admS15

I also fitted some Cusco tension rods. These where GTR items, I had them modded by the machinist at work. Needed to trim around 6mm of material off each crush tube end to accommodate for the gtst narrower bush width. The threads on the other end where the nuts go were extended to the bottom also. I also had 2mm machined off the lower lock nut to make sure I can get the castor angle I want. Lol. After all this they fit fine[emoji3] I had these spacers machined up, so if ever decide to sell these they can still be used on a GTR. Wider market. And fitted up Plenty of castor[emoji3] And a little neg camber.

Managed to fit a hicas lockbar the other day. Get out. Lol. Weight reduction[emoji3] I know a hicas eliminator would have been better but this only took half an hour to do and since the ball joints are still in pretty good shape I went with this gktech lock bar.

You could always throw some bigger tyres on the front. Problem solved[emoji12]

I just removed mine yesterday too. It felt weird on the first drive but feels fine now. Obviously needs a wheel alignment as its towing toward the right but steering feel is good. I would suggest you take it for another drive and re assess it after that.

Finally got around to getting these castor arms modified. Had some material shaved off each side to make the width 69.5mm. The studs where removed and threaded almost to the bottom, then refitted. I also had some metal bushes/washers made up. This way, if I ever want to sell them, they will still be able to be used for a GTR or for other rwd Nissans. Just have to fit them now. Here is some pics of how they came up.

That is a very nice car. I like the way he's gone about building it. But I'd rather build than buy. Also, its got a homo auto in it. May as well buy a Honda instead[emoji38]

Thanks DRDOSE and thanks Grant for the Cusco goodies. P.s Johnny, I just bought those plates in Vic. Only kidding. Lol[emoji3]

Wants AC, Gets new engine to fit it. I like the way you think[emoji106]

Konichuwa, oregato. That's all I got. Soz[emoji3]

Small update. Fitted some Cusco front camber arms today. Set them for max neg, should be around -2.5°. I've had these for a long time but couldn't find a how to article. Turns out I spent more time looking for fitting instructions than how long it actually took to fit. Was done in under an hour. 3 bolts each side and boom, done. I've got some Cusco tension rods to fit also and there is some whiteline rear camber arms and hicas lock bar in the mail. Will hopefully fit these during the week and get an alignment on Saturday. Some pics of the install.

I've also got a slight response issue. Its hitting full boost around 3700. It used to be all in by 3450. Still trying to track down the issue but haven't had much time to spend on it. This was my previous boost graph from last year before any problems.

Hey Mafia, I posted a link but for some reason its not showing on the app. Only works on webview. Cheers.

Here you go

A r33 high flow will get you there close to maxed out on 98, on e85 it will make 400+rwhp. A r34 high flow will get you a bit further. I'm not sure what effect being in a patrol will have with your heavy flywheel and whatever diff gears they have. Hopefully someone who has done a similar conversion can chime in on this. Also the mambatek gtx turbos can't be compared to a genuine Garrett gtx turbo. I've seen a result for a gtx3076 mamba on a rb25 neo and from what I remember, it was very laggy and still fell short of a Garrett in the top end. Got to compare apples with apples and mamba results are far and few between.

If I had to replace an engine. This would be my preferred option too.

Fair enough. Speak to hypergear, he has developed plenty of turbos for the rb for you to choose from. If you do end up going mambatek, post up the results. Cheers.

For 350rwhp/260rwkw, my advice would be to get your stock turbo high flowed by hypergear. That turbo will do 260rwkw and full boost b4 3500rpm. Not too sure about the mambatek. Not many results around with those. I know they sound attractive but you will be a bit of a guinea pig.

There is a set of nismo 740's in the for sale section

Hypergear 21u high flow 2015 spec @ 19psi on United E85, 312rwkw, 474nm -nismo 740cc injectors -nismo 3inch cat back -blitz LM return flow cooler -adaptronic ecu - E85/Flex goodness -Castrol edge 10/60 oil No failure, only 1 month of running so far.

I'm also in the, if it ain't broke don't fix it school of thought. Why spend big $ on something that "may" happen. RB25's aren't exactly rare and there's no premium a week before race wars either:). Plenty of guys out there pushing decent power and tracking stock RB25's without issue. Obviously drift guys sitting on the limiter constantly are more likely to have problems. Back on topic the OP asked about. A 25 will be better in every way as a daily and 250rwkw will be childs play for it. The low end torque and response being the major difference. Keep the Nissan in and keep smiling[emoji106]

Try skyline spares. I've bought a couple of sets from them in the past. Where good condition and cheap. Try your luck and give em a call.

If the rad cap is stuffed, it will let water out of the rad and into the overflow bottle which will then spew out onto the ground once full.

I once had a bad starter motor that would still slowly crank but was drawing so much power that the biggest 4x4 battery known to man couldn't turn it over quick enough. Your car stalling at the lights would lead me to be looking for an issue elsewhere but it could be coincidence that the starter is playing up at the same time. Sorry I couldn't be of better assistance.

You have pm

If the car ran fine then all of a sudden it started playing up, it isn't tune related. I'm with cowboy and suggesting a sensor. Probably coolant sensor, I believe there is a couple of them, not 100% sure. Do you have a hand controller for the power fc? If you do, you could check what the sensors are reading and if anything looks suspect.