Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just bought myself a 1993 r33 gts-t in what I thought was mint condition. It looked great, sounded sweet with the hegh flow cat and 3" cat back hks exhaust. It wasn't till I got it home that I found out the knob 2 owners ago had overboosted the standard turbo and melted the wheels. I had to pay a bucketload to get new steel wheels, new housing, and wastegate actuator and while I was at it I got it high flowed. Next came the dump pipe. It was at that stage I found a massive power loss at about 4500-6000 rpm. After exhaustive search on the net and lots of trial and error i found out the AFM was shot. Thats getting fixed now and I have run into my next dilemma, WHAT TO WASTE MY MONEY ON NEXT...

I know I need a fmic but need to know what is best and on the cheap having spent way too much already.

Is bar/plate better or tube/fin design. I also want to do the install myself as my mech "friend" has already taken about a month to get everything sorted (In total I have only driven the car for about 2 weeks and am sick of my POS ford laser).

Any suggestions would help.

My mods are:

High flowed steel wheel standard turbo

3" stainless dump pipe

High flow cat

3" HKS cat back exhaust

Turbosmart Boost controller (only running standard boost until afm fixed)

All the rest is standard atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99114-whats-the-best-cheap-fmic/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with the hybrid copy intercooler. Pick one of those up for approximately $170 delivered to your door step and then take your selection at a piping kit which would cost you a further $350 or so. Either that or look on Ebay for some of the packages they offer

i like these coolers and piping.. there hybird coolers.. custem made pipeing.. give them a call!

http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/intercoolers.html

Edited by DriftSquad

You had the turbo "highflowed", then fitted a decent dump and at that stage this power loss occured between 4500-6000rpm.

How positive are you that the cause is the AFM? Because it sounds like a textbook case of the ecus rich and retard strategy.

Did you try turning the boost down? Did it still happen?

Thanks for the info guys.

I am 100% positive it is the afm cuz the problem disappeared when I borrowed a mates s1 afm.

Boost is currently at standard.

I only noticed this problem after getting the turbo done because it was so badly screwed, especially the wastegate bleeding boost thanks to the busted actuator.

Gtr coolers are ridiculously overpriced for what they are imo. Just like every other gtr part. I mean, sure, it's proven that it's OK.

BUT why buy a gtr cooler for 250-400$ which could be a 15 year old POS when you can buy a 2nd hand apexi cooler with the 90degree return bend for like $350 (I've got one).

be careful, some cheap china kits wont fit in skylines.

I had one which had instructions to bend bits of the chassis to fit the piping. err no lol

I also have heard some horror stories like that. Dodgy kits that dont fit except if you cut and bend things are not my best choice. Heard of some guy who had to cut up his fan to make it fit. Not a good idea. Also is it worth getting a forward facing intake plenum or are they a waste of money?

Hopefully I will finally be getting my baby back today. I miss her so much even though she was almost as slow as my laser (I got beaten by a magna sports!! argh). Have to smoke my mate who owns an 88 supercharged mr2. shouldn't be too hard, hehe.

I would keep an eye out for better quality but second had kits, I got a HKS cooler plus piping for $600. Admittedly that was no cheaper than some of the hybrid copies but I was really patting myself on the back when I was able to fit it in around an hour due to the fact that every part was absouluteley mm perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...