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Can someone help me with my results please

First test flashed 25 but that's ok cos it was under cover?

My temps are: (pretty hot day today)

38.5

38.5

16

Changing between -24 to 4degrees

Any info would be great so I can get this sorted !

awesome info guys!

my a/c in my 32 had never worked, then i found this thread, ran the diagnostic and got 24 (intake/suction temp sensor). i was getting a reading of -30 deg for this sensor. put a 4.6k resistor across it and got a reading of about 11 deg and it now works!

im just wondering though, should i aim for a higher temp? because today i tried a 2k resistor and that gives me a reading of 25 deg (seems like a more relistic temp). just wondering if this temp sensor/reading regulates the a/c in any way. for example, does it regulate when the compressor turns on and off? or does the compressor stay on constantly when a/c is on?

cheers.

anyone got fault codes for an r33?

i followed the same method.. turned car on... held the off button... everything lit up.. pressed the heat up button a few times.. came up with 4 numbers... 2, 3, 41, 5..

When i turn my ac on i can hear it under the dash 'slurping' away.. also when i left the code '3' displayed it then changed to 30, then all i can hear is vents opening/closing - the fan then automatically starts low, then increasing to maximum... air doesnt get any colder..

any ideas what may be wrong?

  • 1 month later...

Hopefully one of you can offer some advice because the AC in my 32R is becomig at major pain in the ass.

So, the AC wasn't working when I bought the car (no surprise) and I've since set about fixing it. There is heaps of gas in the system, the clutchfan engages and the compressor works (according to my mechanic), I looked under the dash for a no-functional motor thingy but a previous owner had cable tied the two electricl joints that apparently play up. The climate control unit is functional but had no effect whatsoever on the air temp. After taking my car to my mechanic for a timing belt/water pump change I asked him to have a quick look.

He said that a fuse was blown and even when replaced the AC still wasn't cold. The funny thing is though when I drove home I had a toggle of some buttons and presto! icey air. This lasted 40mins until I smelt plastic smoke, freaked out and switch the stereo and AC off. The smoke quickly dissapeared. When I pulled the lower dash out at home I saw that a fuse (I presume the replaced one) had melted and the baord around it had heat warped as well.

Is there likely to be a short somewhere in the circuit or was the fuse type inappropriate (15 I believe)?

Any suggestions on what i should do next to diagnose/fix the problem? or should I bite the bullit and visit an auto-electrcian.

Thanks

If it helps i can upload a picture of the fried fuse

It wasnt working when i brought my R32. its an issue that frustrates me a bit especially on days like today... 32 outside 4000 deg inside sad.gif Ive read through this thread and ill give it a crack. Im just not sure if the compressor or the fans are working or if anything actually works. My unit comes on with A/C etc and my Apexi shows me when its on or off, but nothing else happens even the revs dont change so i duno whats up.

Is there any places in Melbourne anyone would recommend to get it re-gassed or just fixed lol if i dont have any luck from this thread.

thanks.gif

Hopefully one of you can offer some advice because the AC in my 32R is becomig at major pain in the ass.

So, the AC wasn't working when I bought the car (no surprise) and I've since set about fixing it. There is heaps of gas in the system, the clutchfan engages and the compressor works (according to my mechanic), I looked under the dash for a no-functional motor thingy but a previous owner had cable tied the two electricl joints that apparently play up. The climate control unit is functional but had no effect whatsoever on the air temp. After taking my car to my mechanic for a timing belt/water pump change I asked him to have a quick look.

He said that a fuse was blown and even when replaced the AC still wasn't cold. The funny thing is though when I drove home I had a toggle of some buttons and presto! icey air. This lasted 40mins until I smelt plastic smoke, freaked out and switch the stereo and AC off. The smoke quickly dissapeared. When I pulled the lower dash out at home I saw that a fuse (I presume the replaced one) had melted and the baord around it had heat warped as well.

Is there likely to be a short somewhere in the circuit or was the fuse type inappropriate (15 I believe)?

Any suggestions on what i should do next to diagnose/fix the problem? or should I bite the bullit and visit an auto-electrcian.

Thanks

If it helps i can upload a picture of the fried fuse

Same problem I had, my compressor was ceesing up there for it was added extra load on the wiring system. The fuse would blow, so we put in a larger fuse and the compressor started to smoke. Relpaced the compressor now its OK

It wasnt working when i brought my R32. its an issue that frustrates me a bit especially on days like today... 32 outside 4000 deg inside sad.gif Ive read through this thread and ill give it a crack. Im just not sure if the compressor or the fans are working or if anything actually works. My unit comes on with A/C etc and my Apexi shows me when its on or off, but nothing else happens even the revs dont change so i duno whats up.

Is there any places in Melbourne anyone would recommend to get it re-gassed or just fixed lol if i dont have any luck from this thread.

thanks.gif

give these guys a shot. Used them a couple of times

http://www.karair.com.au/

So the diagnosis results are 23 - Water temperature sensor & 25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

The temps were saying 27 30, 28 30 or something, it didnt look out of the normal.

Im assuming the temp sensor is the one at the bottom of the radiator?? as the other water temp sensor works well because the Apexi is connected to it. and surley it wouldnt matter if the sun sensor was working.

what to do huh.gif

So I played around with it again today, after my drive home I found out my heater doesn't work at all, it only blows outside air temp, not hot or cold no matter what I set the temp to neither A/C or normal fan, which is a bit of a bummer lol. Also the diagnosis said (under cover) flashed 25 so dis regard that, everything else was fine then the temp sensors said 26, 38, 37.5, 37. So I think all my sensors are working properly. Time to see the mechanics and get them to look at it then go to the A/C repair shop.

  • 1 month later...

my gtr ac was working but was not as good as it was 7 years ago when i got it converted to r134a soo took it to the auto sparky to test pressures all ok and pulling down to 8 deg in the air vent on the dash he said all seems good

but hot days you would feel hot. realised not much air flow out of the vents even when the fan is on full noise.

removed the glove box pulled out 3 screws from the blower and remove it, now you can reach into the right and feel the evaporater yep feels like its blocked with dirt! Used a 5mm air line with a 0.5mm jet in the end to spray water into the evaporater too clean it out [water drains out of the drain that goes out through the firewall] Now it has heaps of airflow and nice cold air. My gtr has 240000k on the clock

  • 1 month later...

Previous owner spent $1000 trying to fix the A/C shortly before selling the car yet it hasn't worked in the year that I've had it.

I have the 24 fault code and the -30 intake temperature, what kind of resistor do I need to ask for to make sure it fits this plug? Where do I go to get it? Jaycar?

  • 8 months later...

Does anyone know R32 gtr and gtst compressors are interchangeable?

My system in my gtst used to work but now the compressor is making a rattle sound when first started but soon goes back to normal sound after warmed up. However the coldness is not what it should be and I also discovered oil leaking from the back of the compressor. So I would assume the compressor needs rebuilding or I could try a second hand item, and here in lie the problem, there seems to be plenty of gtr compressors around but few gtst type.

Oh rebuilding costs about $600 so I would probably try a second hand unit first.

Cheers,

Mike.

  • 4 weeks later...

I have a similar problem with cold air changing to ambient temp air on my S2 R33 gtst, but air con lasts a while. All sensors say it is fine and temperatures being read are fine, but if it is a 35-40 degree day and I put the climate control on when driving it will blow cold for 5 min if on auto or full or up to 20 minutes if fan only on 1 or 2, but then revert to ambient temp air. I assume this is to do with a sensor being OK during diagnostic mode and then buggering up when actually being used.

Another thing I noticed and can't think of why is that the air stays cold for much longer if the car is idling, but if I take it for a drive it will go to warm quite a lot lot quicker. Again, I don't know if this is a sensor playing up. I've tried driving it around until it blows warm, then turning the car off and on and running diagnostics - still all looks normal (no faults, temps all ok).

I wonder if I can cheat the system by leaving the car on diagnostics - 42 (full cold) constantly while I'm driving around? Gonna give that a try today. Anyone got any thoughts?

Big Ups to this thread!

My aircon in my 32 has been out of action for 5 years so I decided to get it working. Luckily for me there were no leaks and everything appeared to be working fine, just needed a regas.

However, we noticed that my compressor was turning on and off irrationally and we could not get a consistant result.

Then I found this thread, ran the diagnostic, and found the suction temp (aka intake temp) was fluctuating wildly (-30 to 20 degrees etc). This would explain why the compressor was turning off at random times. Of course when that sensor starts reading a low temp, it would turn off as it doesn't think that it needs to cool the air!!! I should point out that during the diagnostic it blows cold air continuously when reading 41, so i know the compressor is working.

So going to pick up some resistors, hook one up that gives me a good temp and I am fairly confident that it will be working sweet. I will let you all know!

Thanks again to this awesome thread!!!

Edited by Douse

If I turn the a/c off I get ambient air, however when I turn the a/c on the air is warmer. When I ran the actuator check I could see the motor moving but when I change the temp it didn't move.

My refrigerant and intake temp are around 40, within a degree of eachother. Could the fact this is so high be due to the system needing regassed? Is there any way to check the refrigerant level?

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

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