niZmO_Man

Offset? I'm guessing +35

Go to another one, or park somewhere else and walk.

I've "lipped" (read bashed with a hammer) the passenger side front guard on my car, I think I left the screw off. Doesn't touch.

I have the Dunlop Sport Maxx all round on my R31 (same sizes as yours), can't even spin the wheels lol. I can't comment on how good they are compared to KU31 as I haven't driven the car properly yet (no rego atm), but initial driving around roundabouts in the rain is good (a lot better than SS 595). Mind you it has a standard RB30E and a somewhat working LSD. I wish they (Tempe) had 265/35/18 so I could stick them on my GT-R and see how they really perform. I do believe they are standard on the FPV Falcons so they should perform alright. Reading the mixed reviews online about the Toyos, it sort of put me off. Honestly, if I were to get new tyres again for the R31, I'd get the Nitto INVO.

Google 'holford bm57'

That's how he buys cars as well. I'm not complaining .

Do the police have some sort of fraud unit set up (I have no idea)? Perhaps that's another avenue you can look at. You have the original doc, his fake one, and this forum. Plenty of incriminating evidence in my opinion. Ask for full refund, nothing less nothing more.

Width? It's surprisingly easy to do, just need a heat gun from Bunnings and that ebay roller from Adelaide.

Try a 15W-50 oil as mentioned and BCPR6ES spark plugs (already gapped to 0.8mm so you don't have to gap them). 400km per "tank", I'll assume 60L and non-highway driving, sounds about right for a modified turbo car. Re-tune might give you better mileage, but those cams won't.

Not surprising. After getting your money back, report the dealer license?

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?61128-FS-2008-MY08-335i-e92-M-sport&p=1497298 Cheap

RE: tyres I've had 595SS and N8000 on my cars. Not worth it when you can get Dunlop SP SPort Maxx for roughly the same price! KU31 > 595SS N8000 ≈ KU31 in terms of grip but wears out a lot quicker (almost half the life compared to KU31) I wouldn't even bother with N3000. Ask these guys for some INVO in your sizes delivered to you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/435879-nitto-specials-australias-largest-nitto-dealer/ It is better to fit new tyres then have your car aligned by a reputable shop (get recommendations from the QLD people), after you have replaced the worn suspension bits.

What oil weight do you run? I wouldn't risk my RB26 with Magnatec; I use Penrite SIN/Racing/Premium oils. Search for the AFM solder fix (in DIY section I think). New coilpacks helps, make sure you chuck new spark plugs in as well (BCPR6ES-11, since you have new coils, no need to use 0.8mm gapped plugs). Fix all intake leaks. My car doesn't use any oil, running off the actuators (~12psi) with standard turbos/ECU/injetors. 5L goes in, 10,000km later 5L comes out. Odo shows 161k km but who knows how old the engine/car really is.

Throw some words like Department of Fair Trading around when trying to get back the deposit or dropping the final price. Not sure which department would investigate his dealings and possibly suspend/cancel his dealer license.

Let me know if you can't find one locally. I can ship mine from Sydney.

Paint the arms black

That's because the sidewall is at a 45° angle

Looks great! I need to refurb my LMGT1s .

Yeah man, try to drop at least $5k. Seems like a lot, but replacing/rebuilding the engine (including labour) will cost around that much, if not more. Who know what else might break or needs replacing. You should have mentioned that you found out about the dealer after putting the deposit down, that way we wouldn't bash you Other than that, the car does look in pretty good shape. Do you have any pictures of the under body? Look out for chassis rails and condition of the suspension, bushes, arms, etc. Looks like the car was tracked (worn after market steering wheel and radiator). Driver's seat and steering wheel can be replaced so it appears to be a low km car.

This, then send the apprentice to Sydney once he/she is trained up.

A1RM is a heavy street/light track pad. If you don't drive your car often then use them, they work fine when cold but get better once they're warm. I've used HPX on my GT-R as a daily pad and it's great. Less dusty than the A1RM as well. In saying that, I wouldn't use less than A1RM in my GT-R, need that fade resistance on downhill roads. Resma is apparently a bit better than HPX so that should be the go if you daily your car. You're in QLD so buy one off GSL Rally/Brakes direct (located in Brisbane), should come next day

▲ Unfortunately, ▼ So he already knows they are dodgy, but got them to bring in a car anyway.

Wat? I see white trim pieces.

Perhaps the water pump was changed with the radiator. Might be an N1 pump or something? Or could be something more dodgy/sinister.

Location?