colourclassic

S3 R33 GT-R Seats - Immaculate Immaculate pair of Series 3 R33 GT-R Seats As you can see in the pictures, no tears, stains, rips or blemishes. Bolsters are all firm and supportive. Melbourne pick up only. $1000

BUMP May accept stock R33 rims as part payment.

SOLD

Forged rims so very strong and lightweight. 17x7.5 +35 and 17x8.5 +38 5x114.3 Fit over S and R chassis turbo brakes without spacers. High Disc. Perfect for track, street or as a spare set. Rims in excellent condition. Tyres are shredded but still hold air I think. $500

They don't scrub but the 235's are fairly stretched. 265 or 275 would definitely need rolled guards at minimum.

Work Emotion XD9 My wheels are for sale. 18x9+30 18x10+38 Brand new space blue powder coat. New Work Emotion stickers. Immaculate, zero rash. Kumho Ku36 225/40 Federal 595 235/40 $2000 Will throw in black Rays wheels nuts. Melbourne pickup only will not post. Don't contact me unless you are ready and willing to purchase. No I won't take $1500 for them.

Do the larger 6 and 8 piston BBK's work okay with the factory master cylinder and ABS? I guess with much larger front brakes the bias might be a bit more forward based? Sounds like a mechanical diff isn't what I want for now. I might go about either shimming my VLSD or getting an S15 diff and giving that a shot.

tbh I don't drive so hard to lift wheels on the street. my mates s15 had the helical/torsen diff and for all its disadvantages, it was superior to a viscous LSD in all circumstances. another mate has a 34 with a kaaz 2 way and it was hell to drive on the street, only good for track. i guess a lightly preloaded 1.5 way would be a compromise between the two.

Yes, but with both wheels on the ground they offer good positive differential action without any of the clunkiness of a mechanical diff. On the street the only time the wheels would come off the ground is entering steep driveways, which the car is too low for anyway.

It's got new brake fluid and QFM HPX pads at the moment. The brakes work okay I suppose but I'd like a bit more initial bite and less fade. The diff definitely needs to be done, but I'm weary of using a mechanical lsd on a street car. Wish there was a drop in torsen for R33's.

Burning $1000 - Brakes or Diff? As title states, I have roughly $1000 to spend on my r33 gtst. It's currently my daily which I've tracked a few times. Has 300kw and dialed in suspension; brakes and diff are pretty much the only things still stock. Option A - Nismo GT Pro 1.5 Way LSD. Good for track and will stop the singling, but possibly shit for a daily driven car. Option B - S15 Torsen Diff and half shafts. Good street diff but requires use of weaker 6 bolt half shafts. Option C - 350z Brake upgrade. 350z front calipers/rotors and upgraded rear rotors and pads. But enough of an improvement over stock? Any of the above options should cost around the 1k mark (s15 diff may cost less), give or take. Which of the above would be the most worthwhile/best bang for buck? Open to opinions/suggestions.

That is absolute robbery. I paid $550 for mine in VIC and thought that was steep for something which does nothing. No yearly subscription like in NSW either..

I've seen this first hand on an immaculate S14 - no lie the whole subframe was offset 15mm to the left! Always wondered where the displacement came from, subframe or otherwise.

Trust me, a shit handling car with twice the power is where the fun is Kind of like the first gen Kawasaki ZX10R's which were ludicrously over-powered, short wheelbase and extremely light, with no ABS or TCS. Kill you if you blink kind of bikes. If you wanted something that handled well you bought a Fireblade.

Why would you need internals for 270kw? These can handle far more power unopened.

A brand called 'glassylite' offer a restoration kit which includes a UV resistant coating, and it seems to have good reviews. I haven't tried it yet but will soon.

300kw on stock tyres and suspension is mad fun.

18x8.5 +30 is a pretty conservative offset (conservative compared to what some people put on anyway). Before you roll guards try having a look at where it rubs on the liner and use a heat gun to heat and mould the area to clear. I have 18x9 +27 and unrolled guards and it doesn't really scrub once doing the above.

Who still daily's their Skyline? Who here uses their R31/32/33/34 as their sole form of transport? With the price and (lack) of availability going through the roof, as well as theft concerns; is anyone still using their car on a daily basis for work/shopping/chores etc. Up until now I've had two cars - a Vitara runabout and the Skyline as a toy, but with a new job and private car park where I can keep an eye on the car, I might consider only having 1 car from now on. So what do you drive and is it a workhorse or a weekender only.

Some of your must fap into your 'stock airbox' judging by the responses. I'd glady sacrifice 5kw for more turbo harmonics. Shame yours isn't turbo though.

Good to see someone taking it to the next level. This is off it's head!

Have a look at this beauty: http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Nissan-Skyline-1989/OAG-AD-13663822/?Cr=4 A little bit rusty but a bargain at 8k

From what I've researched, evo 8+ can do flex fuel on their stock ecu!?

How tight do you typically do up your hose clamps? I tighten all intake plumbing using a socket driver rather than a ratchet, this gives more feel and less chance of over-tightening. Comparing your 1st and 2nd photos, the worm drive of the hose clamp is in roughly the same spot as the bend in the intake pipe. That is usually where the most pressure is too. It's possible it sealed until a few heat cycles and then let go, leading to an air leak.

Damn, my bad.