Dose Pipe Sutututu

Rotor wear looks interesting, sure you've got the right pads? Gearbox oil, I would personally stay away from Redline shock proof, even the light weight stuff. I learnt the hard way and screwed up my synchros in my box. It happily grinds 3rd 4th 5th now.

HP is relative to the AFM, however using those HPX ones inside of a 3" pipe will give you the resolution needed. Just need to be smart with the TP Load scaler I love Nistune, especially with the feature pack. Launch and flex support, albeit I've yet to setup a car with the flex support on it. Should have one of the Nissan Silvia boys doing it in a few months.

hypertune stuff cost more than his car LOL

too exxy brah

you you need plazmaman intercooler kit?

Twin GT-RS turbos will be mint.

Sell your car, buy a turbo car spend money and time (that was saved for the turbo conversion on the N/A) and make the turbo car faster. Adding a stock RB25DET turbo to a RB25DE Skyline to be still slower than a stock Golf GTi, heck even a Golf GTD is not worth the effort, time, money.

or somehow you're introducing foreign air somehow

LSX is a pretty nice crate motor.. just slap on a cam and that's an easy 400kW + in NA form

2x things that come to mind.. especially with our aging old cars. 1. That rubber hose that goes to the aux air control unit, it comes off the cross over/J-pipe.. those tend to break with age 2. PCV playing silly buggers try blocking both of them and see what is going on.

Chasing usable power band, twin scroll single everyday

Twins are gaids, only really works on a V6 or V8 or so when you have separate plenum a for the group of cylinders that are huffing into the turbo. Twin scroll is where it is at, less restriction better efficiency and less piping and all the other bullshit associated with twins. Look at Piggaz I told him over 6 years ago (not kidding) and look at him now. He's woken up to reality

If you're going to waste all that time dicking around to make a measly sub 200kW, you might as well do an LS swap.

10 points right there, time for some chap laps! Remember to slightly hold the brakes down for maximum dose

get longer FMIC piping LOL... add additional longer sections for no reason

Smaller pipe, with more bends will dose hard

Sell car, buy GTt Or motor out, bin, NEO DET motor in.

dose scares off Hondas

$20 more and I'll throw in that wooden stool that I use for photoshoots for most of my car parts, guaranteed to make bitches wet and soak their panties and your R33 GT-R passenger seat in your GTS-t with ROTA GRIDS.. fuuuuuarkkkkkkkkkkkkk

Errbody loves a photo

I do want to sell the car and get a Ford Focus RS lol

$30 take it away!

Did you damage the ABS sensor or nip the hub when you popped on new rotors? Or did you sever the ABS cord?

I find that RBs don't like too much timing and generally "flat" because of the torque output of the motor is quite "flat" (a good thing). For example (rpm vs. timing) on 98: 4000 - 20 4400 - 20 4800 - 20 5200 - 21 5600 - 21 6000 - 22 6400 - 22 6800 - 23 and so on... however on E85 or water meth you can throw a few more up top to give it a more of a ramp 4000 - 23 4400 - 23 4800 - 23 5200 - 24 5600 - 24 6000 - 25 6400 - 26 6800 - 28 (those are arbitrary numbers I've made up, please don't use them)

From my experience, say if a car takes x amount of timing on 98RON - on E85 or similar water/meth that particular load point at y rpm will take 4~5 degrees more timing and make more power and torque. But very hard to say in your situation without a dyno. I usually start with a flat timing map then add timing till I start to see less power gains throughout the RPM range, then I determine where max torque is achieved and where it starts to heavily decay. This is where timing can be added (from where the torque decays) and then same thing, see if the motor will take timing at that point onwards. Usually if 1x degree of extra timing makes less than 5kW of power it's pretty much a sign to stop adding timing. Take whatever I say as only information, every motor, every fuel combination, every tuner etc.. is different. Also a good way to preserve motors is to run it richer at peak torque. The cars I tune (mostly for friends) run about 11.5 AFR at peak torque then lean up to about 12afr all the way to redline (that's E85 converted to Gasoline scaling).