Dose Pipe Sutututu

Correct, sports cars are just a passion project, especially ones that are within reach/affordable for the slightly above average person, e.g. self combusting GR Corolla or GR Yaris. Nissan and Honda have a long journey ahead before they start with any passion projects. Honda, as of late isn't doing itself any favours with heaps of recalls and cars being delivered with tons of defects. My mate recently just got into a legal dispute with one of the dealers regarding his brand new CR-V. Ended to with a full refund, went down the road, orders a brand new Rav 4 hybrid and couldn't have been happier (when compared to the Lemon CR-V).

Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either. Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated. Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.

Duncan would say yes, nearly everyone else here would say no.

It is plug and play, load up the base map and off you go. Throw the stock MAF(s) into the bin and run an intake manifold vacuum/boost reference to the ECU. Preferably to run it to an external MAP sensor. Get a Haltech CANbus wideband.

Call it $60k, to factor in a basic rebuild too. Oil pump will go bang, and/or head will shit a shim and many sads. Just build the motor at the same time as upgrading the turbo. Nitto oil pump, big ass sump, head to sump vent/drain, fix up all the flaws.

Don't forgot to factor in the boring stuff too, like fuel system, electronics pack, clutch, etc.

I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.

Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....

Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.

Just get a Haltech CAN wideband, no need to wire any delay circuits, or relay, etc. Since I've moved to a Haltech CANbus wideband, I have not replaced a single sensor for over 5 years (if not longer, can't remember when moved to Haltach).

What oil weight are you using?

Now they're bang your wallet

Buying another R33 soon?

Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.

RX7 is better for audio set ups, as you can really hide the subwoofers and also make them sound great with superpositioning strategies. Not to mention, it's a family car. You can take your kids in it (although I wouldn't). NSX is meh.

Needs more Samsonas or ZF8HP, modern twin scroll turbo setup, big dose.

Yes

This sounds beaut

CHOP IDLE TOONS

*waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.

A bit of data is always good, beats the Facebook experts with their opinions Although the kWs aren't anywhere near what you are after, it should give you a good indication. I have Bosch 1480cc injectors, often called 1650cc (only when run at 4bar). I run mine at 3bar base so I don't thrash the fuel system. Up top, making 437kW with boost dropping, injector duty is at 69% on E80 (might have had some residual 98RON in there)

Correct And whatever you do, don't use an oil pump gear, especially the one that starts with the same letter as Santa and the last letter ends with the same first letter as Lagoon. Get a proper oil pump, like a Nitto, Tomei, etc. and make sure you invest in a big fk off sump. Won't go into too much detail, but I am sure it caused my previous built motor to go bang.

Both NEOs I bought had short oil pump drives on them, even though internet legend has it they introduced longer collars on them. However, it's true NEO motors used N1 sized oil pump gears and not the same ones found in the R33 RB25 motor. Block wise, NEO has the front head VCT drained blocked off, but you can easily remove that.

Still fast enough to have fun (kinda). Time for a modern turbo with a divided turbine housing and a proper twin scroll manifold. I think 400-450kW is a great place to be, provided it's all in before 4500 rpm.

Can we unpin a bunch of dead / irrelevant threads from: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/8-engines-forced-induction/ New players at home will scroll and think this forum is dead.