niZmO_Man

And probably had a harder life.

Ain't nobody got time fo dat.

Guys I'm pretty sure it takes both 10mm and 12mm, I have two of the black ones!

It says 17x9 in the first post.

If you have had multiple eye surgeries and want to see better at night, you'd stay away from blue bulbs. Wondered why OEM is 4300K and fog lights are yellow (3000K or lower)? That's my R32 with retrofitted projectors and the Philips D2S 4300K bulb (glare and dark streaks caused by the standard housing's front lens). I've had 6000K bulbs before (was sent the wrong bulbs) and quickly changed back to halogen (on my R31, haven't retrofitted it yet). 4300K is A LOT better for seeing at night, especially when it rains. Don't believe me? Try it for yourself (I'm sure you can find cheap ebay bulbs if you don't want to spend $200). Perhaps you should do some more research on colour temperature vs light output at a specific power output. Of course, 6000K does 'look' more cool (pun intended), especially next to your blueish white LED park lights. Just because it looks whiter to you doesn't mean it's brighter, but whatever makes you happy. Another thing I found is cheap eBay bulbs vary quite a bit with colour temperatures. I had 2 pairs of ebay 4300K bulbs and every single bulb was a slightly different colour. Bought genuine Philips bulbs (99% of eBay ones are fake) and never looked back. OP, if you have the ballasts mounted on underneath (sounds like you do have the OEM stuff), then simply splash out the cash for some Philips/Osram bulbs. I believe Osram do a 'Cool Blue Intense' in D2R, which is 5000K rated to give you that white with a touch of blue light (Standard on the Merc S-class apparently). Oh BTW, the Philips bulbs colour shifts into the 5000K territory with age.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/xenon-vision-d2r-85126-single That's a proper bulb. Anything higher than 5000K, make sure you buy lots of neon lights to put throughout the car, and get a full boot install and nitro purge through your bonnet.

Nope

What's your budget?

Lol

For cities/built up areas, the solution is simply getting the bikes off the roads, giving them their own lanes. Don't believe me? Go visit Amsterdam. While it is sometimes a pain to drive in the city with bike riders literally everywhere, it is way more safe to do that over there than here. They have low powered scooters on those lanes as well. Problem is that it's far too late for NSW to do anything about it, the infrastructure is already in place, poorly planned and badly inadequate. Combined with half the drivers on the roads being undereducated/trained in driving, it will always be a lose lose situation. Then you throw in the fkwits and it's game over. The people doing the right thing will lose out in the end. Helmets having contact info is a common sense thing really, would be good to have a registration type thing to make identifying easier. All costs money though, more opportunity for a few to make money off the government.

Amayama RHDJapan

I figured he was referring to the Internet joke about some kid who posted about the XBox 360.

Bump

Right rear wheels speed sensor? Coolant reservoir cap?

Asked fatz?

lel

Volk wheels usually have lots of brake clearance so I don't think you'll have an issue.

Wow that's an insane amount of changes, no wonder they were so expensive to manufacture.

Haha now OP will ask "which one should I get" . Thanks for the good reply. Amayama I've never personally dealt with, but I know a few people who bought stuff from them and they had no issues.

Across the whole car lol. How do the volts look when this problem occurs? Maybe CAS? When AFMs go they usually go slowly and the car starts to run rough, but not want to stall (my experience anyway). I have an issue where there's a huge current draw from what seems like the ATTESA relay in the back of the car. It's tied in with this weird ATTESA/HICAS 'kick' I have (no idea what's making the dodgy loads). Recently it started getting worse, sometimes (rarely) the car would cut out for a split second when taking off (due to the voltage drop, most likely not enough energy for the ignition circuits). Your issue could be totally something else. Food for thought though.

Can make a cool F&F style AFP/equiv. Japanese department takedown movie about this.

Voltage drop?

Hi All, I'm after: - Right side rear wheel speed sensor (R32 GT-R), my ATTESA computer is complaining about it. Must be in good working condition. - Coolant reservoir cap (the yellow cap), I managed to lose my one. Located in Sydney, but as these are small items, so happy to pay for postage. PM me.

I think you can set default zoom in Chrome. Not sure on Firefox, but there's probably an extension for that.

Not being a dick, but wondering what data you have to make this claim. How long have you had yours? How much boost/power are you running in what engine? I've read quite a few opinions about splitfires, yellowjackets and OEM. I run yellow jackets on a standard RB26 and have no issues (of course it won't, it's running standard boost). People have yellow jackets fail, people haven't had any issues with them. People had splitfires fail and went OEM, yet other says they are great.