inset than the 17x9), maybe 20mm, but then you'll probably be poking out the guards

and as said before, you need the same tyres all round

so stretch 245's onto the 11's or run 265's on the 9's (latter is probably better)

Edited by pipster11

the different rotational speeds

ecu sees rears going faster/slower than the fronts and tries to help you out

Then its welcome to surge city!

Mine was doing when one of my rears was slightly more worn than the other

It's rolling diameter !!! Tyer wear would not be enough to trip it, currently I run staggered sets on all my stagea's but as long as you run close enough to the same rolling diameter you'll have no probs

Example 1 19x8.5 and 19x9 running 235 40 18s all round

Example 2 18x8 with 225 40 and 18x9 235 40

Example 3 18 x9.5 with 235 40 and 18x10 265 35

Plus I've had other sets on the car that have all worked out with no surging . Like I said just get close as with in rolling diameter and you will be right

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

  • Like 1

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

I found this - had 2 tyres replaced on the front for RWC and got some serious surging issues - chucked them on the back and its aok

tyres dont need to be the same just the rolliang diameter does :)

Ok so using the pirfect wheel specs for an Rs4S

18X9.5 +12 all round

what tire profile do you recomend?

i will most probably roll the guard lips for comfort, i just want it to tuck in nicely, obviously beinf 4wd the front and rears need to be the same.

might get a mate to fit a 235 on on, see what the stretch is like, still unsure of brand so it will depend.

coilovers arrived otday so gonna drop it and see what sort of cavity im looking at

ok i seem to be getting idfferent information from different wheel calculator sites, can some one help me out with some dimensions.

CII Rs4-S c34

it currently has R34gtt wheels fitted which i beleive are

17X7+40

as they are from a RWD R34 they sit quite far in the guards.

just fitted my BC coilovers and when going over bbumps when the wheel cambers in the rim touches the coilover thread.

static it is a few MM off.

its the rears which are touching on bumps, the fronts are fine.

i am going to use maby an 8-10mm spacer to solve the issue but the new wheels are on they way and im confused as to weather they will foul aswell.

they will be

18X9.5 +12

one site sais i will loose inner clearance and another sais it will gain so im not sure.

Edited by GH05T

The wheels should be stamped with their size somewhere inside them, they usually are. I'm guessing they're +30, not +40 offset. An offset of +40 is usually for FWD cars.

Are you using an online tyre calculator? There are plenty around if you do a Google search.

well they are R34 GTT stock wheels which from searching on SAU seem ot be +40

i am using online tire calculators which is where im getting the conflicting information from.

does anyone know of one which they would trust?

Edited by GH05T

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

had the exact same problem, but both my rears where bold and my front where 95%, and started surging aroudn the 90km/h mark, and the gauge had about 10% i removed the plug under the dash that brought the 4wd light on and limpt home (130km's)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Robertson was a Canadian inventor, and it absolutely reigns supreme here. 95% of our screws are Roberston. It's literally the only option you can buy off store shelves. What would it have lost out too? I believe it's also very popular in the US.  My reference to imperial was pointed to both NPT and BSP. 
    • No. BSP lost to the cultural/technical imperialism of living next to Trumpistan. Face it, Robertson screws were better and still pretty much lost out to the yank stuff. The Europeans hate the Brits and they don't use NPT. NPT is just as "imperial" as BSP is, being based on those useless inch thingos. Just done differently. 
    • I live in Quebec. Our license plate slogan is "Je me souviens" Translated is "We will remember" as a reminder to when England conquered us and that we must never forget what they did. Long story short, BSP is unheard of here due to being an English design. I'm surprised our nazi anti english government office the OQLF hasn't kicked in my door yet just talking about it, yet alone imperial anything.       
    • Thanks for that! I did a quick Google search looked up some of hydaulic stores and didn't see it listed on the website, I'll give them a ring. Also found out later that I can buy 2 oem bleeder bolts for 10 bux and come with the washer which I might do so I don't waste the money it costs in petrol to find 2 washers (already did that lol). The old copper washes look in good nick, I drove it after taking it off and putting it back on and didn't see any  Part number here for reference if anyone needs: 14053-42L0A  
×
×
  • Create New...