Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gary with your system you must run a cooler is this correct?? On the 3 or so  GTRs i intitially removed the hicas from I was simply blocking up the rear chamber, and the pumps would die I think due to over heating so I simply make sure I do a 2ws pump conversion at the same time, obviously its not needed if you run the pump the way you suggest!! Plus the 4ws pump is a mammout compared to the r33 pumps running a 2ws pumps looks better in the engine bay I think!!!

I agree, the R33 power steering pump is smaller, lighter and simpler. In an ideal world, it would be worth changing. But, in my opinion, the cost in both time and money is excessive for the benefit gained. Plus it makes it a far more complicated upgrade than simply swapping one hose around.

Most of the guys doing HICAS removal want a simple and quick elimination of the rear steering. Having to change the power steering pump, pulley, hoses and reservoir is a complication that might stop them from doing what is really necessary. ie; removing the HICAS itself.

Later on they can swap the pump etc over if they want, but it isn't necessary for them to get 99% of the benefit. The 1% from swapping the pump can be done later.

:mellow: cheers :(

is it a straight swap? or do you need a little bit of manufacturing to get it to fit?

You will need it's mounting bracket. The banjo fittings are at a different orientation to the 32's. And the pully is a 3-rib (the R32 is a 4-rib)

Anyone wants one, I have one from a Stagea. PM if you are interested.

R32GTR's and R32GTST's have a cooler on the power steering standard.  It is a simple loop of aluminium pipe, but it works.  On the race R32GTST I have used a standard Stagea auto transmission cooler as the power steering cooler.  Works a little better.

:D cheers :blink:

isnt that cooler (tube loop with fins) part of the hicas plumming? so it would cool the fluid running through the hicas. I know they share the same resevouir, but now that the hicas is gone, a lot of the heat will also be gone. So the ps wouldnt get that hot?

I too have a auto trans cooler which i might use instead of the stock cooler, only cause it looks nicer!

thanks

steve

isnt that cooler (tube loop with fins) part of the hicas plumming? so it would cool the fluid running through the hicas. I know they share the same resevouir, but now that the hicas is gone, a lot of the heat will also be gone. So the ps wouldnt get that hot?

I too have a auto trans cooler which i might use instead of the stock cooler, only cause it looks nicer!

thanks

steve

Hi Steve, I don't know how much total heat the HICAS adds. I reckon maybe none, as what heat it adds would be dissipated by the long run underneath the car in the steel pipework.

All I know is, the first GTR I removed the HICAS on, boiled its power steering fluid at a track day as it had no cooler. Ever since then I have run a cooler on all R32's and not had one problem.

:blink: Cheers :blink:

  • 3 weeks later...
with that being the case am i right then in saying that for a 32 GTR a tomei hicas lock kit is an easier/neater option?

I was going to go the lock bar route and like the idea of the weight saving, but i don't particularly want to fark around with the power steering too much. The tomei kit is a just 2 shims and a little module to cure the warning light/heavy steering problem.

I just used some metal washers to lock the rear rack on my R32 and then the sydneykid power steering mod to make sure the pump didnt poo itself. Worked a treat and cost like 50 cents.

Not sure why people go out and get Hicas lock bars when the factory bar with washers seems to work just fine.

SK - I'm pretty thick so sorry for asking this - which you have probably been asked a million times.. by looping the two lines that WERE going into my HICAS unit - is this running the fluid through the cooler? Cos I really have no idea where this cooler is... and this is how my current setup is going... just looping the lines..

SK - I'm pretty thick so sorry for asking this - which you have probably been asked a million times.. by looping the two lines that WERE going into my HICAS unit - is this running the fluid through the cooler? Cos I really have no idea where this cooler is... and this is how my current setup is going... just looping the lines..

Looping the lines is fine, the rear stage of the pump is just pumping the power steering fluid all the way down to the back solenoid, then back to the front solenoids and through the cooler.

The cooler itself is a simple loop of aluminium pipe, just in front of the radiator on the drivers side.

I just used some metal washers to lock the rear rack on my R32 and then the sydneykid power steering mod to make sure the pump didnt poo itself. Worked a treat and cost like 50 cents.

Not sure why people go out and get Hicas lock bars when the factory bar with washers seems to work just fine.

By doing that you are disconnecting the HICAS OK, but you are not saving the 20kgs or so of weight. That's the only additional advantage of removing the complete system.

:) cheers ;)

i have a question if hicas is there to help cornering why is it so many people want to remove it

about the only thing i have heard is the when taking tight lines the car tries to correct you, then you correct the car, then the car corrects .....

but what ever happened to slightly adjusting your driving style to work with hicas??

tell me if im wrong cause i dont really get it

i own a GTR and will look at doing some club level track days

so why is it better to remove hicas?

RellikZephyr

i have a question    if hicas is there to help cornering    why is it  so many people want to remove it

about the only thing i have heard is the  when taking tight lines the car tries to correct you, then you correct the car, then the car corrects .....

but what ever happened to slightly adjusting your driving style to work with hicas??

tell me if im wrong  cause i dont really get it

i own a GTR and will look at doing some club level track days

so why is it better to remove hicas?

RellikZephyr

Firsrly HICAS is not there to "help your cornering", HICAS is there to try and make the casr understeer at all times when sdriving at 9/10ths. Nissan designed it that way as it is safer for the Wallies. When they get into trouble the HICAS is supposed to make the car understeer, so instead of spinning off backwards they plough straight ahead. The ploughing action itself reduces the speed, so if they do go off they hit things at a slower speed and the front airbags/seatbelts work. If you spin off backwars/sideways, the airbags and seat belts have less chance of saving the Wally's ass.

Back to your question, you have got it......."when taking lines the car tries to correct you, then you correct the car, then the car corrects........." So instead of a nice smooth line around a corner at 10/10ths, it ends up being a sequence of jerks and corrections. If you are already at max G force, the jerks will cause the car to loose traction completely. So you have slide, correct, slide, correct, this is both detremental to lap times and confidence sapping.

Adjusting your driving style doesn't help, all it means is you have to go slower or suffer the momentary losses of traction. You can't control the car accurately with the throttle or the steering wheel when this sort of stuff is going on.

I have never ever seen a Skyline race car with functioning HICAS, once you have tried it you will understand why.

Hope that clarifies

:O cheers :)

  • 4 weeks later...
Gary - mind if you post a couple of pics of this looping you speak of?

Thanks :)

Which looping? There are three possiblities;

1. The loop of aluminium pipe that serves as the standard cooler?

2. The loop where the front solenoids used to be, to feed the fluid through the standard cooler?

3. The loop at the rear to bypass the rack?

I will have to take some pictures of my own car, I don't actually have any, either before or after HICAS removal.

:) cheers :)

As far as I can tell, the loop at the rear is just a bit of U shaped pipe - I can figure how that goes,

Moreso, when you pull out all the associated rear piping, where to hook the remaining rear stage piping up to the aluminium pipe.

So 2, and 3, above :)

Thanks again

what do people think of this solution???

its the tomei kit, but does it cause any problems with the pump in the long run?

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...thers_rset.html

As part of the Tomei kit install you disconnect a plug under the bonnet. This in addition to fitting the washers & the small electrical unit. Unfortunately I don't understand all the instructions (They are in Japanese) so don't know exactly what it is you are disconnecting...

Can anyone help?

what do people think of this solution???

its the tomei kit, but does it cause any problems with the pump in the long run?

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...thers_rset.html

Used to be very popular, locks the rams on the rear rack in their outwards position. So there is still power steering fluid circulation, but no steering action. The box plugs into the HICAS ECU and stops the dash light from coming on.

Quite effective, no long terms issues, they are just expensive for what they are. Plus they leave all the hardware in place (and even add a little bit) so no weight saving.

:D cheers :D

PS; make sure you get English instructions as they are tricky to fit, particularly the washers.

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...