Dose Pipe Sutututu

very basic tuning, of course you need to also factor in EGT, knock, IAT, etc. download something like Virtual Dyno... start with timing figures as low as 10 and flat across the board, but make sure your AFR is nice and rich to keep things from going bang Do a 3rd gear run, inspect power/torque made Increase timing by x degrees Do a 3rd gear run, inspect power/torque made Increase timing by x degrees when you add 1x extra degree and you're making crap all gains - it's time to back off the timing a little.. of course you need to repeat this process multiple times to get it right... another thing to note, you can ramp up timing as torque decreases... this is where you need to properly overlay readouts to determine this.. then repeat the same process but only after peak torque to redline. If you live in Australia (which you don't) I wouldn't recommend this on the streets at all.. but I'm assuming you're from the states.. so go nuts.

take it to another auto electrican to double check before he or she takes you for a ride

Shouldn't be buying aftermarket parts at Autobarn.

atmospheric catch can or aftermarket BOV? Take a photo of your engine bay and show us

alloy is black

Yeah that's not a bad idea, but removing the charcoal cannister and placing it there looks more tidy as well as defective lol. On a side note, my dodgy install new studs and torque down the head band-aid solution worked. Was at Wakefield all day today pumping 1.5 bar through the motor and no signs of pressure building up in the cooling system.. yay for 19 year old head gasket and motor haha

Just Japs (ironically most of their parts are China parts lol) have them in alloy NS Hi Octane Racing have them in plastic. I prefer the alloy one as you can grind off shit to fit aftermarket pipes, etc. I had the plastic one and attemptEd that and it met the bin.

I wanna upgrade now (has a sads)

Hallos, Selling my SARD Type-RJ Fuel Pressure Regulator & SARD Fuel Pressure Gauge. Before you ask me if it's real or fake, I'm pretty sure it's not real but it works. The gauge "should be" real as I bought it from CJ-Motors, but then again everything anything SARD is questionable. I have had this running on my car for over a year with no real issues, I've just upgraded to a Turbosmart FPR1200 just because I wanted to LOL. So what you're getting: SARD Type-RJ Fuel Pressure Regulator SARD Fuel Pressure Gauge 2x -6AN to 5/16" or 8mm barb fittings (perfect for standard fuel hoses) Price: $50 or a slab of decent beer Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 Here's a photo of it:

that's a kind of timing map for E85, there's too much timing.,, but listen to STATUS, he does this for a living.

it should be 5V

as you're about to do a 3rd gear pull press the t key and you'll see a cell tracer appear. It will highlight the cells you hit on your run. Do a screen shot of that and post it up.

hit up scotty_nm35 he gets shit mad prices

Hard to say, but looks pretty flat. Less timing will make the turbo come on a little quicker as EGTS are hotter and richer AFRS will increase torque but sacrifice some power. Post up a map trace on like a 3rd gear pull.

sprayed more things black lol.... I might delete the charcoal canister and move the catch can there.. too much shit going across the engine bay at the moment

just a Walbro E85 460 pump man, pretty simple and replaced all my crumbling oem hoses with gates barricade

does he own a Honda or 86 or BRZ?

but the indicator stalk is on the side you shift gears with, logic is not strong

a year or so, it's a strong ling long China rail made from recycled dim sim cans

torque drops, housing glows, EGTs are high and motor won't take timing

get a 100mm eBay core, they're not bad but if money permits a Plazmaman 100mm will be tits.

Honda and 86 owners

I've been pulled over for a RBT and a random bonnet pop. Cop said to me "looks pretty stock" and smiled. No defects were had

stock looking

you're forgetting I'm asian after all lol.. didn't you go to the darkside? why you still here? don't forget your turbo roots lol