Murray_Calavera

Sounds like there is some shenanigans going on with the boost control solenoid. The wastegate spring is 5psi and the factory boost control solenoid takes it up to 7psi when over 4500rpm. I would be very surprised if the play in the wastegate was causing these issues. Not enough preload on the wastegate generally just means a bit more lag and doesn't impact on the overall boost level. The universal kit comes with a straight rod, vehicle specific kits will come with a bent rod if required. Have a look at the IWG75 kits to suit an evo for an example. My wastegate isn't on the stock turbo though, so my setup won't be the same as yours. I'm using the straight actuator rod, but if you need a kink in the rod for your setup, this can be solved in about 5 seconds with a vice and a hammer. Having said that, I don't think there is much value in putting this wastegate on the stock turbo. If the wastegate failed, you'd just replace it with another stock one. The reason for running the Turbosmart wastegate is to have more control over the boost levels, but with the stock turbo you'd never run it over about 10psi anyway and the stock wastegate will allow you to run that very easily with a boost controller.

So you have the stock rb25 turbo? So I'm guessing what the guy was trying to tell you is the wastegate doesn't have enough preload on it. Have a look at this video to see what I'm talking about. When you say you've got issues with the boost dropping off, how much boost are you running and how low does it get in the top end? As for what I'm using, I use a Turbosmart IWG75 on a Hypergear turbo.

@The Bogan Sir, your dataz are ready. I included oil and coolant pressures as well because why not lol.

Hopefully after the TCU is installed you won't feel the need for a 3rd set of wheels.

What ECU are you going to use? Are you going to install all of the supporting mods yourself and then pay a workshop to tune it?

Would you be interested in picking up those skills? It's not hard, it's just a practice makes perfect thing and having good quality crimping tools makes an insane difference. I feel pretty confident that we could talk you through what tools you'll need, how to get this bad boy wired up and tuned.

Fk me, looks amazing Yeah, I was in NSW before but in QLD now, it's so much easier legally putting a built car on the road here compared to NSW it's crazy how different it is.

Please post up your results and some build pics as it goes. It sounds like it will be very nice

haha well you've already put aside the $2,500 that I mentioned, I hope you still have quite a bit of change left. Fingers crossed! I expect that you will pass emissions first go. Yes you are correct, the standards that you need to meet are based on the year the vehicle was manufactured. It sounds like you've got all your ducks lined up which is good.

No worries, I'll get the data up this week some time.

Almost perfect list. Small correction, the emissions testing needs to be done before the engineer can sign off the car. They are certifying that the car meats the Australian Design Regulations based on it's year of construction, they will need to view the emissions printout to be satisfied that this is the case. I agree, skids are an important part of the engineering and registration process.

I hope this helps even a little. So on a 20 - 25ish degree day, my oil temp tracks my water temp by like 10 degrees. So water temp 50 degrees, oil temp 40 degrees. They pretty much rise that way together til they both come up to temp. Water never really rises above 75, oil sits around 90ish. I run a decent sized oil cooler with a thermostat. Dunno when it opens? maybe around 90ish? No idea. I also have the factory coolant/oil heat exchanger thingo which helps bring up oil temps nicely. If you're super curious, I can log data on my next drive if you like.

The people who fail emissions testing are the people that don't treat it as something that needs to be addressed as its own thing. People turn up with their modified cars, as they intent to run them on the street, and then unsurprisingly fail. If you have the correct spec cat(s) and correct tune you'll pass first go. Are you able to use the factory ECU for this swap? Also have you 100% locked in everything with your engineer, as in all the mods it will have and locked in a price? I've seen quotes blow out like crazy and plenty of engineers playing the 'oh actually, just change this little thing and bring it back game' next minute your bill is $2,500.

I don't know why you're so hung up on this blue slip thing. It's like a $40 piece of administrative paperwork and 30 minutes of your time. You are going to go through hell getting the car certified, I'd be more worried about that. (I'm not saying it won't be certified, but it is not a fun process and is bloody expensive and time consuming).

This can't be answered correctly without knowing what engine is going into what car. Some engine swaps cannot be registered, some swaps will require engineer certification (+blue slip), some engine swaps will be blue slip only. You always need a blue slip, that's how the records are updated on the system with the new engine number etc.

Reducing timing plays a large part in modern traction control systems. I'm surprised how many comments have been made that cutting fuel to a cylinder is an 'instantaneous reduction of torque' but in a port injected engine, it's not actually 'instantaneous' while the time it takes for the last injection of fuel to move though the cylinder and be burnt is indeed quick, it's not instant. Cutting timing though is an instant reduction in torque, the ECU can start with this and then start cutting fuel as well if required. I'm probably splitting hairs here as the sensation to the driver may feel instantaneous in the case of the fuel cut only strategy, however I think it's still worth mentioning all of this from a technical standpoint.

That's a lot better then what I was picturing. I thought you were describing a system where when there is wheel slip, it's like hitting a brick wall, all fuel cut, then pause, then power comes back. I've never heard of the Racelogic TCS until now, so I'm just having a guess here. It seems like the market for these are for people without a modern aftermarket ECU? Kinda like back in the early 2000's when we all had some form of boost control box but now is entirely controlled by the ECU.

I started typing up quite a lengthy reply about why in a performance environment you would not want to use a sledge hammer approach to traction control of 'any amount of wheel slip detected = 100% fuel cut'. Then I thought it would make more sense to just link you to an expert for a better explanation then what I was typing. Syvecs do really good traction control systems, so I'll let them explain why you would want a more nuanced traction control system.

Thought this might interest you. Have a look at the way the power gently ramps up. When you were talking about being able to mash the throttle and maintain traction, this is a good solution.

To fix this properly, you'll need to chase the rust and see where it leads you. You can almost guarantee that there is more rust then what is visible at the moment.

You can log your data while on track. Oil pressure and whatever temperature sensors you're interested in will let you know the answers to those questions. Based on your use case though, I don't think you have to worry about your block being considered a consumable.

Are you planning to regularly track your car?

I can not wait to setup DBW and pull all of these leak valves in the bin.

I'm amazed that there is 100 octane at the pump. Who is the target market for this fuel?

Do you mind saying what the car is and how much they are asking for?