niZmO_Man

You want BCPR6ES (without the -11), they are 0.8mm pre-gapped. Or gap your current plugs down to 0.7-0.8mm. Also do the AFM solder fix. Check your timing. Look at getting new coil packs (Yellowjackets are cheap and good enough). Is your car 100% standard (engine wise)?

Some pods can collapse (sucked inwards).

Did you check the clutch line?

Thanks mate. Good buy.

The existing glue should be enough to seal it up. Just heat, clamp together and wait for it to cool. You can use Butyl rubber glue (they come in strips/rolls). Post R32 are plastic lens I believe. R32 and R31 are glass.

Replace it with something better.

How about some pictures of the actual wheels? What brand is it? You posted a stock picture of Advan RS, are you selling those exact wheels?

Costs more than twice as much as I paid for my R31.

Heat the glue where the plastic meets the housing, either with a heat gun or stick it in the oven for a few minutes @ 120°C. Once the glue becomes tacky, you can easily pry off the lens.

Air Flow Meters

Hankook RS-3 and Potenza RE-11 are rated at 200 UTQG. Would you say they're better than the Federals? I read somewhere that the NT-05 is 'better' than RS-R, never driven on any tyres mentioned so I can't say, but fatz doesn't like the Federals. How often will you be driving the car? The NT-05 if obviously not as good in the rain and won't last as long as the INVO, but with the extra contact patch, will grip better in the dry. The Corvette people love them. Daily driving = INVO Weekend car = NT-05 I'll be looking at putting NT-05 on once my current tyres are gone. Falken FK452 doesn't cut it any more for me .

Phat.

Better off taking it to someone that knows Nissan cars. Unigroup sound to be good. You also have CRD. I never used a workshop so I can't recommend. Check under your parcel shelf in the boot, driver's side. If there's a computer still there, plug in the bigger plug on the right. That keeps the power steering thing active but doesn't activate the HICAS crap. Assuming you have everything else in place besides the lock bar. I reckon 330mm is a good size. Wouldn't go bigger than 350mm, you're not driving a bus .

A few centrecap sets are usually for sale on yahoo auctions japan. You can use importmonster to get them here.

Custom 3-piece wheels? http://www.workwheelsusa.com/product.php?category=29&wheel=85

18x10+20 (Nismo LMGT1).

If only Nissan did this :(

I'm with LSV, saved ~$800/year switching from NRMA (mods listed). No experience with claims so hopefully they're good if I need to in the future.

Yeah I had to wait two years. Unfortunately, you don't have much choice. Tried NRMA? Can you can get it under a parent's name (have yourself listed as driver to avoid the big excess if you can)?

Stick to your roots bogans

Yes. Unless the wheels have dish. As mentioned, it's all in the spoke design.

http://www.ppi-ats.com/LSD/LSD_basics.html http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/img/lsd-1.jpg

Generally, leads to harsher ride, but matched dampers to spring is better than having choppy suspension (over or under dampened). What he said.

Tyre size 265/35/18: Rears required rolling (approx. -1.5° camber). Front, rounded sidewall design (Potenza TS02), -2° camber, just fitted without rolling. Changed tyres to a squarer sidewall (Falken FK452) and rolling was required.

If your power steering/HICAS is working correctly, the low speed steering is light enough to park with one hand. Look for second hand, good condition MOMO, Nardi, or standard wheel. I have a Nardi that needs retrimming for cheap, PM me if interested.