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I'd say 70ft-lb would pull the threads out nicely. The R32 GT-R service manual states 29-40lb-ft as the correct torque for strut top nuts.

That is truly ridiculous...

Nah not even close - decent Evo 7 are averaging 19k landed and compiled, Evo 8MR around 27k.

With the recent price rise in GT-R's and the dwindling supply of clean vehicles, will more people be turning the to Evo for a 4WD Japanese sports car? I believe prices have gone beyond the budget of the average punter, with the BNR32 into the 30-40k range, BCNR33 25k+, and I won't even mention R34's. This is expensive for what you get in terms of performance, reliability and parts attainability. Of course you can't go past the heritage, looks and presence of a GT-R, but there are certainly better value choices. Will people in the market for a GT-R begin turning to Evo's due to their lower price and (arguably) better performance? Will there be a knock-on effect in which Evo prices begin to rise too? As someone in their 20's and saving for a house, there's no way I could justify a GT-R anymore, but an Evo seems like a reasonable compromise. Ugly though

What year GT-T was this?

Yea it's hanging on just fine, I used prepsol to get the plastic clean before applying it.

Haha I used the exact same sponge strip from Bunnings years ago for the exact same thing. Looks a lot better than that old brittle stuff.

This thread has comprehensive details of the procedure for running direct battery voltage to your pump: The pump must be mounted in the cradle at the same level as the factory pump, with the fuel strainer pointing forward IIRC. I have no issues with surge or starvation even below 1/4 tank.

That car has a Nismo cluster, meaning it almost certainly doesn't have the 51,000km shown. Glad to be proven wrong, however I wouldn't pay near 30k for that particular car.

Yea that's what I expected. I might try to cobble together an S15 or R34 helical if I can find one down the track. Cheers

So how are these on the street? I've been in a Kaaz 2 way equipped R34 and it was horrible in terms of noise and vibration. I'm looking at a GT or GT Pro. Is there a big improvement in handling over the VLSD?

Thanks Terry. I've seen that one but the lack of any information makes it hard to judge condition. QLD seems to be the best state for low price GT-R's though. I'd want to fly up to check chassis rails and for crash damage.

That's my point though. As a collectors item the GT-R makes sense, but for those who want a car just to drive (many of us) the GT-R is overpriced for what you get in terms of handling, reliability and attainability of parts. 5-10 years ago this may have not been the case, but it is now. Hopefully the bubble bursts and I will be able to justify one, but for now there are better options, unless you're looking at it as an investment.

I recently enquired with an importer about bringing over a grade 3.5 or 4 BNR33 with a budget of around $25,000. Apparently it would be difficult to find one in that condition for less than $28,000. Really, for people who just want a good handling Japanese sports car to drive the GT-R is no longer a economical option (was it ever?). Good condition Gts-t's have even gone up in price, but for someone just looking to drive the thing they make a lot more sense value wise. Of course I've always wanted a GT-R, but with these prices an Evo makes so much more sense. I'll keep my Gts-t and get an Evo 8 for the same price as one 32 or 33 GT-R.

Did the problem start after you installed the aftermarket steering boss? HICAS relies on a steering angle input to function correctly, if you've recently installed a steering boss which does is not compatible with HICAS it will cause the HICAS ECU to go into 'safe mode' which results in the heavy steering and warning light on the dash.

Got enough garage space for 3 GT-R's Terry?

Cheers for the response, much appreciated. It sounds like after all was said and done you have ended up in a good place career wise. I have always had a similar mindset of 'where to from here' and not being quite sure of what to pursue next. It sounds like persistence and dedication have paid off in your case. I'm happy to say that I was successful in my application, and will be starting my diesel technician apprenticeship in under 2 weeks.

Is anyone out there a mechanic or diesel technician? Some background: 25/M Uni graduate but lost interest in the field (business) and prefer working 'hands on'. I have a strong mechanical background, and already know my way around cars/bikes etc. General light vehicle mechanics interests me, but the poor wages and potential for being stuck in a dealership deters me from pursuing that field.
I'm not chasing money, but I don't want to invest 4 years into learning a trade only to be paid close to minimum wage. Diesel appeals mainly due to the higher demand for skilled tradesmen, and also the ability to specialise in hydraulics/earthmoving/mining equipment etc. Also having a business degree, I believe I could work my way up to a workshop manager/district manager further on in this career. Of the two apprenticeships I've applied for, I have gotten positive responses from both; one a truck dealership and workshop, the other a fleet maintenance role. I'm having trouble deciding which one to chose should I be offered a position. Does anyone have direct experience with this trade, or even some general career advice? Cheers

ps the current wave of thefts here in Melbourne is by 16yo junkies, not pros with tow trucks. Get an alarm.

lol how is saying someone should put an alarm in their car harsh. Saying shit like "I had an alarm bit it got stolen anyway" just discourages people from installing one, resulting in more thefts. And if it's installed correctly, the only way they will get it is by towing.

Ah, another Skyline without a proper alarm or immobiliser. When will people learn?

How much power did you make on e85 and what duty cycle?

Wheels on that black 33R?

My daily Great on fuel and goes most places. Having to pay 2x the Rego and Insurance SUCKS though

Silver 34 GT-R on Hoddle St yesterday morning with Sau stickers.