Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Jesus, that's way too high! I run a 25 row Setrab core in the driver side guard and I can manage to keep oil sub 130°C doing continuous hot laps (well did, till the engine seized lol).
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Had a feeling, that RB25 NEO cam gear gave it away haha -
I personally would go G35 turbine side as well Another option is to go to a Precision 6266 Gen 2, just run an oil filter, oil pressure relief valve and you should be pretty good.
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I already offloaded it with a pile of stock intake manifold junk on Facebook. If only you asked earlier would have given it to you 🙂
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No objections, better boost control than say your typical 6Tits manifold with the gate outlet perpendicular to the collector followed by another 90 degree bend. The welds look great too!
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lol... funny.. I already do most of the house work, cook, laundry/fold clothes etc.. New age male
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it's true we are hopeless without the missus!
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When I used to do quite a bit of wiring (when I was younger, didn't have back pain and had plenty of spare time) I would actually take photos and send it to my girlfriend at the time (wife now) and ask her what the colours were LOLOLOL.
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Just went to take a photo, I'm colour blind too so can't really tell what the 4th wire is, it's blue and something? LOL.. I'm using 1st wire as sensor GND and the 3rd wire (which is covered in heat shrink) as Trigger. And yes, I should re-terminate that plug, I have a spare one to go on too - just forgotten about it.
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So next on the list, OEM fan shroud and OEM fan setup? 😎
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no offense, but that Aeroflow 14" fan won't be moving much air either. There's a reason why plenty of circuit racers with shit box Skylines (mine included, massive shit box) predominantly use the OEM shroud and OEM fan.
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I'll go have a look and take a photo in a bit
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Okay so some slight digging, you essentially pin it to GND and Trigger 1 (Link ECU reference). Trigger 2 is unused, I suspect that's the home signal. 12V is unused in this instance. @robbo_rb180 got mine to start first go yesterday, but it does need a fair amount of cranking. I suspect it "might" want more fuel on crank. I also went to town with the pulse prime, get those runners nice and moist when it's cold lol Also tried adding more timing on crank, I think it makes it a bit harder to crank, will drop it all to 0s this week and try again
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It was initially pinned wrong by NZ Wiring then as I was troubleshooting, Haltech support advised to feed the reluctor 5V power, which is actually incorrect. The reluctor actually generates it's own voltage. I will confirm how I've wired it in a bit. Actually can't remember right now lol.
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It gets driven once a month lol... Even if I drive it once a week, I still add in that additive. So far (past motors, setups, etc.) I've never had injectors gum up or seize, so it might work? (Or it's a scam and I'm donating money to the Lucas Oil execs)
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Robbo's on the money here. I missed the part where you're running the twin thermos. In the bin they go, factory shroud and fan then see how you go.
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Avoid eBay radiators, including the eBay ones sprayed Mishimoto on them. Get a PWR or Koyo or so. Also did you bleed the system properly?
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It does sound wild though 🥲 Also took out the shit box to refuel, when the fk did E85 cost $2.19 per farken L? United are laughing to the bank. Extra measure because it rarely gets driven Also got my cam trigger to sync quicker,l on crank, the arming voltage was too high
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You could get her to setup an IG account and when you post on FB it automatically goes to IG Hopefully we can race together somewhere, some day, (hopefully not in my R33) lol...
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haha just had a squiz/listen - you on IG bruvva? I rarely use FB.. cbf
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Welcome Back, any dose videos? lol
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yes the Haltech still controls the A/C output Your HVAC system requests for the A/C to turn on, the ECU then determines when to output to the compressor relay (under certain TPS, under certain RPM, and when x% extra duty cycle is applied to the IACV). Since you're going DBW you just set an extra % the throttle needs to open. You'll find that with DBW it idles so much better than the OEM leaks valves. This is what I've done to mine (needs quite a bit of duty cycle to idle as I have VCT enabled from idle to sound like a hard cnut lol) And I've added some delays so the idle stabilises first before the A/C compressor request is sent out from the Kebabtech And this is my zero demand timing table, as you can see with A/C on I've added quite a bit of timing to introduce more torque And you're wondering why there's a massive timing difference between 850 and 900? yeah that's for the hectic fully sick idle LOL
