Dose Pipe Sutututu

RB26DETT = lag, I prefer VCT

560cc R35 injectors are so small, if you're going to that effort might as well give yourself headroom. I'm running 875cc at stock base pressure and hitting 87% duty cycle already and making only 315kW on a modest dyno

The stock gauge is not in PSI, that 7 you're reading is 1 bar

Hallos, Item 1: R33 GTS-t Stock Airbox & Snorkel Pry: $100 Condition: Goose, bottom left corner shaved a little to fit Plazmaman piping Item 2: Apexi Panel Filter & Original Packaging Pry: $50 Condition: Goose, very clean - minimal usage. Comes with packaging too, #strongresalevalue Item 3: R33 GTS-t Stock Rubber Intake Pry: $10 Condition: Goose, no borken, no cracks Item 4: Alloy Bung Pry: $10 Condition: Goose, good for block off stock BOV at either rubber intake end OR where the return pipe is Special Pry: Items 1+2 = $120 Items 3+4 = $20 Items 1+2+3+4 = $100 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 Contact: Here or PM Item 1: R33 GTS-t Stock Airbox & Snorkel Pry: $100 $80 Condition: Goose, bottom left corner shaved a little to fit Plazmaman piping Cheers, Johnny

gap it down to 0.6mm

Yeah that's because you're using the factor IAT sensor which is on the plenum.. it's a slow lazy sensor. I've got a GM IAT sensor right next to the cold side of the FMIC.. even on one hit in 2nd or 3rd I can see the temperature move 10 degrees... on the dyno it went from 22 degrees to 50 degrees when the car hit redline

They aren't designed to be oiled and they won't filter much, even a ling long dim sim 3A Racing filter, filters better

leave it there it's fine, I threw mine in the bin and removed all excess homo hoses

it assumes a person that is installing it has some common sense.. this means you will need to connect it to your ignition +ve & fuse it, alternatively (I've seen it done with other workshops).. connect it to your headunit's ACC power without a fuse.. as you're essentially using the headunit's 10 amp fuse..stupid option because when you leave your keys in ACC to listen to music your EBC is on.

not to be a dick, but why would someone pay for something that's hollow and triple the price of a Whiteline item?

What you guys also need to factor in is the intake air temp. Stock might flow fine, but it may not cool that well. This potentially is something that would limit power being made.

0.005kW by not using a silicone bend ummkay, that way you won't loose power from the silicone bend expanding ever so slightly. I use a 4 ply silicone bend, hasn't exploded and get trashed on the track every few months. It regularly sees over 1.5bar through it too.

Ize did foe unit but sarked at engrish

don't you know you need to unlock them for stage 4!!! come on man

Is the surge tank so the car is more "race pedigree"? You don't need a surge tank man, the S14/15 fuel tanks are better designed than the S13 fuel tank thus you won't have issues with fuel sloshing about and leaning out. If you really want the surge tank just for some rice at those jdmst meets, get those new AI surge tanks that support dual internal pumps with fuel safe bulk heads and fittings that sit ontop. Many photos will get taken of it Heard your racing pedigree clutch had issues...

A 90 degree silicon bend

Pfft, Stage 4 is all you need. Stop hating lol

What happens when the turbines spin backwards?

easy, gggggggggaaaaaaaaaattttttteeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL

I'm bored at work, so I've put this together... this was the 1st run at 1.5bar, the IAT appears pretty stable

I thought they were cool, till I tried to make it go fast..... wasted effort. It's like trying to make a RB25 go fast, hop into a V8 and you has a sads LOL

To keep the rear bumper clean and/or previous owner had enough of the exhaust fumes

I actually had this issue with my old 180SX running a boat anchor RB20 with the battery in the boot... I had 3x thermos connected to come on all at once when the A/C is on and water temp passed 87 degrees. It was enough to make the car stall - so quick trick was to hook up a trigger from the thermo into the power steering input switch.. worked a treat

what the? no.. it's because the voltage is dropping and the tuner hasn't setup the injector dead times properly.. so when voltage drops the injectors are injecting the wrong fuel.. nothing to do with "giving a bit more fuel and air when the fan kicks in".. also you can adjust the idle motor duty cycle on electrical load OR power steering pressure switch input.. Easiest way is to use a diode and pass the negative trigger from the 1/2 thermo fans to the power steering switch input, then enable Power Steering RPM offset in your idle control.. add like 5 or so extra on the duty cycle then presto.

add more fuel to your water temp correction table... 1st column is when your l oad is at 1792, i.e. no load 2nd column is when your load is at 8960, which is approximately atmospheric, i.e. 0.00 psi ECU will interpolate between the two to determine how much correction is required... so now when your car is super cold, say 30c you see in the example there will be 14% more fuel on no load and 29% more fuel when you hit atmospheric.. Now just play around with those numbers till your AFRs richen up vs. water temp Something I would aim for 30c = 13.5 AFR 50c = 14 AFR 80c = 14.7 AFR Also if you have issues cranking at whatever temperature the cranking table will address that.