Dose Pipe Sutututu

Not related

Easier to pull the motor out

Have you tried a new CAS? torque going flat, then requiring massive amounts of duty cycle to close the gate leads me to believe your timing is all over the shop. Perhaps try to do a quick load hold and see if shit glows OR if your tuner is game hold a timing light on your balancer with the car loaded up (easier on a hub dyno, a bit scary on a roller) to see what the actual timing is. Another thought, post up your dyno pull ECU logs, sometimes you might have some weird sensor (like IAT doing weird shit) and there's an ignition compensation being applied and pulling out shit tons of timing. Another thought, valve float?

I've done the whole gear thing,the problem with gears is that your slapping it into an old housing that's worn and/or out of spec and it causes more issues than it solves Sure, buy a new OEM oil pump and slap in gears (I also did that 2nd time round), but why? You're already 3/4 of the way to a new Nitto pump (which I did with my 2nd built motor). TL;DR buy a Nitto pump.

Tbh, just install a Nitto oil pump. Don't bother with gears.

maybe useful or not useful but look into getting the Sportster GT not CS. GT version has a sub belt hole so you can use a 6 point harness, where as the CS doesn't have that. I've been looking into getting a pair for my shit box, however can't get over the total cost. Wanting to remove the fix bucket seat as I take my son around in the car at times and prefer easier access to the rear seat from the driver's side.

Nissan shit box things. Can't see any leaks from the heater hoses, anything behind the head, or engine bay. I suspect maybe it's a welch plug on the block near the flywheel area. Fk this car.

Pissed off the Nissan Gods by having a street car with working A/C

Bumping this thread, had the same stupid issue with my shit box, thanks @Jaredo for the instructions, no idea if you're still active here or not or have bought a M3 Competition and stopped playing with these shit boxes. For the past year or so, been bypassing the HVAC to turn on the A/C compressor via the Haltech keypad as I couldn't find a replacement thermistor to test. Most newer Nissans use a 6 pin one, these shit boxes use a 3x one. I found one on Aliexpress that "might" work however didn't end up getting it and went down the route of trying to fix it. So yeah, I removed the A/C Thermistor as per the above guide - it's a bit of a cnut of a job, however can be done with the dash still in. You can loosen the A/C evaporator enough to get a long set of pilers in to dislodge the probe from the core. I found it helpful to remove all 3x visible (larger) phillips head screw (with 10mm hex heads), then 2x smaller screws holding the housing together. Ended up using a 47uF 25V capacitor from my random box of electronics shit, (OEM is 32uF 25V). Soldered it back on, slapped the cnut back together, reassembled everything and prayed to the Nissan gods that this would fix it. And it did... And the gods punished me by making the car leak coolant from somewhere between the rear of the head & gearbox. I suspect the hardlines from the NEO motor has rubbed with the Nitto head drain. FFS. And yes that small sheet of particle board, ended up falling on my car and scratching the front lip as I was inspecting the coolant leak. Fk I hate this car.

So for the longest time, I used the Haltech canbus keypad to turn on or off the AC compressor because for some reason the HVAC controls kept turning the compressor off as soon as it went on. Turns out the stupid AC Thermistor BS had died like all the other Nissan shit boxes in the 90s shit box era. Been trying to find a suitable replacement but it's discontinued and the modern ones from other Nissans are 6x pin. Fear not, after mindless SAU research it turns out you can crack open the thermistor circuit and replace the fked cap, that I did (take note on that white piece of mdf). AC now working as expected and the HVAC controls work perfectly. Now the fun part, went to park up the shit box just then and now there's a pile of coolant. Seems like it's coming from somewhere between the motor and box, fk this piece of shit. Also as I was looking for the leak, that white piece of MDF I used as a makeshift shelf, it snagged on my shirt and landed on the bumper, taking a chuck of paint off. Lol. So TL;DR, AC fixed, new coolant leak and chipped paint off the bumper.

Can it slice potatoes this thin?

Precision turbo dose, at least the wheel won't fall off 😂

Let's hear it dose

Block off the PCV, block off the feed back to the intake. Run both fittings off the cam covers to the catch can. Be prepared to enjoy Eau de Oil Vapour.

He doesn't want me to say "I told you so" for not buying a Haltech 2500.

I hate it, if someone came to me with a 2018+ F80 M3 Competition, straight swap I would take it and my wife won't complain because I didn't need to add in more money. I've surfaced the idea of selling the shit box and adding money for a F80 M3, her words "get fked, you're not selling anything". She reckons I'll end up buying another 90s JDM shit box in the future.

Didn't win Powerball, can't buy a 911 GT3 RS. Time to improve the shit box, so as we all know when you slap anything bigger than a stock pump, the OEM venturi causes a massive restriction, especially trying to control pressure on the rail. When running a surge tank, you wouldn't care too much, however even with a 200L/h lift pump, there was still about 0.5bar of fuel pressure in the surge with the main pumps off. This meant that the venturi was holding back the return line too much, building pressure for no reason, thus causing undesirable current draw, heat, noise etc. So yeah, wasted more money to optimise something that would usually be over looked.

I'm not against twins, however to get them to work properly you need to take a page out of BMW's book. Each turbo has its own exhaust path quite far down before the exhaust mixes at the rear muffler. Each turbo has its own IC chamber before it all meets just before the throttle body. Unfortunately, noone has properly done twins on a RB, realistically it's not cost effective.

Correct, I'm running a GT-R alternator on my shit box GTS-t

120kW at 4000rpm would be really fun to drive.

If you need the mounting/restraint points, get them here, they're based in VIC too. https://rawsparts.com/nissan_skyline_r33/98-r33-gtr-cra-kit.html 1/2 the price of what wreckers or the numpties on Facebook want to them, not to mention it's brand new.

Nice mate, any track days you're looking forward to?

Fyp

90A are GT-R ones, R33 GTS-t or GTS had 80A ones. Just slap a LS alternator on, done.

Time to reduce the lobe separation angle, install an adjustable exhaust cam gear lol Some merit to this, you'll have better cylinder scavenging down low, more low down torque just a terrible idle. Nissan did combat this by only advancing the intake only once you were outside of the idle conditions.