blind_elk

Sounds just like a broken pedal box.

I once found some splicing terminals at Dick Smiths (IIRC) that basically create a "T" connection onto any given wire. (have a look at the 3M catalogue for "3M Female Disconnects - T-Tap Nylon Insulated Self Stripping" - http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnY_vM8tSevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=03_Termnl_KitsTools_v03.pdf)

It's not uncommon to have "spare" plugs hanging off the loom. Quite often, manufacturers design the loom to suit multiple models within the range. Some models don't have the bit that a certain plug on the loom connects to in another model.

What revs / load cause the "chug"? Have you tried replacing the fuel filter?

I don't understand. It would make sense if something didn't work, but you didn't know where to connect the plug. But if everything works when this plug is left unconnected to anything, what exactly is the problem?

A little bit of knowledge - or in the case, no knowledge - is a dangerous thing. The honeycomb is supposed to be there - it's the catalyst that does the job of converting - hence the name "catalytic converter" - the noxious exhaust gases (NOx, SOx, etc) into more environmentally friendly compounds.

I think that circuit is what keeps things like the clock and radio supplied with power to maintain memory, etc. 0.49A is not a big current, and shouldn't "kill" a battery in 3 days. What is possibly killing the battery is that it is being overcharged (an alternator regulator problem). You can check by measuring volts across the battery terminals while the engine is idling and when it is at around 2k revs. Anything above about 14V is not good.

Then try opening the gap. New coils should be able to jump a 1.1 spark gap (assuming no major increases in boost are happening).

No you don't.Take the radiator to Natrad or other radiator service joint. They should be able to clean the cores, or provide you with a new core.

Your problem may well lie somewhere here. 7s are possibly too cold, try some 6s.

19.62 litres is not "half a tank". (when I went to school, half of 65 was 32.5, not 19.6). You have been previously told that the gauge is useless for indicating an exact amount of fuel in the tank. I've actually had my low fuel light on when the gauge said full, or half, or two thirds, because the gauge is worn and what it indicates varies enormously. Although it never seems to indicate less fuel than is available. YOU HAVE TO FILL THE TANK! That is the only point at which you know the exact fuel level. Add some fuel then drive around until the low fuel light comes on doesn't mean anything. What the fuel gauge says isn't worth much of a cracker in this exercise. And you need to zero/reset the trip meter. So, you FILL THE TANK and reset the trip meter, drive around for a while, then FILL THE TANK. Note the litres required to FILL THE TANK, and divide that number into (kms on the trip meter x 100). Reset the trip meter again.

Check the fusible links.

Have you cleaned out the carby?

You could "cut" the nut off using a cold chisel.

Yes it's 65L capacity, but that doesn't mean every time you fill it you have added 65L! The fuel gauge is indicative only, means absolutely diddly squat as a measuring device. Get the "litres added" from the petrol pump display. = 18.6 litres @ 15.5l/100km. Actually what you are saying is not clear. You have to do the distance BEFORE you add the fuel. Then you can accurately calculate fuel economy. As above, do not rely on the fuel gauge to tell you exactly how much fuel has been used or how much remains in the tank. Only the petrol pump can tell you how much fuel goes into the tank AFTER you have done some kms. The only accurate part of the gauge appears to be the "low fuel" warning lamp, which will come on at around 10-15 litres remaining (exact turn on point appears to differ car to car). 30 seconds is all the idle from startup that is required. That's basically long enough to put on your seat belt and select a gear. You can save 25 of those by buckling up before you even start the engine. Extended idling from cold start wastes fuel and increases damage to the engine. Just be sensible about driving a cold engine - limit revs to 3k, maybe 4k, STAY OFF BOOST. Of course it's raising fuel consumption. The jerking is because the fuel is not being burned properly, and you are spitting raw fuel out the exhaust. (and last time I considered it, WOT amounted to "flogging it") Unless you have an aftermarket ECU, you can't tune R33 ECUs.

Get the injectors cleaned. Clean the AFM. Clean the AAC valve. New spark plugs. New fuel filter. New fuel. Check inlet plumbing all connected properly.

You bedded the pads in?

Faulty (dead) pressure sender? Did you teflon tape the sender screw thread?

$75 @ $1.51 is only 49.7 litres. Over 300km, that equates to 16.5l/100km (approx 6km/l). On 65 litres tank capacity, you should get a bee's dick over 400km on a tank.

The only way you can determine fuel economy is to refill the fuel tank and note the litres used. Just saying "the tank is empty" means nothing. City driving and short trips will adversely affect fuel economy. A dead temp sensor won't help either.

RB25DE / RB25DET are the same plug, as far as I can determine (BKR5EIX-11). If the engine is misfiring, then you are putting uneven stresses on the internals - some cylinders get full explosion for power, some get no explosion for power, some get a reduced exploision. Can't be good for the big ends and gudgeons.

Are the shock absorbers in good condition?

What happens if you swap the wheels F<->R?

How many times do we have to answer this Q? There is a push-switch adjacent to the h/lamp switch, that is there for driving lights (if fitted), but also turn on parkers / tails.

Try getting the injectors cleaned.