Dose Pipe Sutututu

You're making 27psi by 4200rpm, savage! Meanwhile I'm making 14psi lol. Very fun street setup, I bet the tyres want to turn to butter each time you cycle through the gears. I hope you have a proper LSD at the back, i.e. not the factory centre. Proof twin scroll is worth the effort/cost.

The first part yes, the latter not really. If you do leave it at a shop, you'll need to make the changes via NSP. Happy to disclose how it's set up in private 😎

Put $60k aside lol

You layer this with a MAP dimension, you don't just purely use alpha-N.

Things have changed over the years since the PS2000 / Platinum Pro days. When Andy from Adaptronic took over the technical department of Haltech it went from meh to great (yes there were initially hiccups but so negligible in the scheme of things).

The radium thing is sexual.

You could do it underneath the car (I personally don't like this ideal). Mine is in the boot, but it's also on the pressure side from the main tank to the surge tank.

Will be keen to know how it holds up

A modern aftermarket ECU allows an immobiliser to be set up, albeit it's not specifically labelled as that, if you know what you're doing and add in enough conditions it acts as one.

And why is that? For the average car enthusiast, Haltech's GUI is much more user friendly and easier to navigate. Link's GUI is not, not to mention when you try and set your tuning panel and move gauges/tables around the rendering goes all fked. Also, much easier to layer additional dimensions on a Haltech than a Link. Overall Link is a tiny bit more powerful in terms of motorsport features, less rigidity with the CANbus stuff however the GUI sucks.

Have you given it any abuse? I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days? That's the testing I would like to hear about.

Put the FPR, after the fuel rail but before the Y split. If not, fuel will find the path of least resistance and bypass the FPR. Another option is, new 8AN feed, then use both the original feed/return as dual return (that's what I did).

The quality of car enthusiasts these days, need I say more?

Do both sides the same, and yes parallel the ethanol sensor.

Depending on conversion rates and when you factor in Australian David Jones pricing on fabrication these days, this kit (bolt on affair, zero fab) nearly seems worth every dollar. https://www.spectrummotorsportssolutions.com/products/copy-of-gt-r-rb26-single-turbocharger-kit Their disclaimer: **Please note - While this kit includes everything needed to convert to Single Turbo without additional Fabrication, Professional installation is suggested. The PS reservoir will need to be moved from the stock location, however everything else fits R32/33/34 GTR w/ OEM AC and Power Steering Pump**.

Common theme, also FYP

And that alone was a huge improvement to single merge collector. Those early "experts", used to grind down the divider for "flow" and lost response.

That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together

Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.

You are correct, the earlier the torque, the earlier things snap

What kind of power delivery are you after? If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun. I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred. Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs....

No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit. However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter. Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes). If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.

Change the subframe bushes, transforms the car.

Nek minnit the $60K I said earlier doesn't seem too far off the mark.

I will need to dig up Nistune maps and see how they look.