Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mmmm just a small note..

I have HID in my R32..

Why not just modify a H1 HID kit into the projector?

What I did was carefully drill out the standard bulb adaptor holder thing and the H1 HID bulb went straight in and it clips in using OEM clips..

All done..

Just wanted to know why you decided to go this way..

Good work on your conversion..

Where did the PCB board come from? Usually stupid things like that are expensive at dick smith etc.

I got them from dick smith... think they were 10 bucks or so for a 15x20cm board or so...

Why not just modify a H1 HID kit into the projector? 

What I did was carefully drill out the standard bulb adaptor holder thing and the H1 HID bulb went straight in and it clips in using OEM clips..

All done..

Just wanted to know why you decided to go this way..

Good work on your conversion..

Because the cut-off line of a Euro projector is TASTY

this is the cut off of a left hand drive projector (taken from eBay)

see how there is a perfect straight line and no light leakage above the cut off?

sweet

DSC08264.JPG

Why not just modify a H1 HID kit into the projector? 

I have a HID kit also.... But what Ronin is doing is not installing a kit but a retrofit.

Retrofit is when you take the projector and bulb from (typically) an OEM and (typically) install it into your car's headlight assembly.

The advantage is that you get the projector that is designed to handle the xenon bulbs. Typically the halogen assembly and/or projector design differ from what's required by xenons and you end up with hot spots, glaring and fuzzy cut offs (and subsequent leakage as he said already).

My HID kit is ok. The cutoff is crisp, almost no hotspots and works well. Not all cars are like this though - it's usually acknowledged if you want to do xenons properly and your car isn't factory equipped, OEM or retrofit is the only way to go.

So Ronin.. How's it goin? More pics??

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

w00t! *eagerly awaits pics*

hey, quick question...

with painting the insides of the headlights black, does it affect the throw/dispersion of the light at all?

I mean, i'm quite happy with my headlights at the moment (have standard wattage narva +50% bulbs in there, and adjusted the lights so they shine up a bit higher... the lighting is phenomenal.. my low beams are like most cars high beams.. possibly even better), but the silver finish on them is a bit tatty, and i reckon it would look alright with black housings :thumbsup:

black housing won't make a difference to the headlight performance... look at the std new Holdens with projectors - they have black housings.

anyway, update pics:

New LED setup

Headlights0006.JPG

Headlights0007.JPG

Headlights0008.JPG

Attaching old bracket to new projector:

First I tacked on the bracket with "JB Weld" - a 'metal' epoxy

Headlights0004.JPG

See I had to cut the section of the old bracket between the two screw holes so that I can access the screw that holds the cut-off shield in place on the new projector bowl:

Headlights0003.JPG

Then I adjusted it to level (by eye, didn't have a spirit level, so will be pissed if it's fixable not within std height / tilt adjustment of the headlight) and let it set

After that I went around and secured the whole bracket with JB Weld. I'm told this stuff is tough as so I won't have any issues. I've used it before on other stuff and given the amount I put on, there is NO WAY the old projector bracket and the new projector bowl are ever going to part company - they're joined forever...

Headlights0009.JPG

Headlights0010.JPG

Tonight and over the next few days I'll prepare the chrome cover to be sprayed matte black, and attach the new parkers into the cover

:laugh: cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

I've been looking for JB Weld all over the place; where did you source it? This has reminded me to get on to retro fitting the E55 Hella Bi-Xenons I have. Unfortunately I think I will have to fab some new mounting plates as the E55s are bigger than the standard projectors.

Will be following your progress with interest now that I have found the thread :D

by Bi-Xenon i guess you're referring to both hi and low beam being Xenon?

i thought that Xenon for high beam wasn't worthwile as it's hard for the hi-beam to be instantly on? or is that not an issue anymore...

man, Bi-Xenon, i know the newer bimmers have em... but fark... that's gotta be bright..

can you Bi-Xenon stock OEM R34 Xenon assembly's? i haven't put in my Kaixen lo-beam Xenon's yet..

hey marcus :worship: i see you decided to have a bash at this yourself :D good to see!

Yes, bi as in high and low beam. They are out of an E55 Merc. You obviously need an assembly that's designed for both hi and low beam and I imagine there is no way to modify the OEM assembly replacing and using a retrofit. I haven't been following the 'xenon scene' lately so I don't know if there are any aftermarket hi/lo solutions.

Ronin 09: out of interest, who makes the assemblys out of the Accord?

lucien - got the JB Weld from Ebay... as far as I know I couldn't find it anywhere in Australia!

Not sure who the manufacturers of the Euro projectors are... will have a look for stampings but dont think there are any.

In other news - I melted my other chrome plastic surround... Idiot left it in the oven too long. Had to source another headlight (thanks 'twisted') and will pull that apart.

More shortly :thumbsup:

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...