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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. The whole locking gate thing does my head in, and the whole you can only fill up your car at this bay is a pain in the arse. Not to mention it's so fking hard to get up there without scrapping shit! I found that reversing up on a very extreme angle worked, other than that you'll scrape everything underneath.
  2. Yeah been once, never again. I prefer Sydney Motorsport Park, knowledgeable staff, no silly BS about bringing in your own F&B, you can leave/come as you please, they don't need to hold onto your physical license, they don't lock any gates, etc. Luddenham isn't cheap either.
  3. If you need a working, and recently serviced 2 way KAAZ LSD in a 4.08 & ABS housing, I can do it for $40k USD and it comes with a street/track car. AC even works!
  4. Yep, 90% of people have them installed 10cm away from the turbo, hence they all die. I've only destroyed 1x Haltech sensor in 5x years, this probably died due to me being stupid and hitting the launch antilag constantly when leaving saying bye to people lol.
  5. You should always run a wideband, have closed loop fuelling setup as well as lean out protection. Even a crappy modern Toyota Corolla runs a wideband for precise fuelling, FWIW.
  6. I might be wrong, however I bought N1 Billet gears from Spool Imports and they went straight into the factory oil pump with my previous motor.
  7. My yesteryears of agency life are long gone! I get tipsy off 2x beers now, cheap as it gets.
  8. Here's Rene's thread, very concise information. Meanwhile here's mine, I run a Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2, on a 1.01 divided rear housing and make ok power. Just be a heads up, there's heaps of house renovation talk too (and some ok car info) lol... I suggest to start from like page 98 or so.
  9. Full send it, will need to install an inline gauge to determine the pressure though 😂
  10. Nice looking car, however I want a 4 door car with a S55 motor 😊
  11. Just do this, save your energy for something else like arguing with Australian RB parts manufacturers 😂
  12. You forgot the x% where people are tight arses and also can do a better job than a shop.
  13. Got it from: https://psifilters.com.au/collections/twin-undersink-premium/products/high-flow-twin-system This one isn't a RO filter, however the above website sells them too. I was just more concerned about removing contaminates such as heavy metals, plastics, lead, and other shit you get in your regular tap water. Flow rate, about 80% of what it was before. Also the mixer already cuts flow rate down to meet those new requirements. I'll workout overall flow soon and post back. Haha old school, carb tuning. 12:1 AFR at any load, eFfiCiEnCy bRO.
  14. No idea, I'll calculate it tomorrow 😂 There's a pressure limit valve on it, currently set to 3.5bar. Data logs might be challenging, it uses a screw driver for tuning LOL.
  15. I know I know, Australia's drinking water is superior, etc. However when I cut apart my fridge's water filter after 6 months, I can say I'm not a believer in our water being that clean. Anyhow, decided to go with an inline water filter setup, this means there's no need to drill a hole on the bench top for a dedicated tap. Measure 5x, cut 1x. Overall, tastes like the water out of the fridge now and not like tap water.
  16. @TurboTapin might be easier for you to buy my car, and ship it to Canada. Turn key and ready to go, no need to wait for workshops. Ready for skids/track/street takeovers (seems common for you lot on that continent )
  17. Both your solutions are valid, for now the spaced bracket works and when the car is due for any kind of belt change/timing, crank trigger kit (won't be using Ross after this experience), etc. I will look into replacing the idler OR skimming off parts of it. Sigh... I hate modifying cars now.
  18. So update, Ross said they would review it and they never got back to me. After a couple of follow ups, nothing. Even tried messaging them on IG and nothing. Guess I'm not a big player (spend heaps) or have any social presence. They're happy selling products that semi work (works great if you don't have A/C) and when you try to provide constructive feedback you're met with radio silence. Guess it will just have to live with the spaced out bracket using washers - better than nothing, just annoyed I bought something that was supposed to be engineered to fit.. Oh wells, shit box Nissans.
  19. Decent pads go a long way, and DBA4000 rotors are great, they seem to withstand heat cycling and not warp as easy as other cheaper brands. I personally avoid getting slotted but that's my personal preference.
  20. Car will just go back on with the same timing map, fuel map & boost, same type of dyno, however not the same one and my old run won't be there either. However being a Mainline Pro Hub, they seem to be quite consistent in terms of reading.
  21. Euro 4 or 5 or 6 spec? I'm heading down the same path (soon), however might do a 3" AES valve to bypass the cat/mid muffler and join back to the rear muffler if post turbine pressure creeps up. Similar to this: https://www.facebook.com/project7dere/posts/pfbid02TRQxyu9g19CJc1wit6yddh9WyDhjo3uabivNzsG5r5DhjWkg2ZPfgtUuLG4rGMhVl i.e. no Western Sydney GT-R mode
  22. Seems it's a common brand of rods for older BMW builds too.
  23. Since you're going tits out, I would suggest this: head drain/vent (make sure the drain is above the sump oil line, if not it is pointless the biggest catch can you can fit sump breather to catch can catch can to sump drain decent sump that's baffled, the Aeroflow ones look decent (ignoring the brand) Silly RB will push oil into the catch can and it will just flow back into the sump. Happy days!
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