MBS206

I have a query, but why do you want to hold back the outright capability of the mechanical system? Would it not be better to build a system that is responsive as possible, that meets your upper requirements, and then use electronic measures to control and manage it? That way you're not left with a car that you might want a bit more response from but can't mechanically achieve it. That's my frame of mind on all of this. Would mean you also have a more responsive and driveable car on the freeway etc without needing to drop gears. Power on tap with mid throttle.

You're not meant to drink the bore water, not until you filter it at least but Bore water is typically tastier than the shit that comes out of Dubbo's town water

Going off the fresh grooves, it looks like you're only at half depth, so go for more engagement. It also looks like the tool is rolling too, which will aid the tool in stripping the head, it also means the torque you're isn't being fully transferred to actually undo the bolt. If you're using a ratchet, ditch it. Get a GOOD breaker bar. Ratchets also absorb torque, and aren't designed for huge torque or things like pipes being added to them, or jacks. You'll likely find the ratchet 1/2" drive bit has a bit of play in it, which will possibly be what is allowing the tool bit to end up rolling, rather than purely twisting.

This is my category. Cost, it's the biggest driver. Been cheaper to acquire tools than it has to pay for labour, even if it takes me longer, I enjoy it.

The flow restrictors for taps, are all right at the outlet, unscrew them, slip the weird bit out, screw it back in. But filter is probably smashing flow rate down now more than the tap.

You installed a carburettor to run your kitchen sink?! Are you mad! It'll need tuning each time air temp changes! What if the pressure in the kitchen goes up? Can it handle the heat and pressure with only a screwdriver to tune it?! PS, where'd you get it from, and does it still flow like a normal tap? Is it an RO filter?

Just remember, as you get older, your hearing starts to go. Make sure you fit straight pipes... 😛

Most of them have a system you can turn on to play noise through the speakers for you.... Funnily enough, petrol things like BMW do this from the factory too in "sports mode". People think the exhaust gets louder... But it doesn't... Ha ha ha

Alright, quick update Switch panel is fully mounted. Relay/fuse panel is fully mounted. Wiring to O2 is now run fully. Wiring from relay to headlights is ran. Just need to run the wiring to the switch. Indicator wiring is fully run except from the relay to the fuse (Will attempt to load the video of me quickly testing it...) First time the indicators have flashed properly in 12 years... Power steer from Barra ECU I've found out no need to connect, as it doesn't do any controlling of varying pressure, and I don't need the PS switch feed back for the Barra ECU at all. So far, off the top of my head for wiring to finalise it all. Run cables for the speed sensor. But that involves me also mounting a speed sensor. Gearbox doesn't have one, and I never had ABS, so no speed rings I can use for anything. Likely end up finding an AU Falcon output housing from T5 with the speed sensor and wire that in. Some earth straps and earth points. run a couple of power cables from fuses to relays... I will need to run wiring later for a thermo fan, but I'm waiting to do that for two reasons: 1) I don't know the current draw I'll have exactly, as I don't have the thermo yet, and 2) I don't have new heavy enough gauge cable if I end up with a thermo pulling 20 to 25Amp like a few of the thermo's I'm looking at do for the huge CFM they flow. Will also be adding a horn too, but need to find my horns first. Ha ha Two other things I will be wiring in too, but not just at this exact moment as I'm going to make up a PCB for this, but I'll be setting up wiring for the windows, and wiring for the electric mirrors. Just about ready to move on to running the fuel lines, will need to order them up this week or the one after Indicator Rear.mp4

Mark, as you're keeping the big SS monster, which you can use for longer trips etc, and you're wanting something with the ModCons, and some sporty zip, have you considered an EV? Depending on how many KMs you do a year, from now to the 70 year old Mark, it may work out cheaper to go a new EV. I presently drive the Kona EV, and now in my mid 30s, I prefer driving it in traffic over any car I have access to. To the point, unless I want to go for a spirited drive, I'd rather drive it over even the missus Liberty GT-B, which is a car I quite enjoy. It handles pretty nicely (Especially for a small SUV style car). I guess have a really low center of gravity really helps it. On the rare occasion I actually press the brake pedal, I nearly headbutt the front window. But in general, I use regen braking nearly everywhere. But you want to go quick, just push the quiet pedal, and it gets up and zips off and away! Has all the mod cons of the AC, the cruise, the safety bells and whistles (Some of which I've personally switched off, but they might be good to keep a soon to be 70 year old safe ) Oh, also runs a 500KM range, in winter as I'm smashing both heater and AC, and the fan pretty hard, my range drops to about 400 usable KMs. But in summer, I'm legit getting 500KM range, and that is using AC too. Using the regen braking, and smooth (not slow, just smooth) acceleration really helps. Oh, and at current electricity prices, it's under $3/100km to put electricity in it. If your SS is anything like my VT SS was, you're using around 18L/100km easily around town... At $2/L, the SS would be costing about $36 / 100KM to run... So the EV really does save it. But that being said, you need to spend a bit more to buy it up front due to the batteries (Sort of pre-paying for fuel). Hence my comment on depending how many KMs you do. But realistically, you could drive from Sydney to Goulburn, shove it on the slow charger when you get down there (Normal power point) for 5 hours, and get back to Sydney again and still have 50KM left over. Stop off at a fast charger (I'm expecting Goulburn has one by now) for lunch, and you'd be fully charged and back on the road by the time lunch finishes, so you'd be back in sydney with 200KM of range still available. Park it back in your garage (Or just outside it) on the charger overnight, come back out and you're good to go. Want more freedom than that for a trip down randomly, well, you've still got the dinosaur eating V8 tucked away Note: It may not fit your situation depending how enjoyable you find it to drive, or the number of KMs you do a day, or even how often you want to take the daily on long trips vs the commodore when you hit retirement, but I find being able to sit side by side with most of the "fast kids" in their P Plate cars pretty funny, especially since you don't need to shift gears or worry about the launch, so they actually get pissed off when the EV goes past them Depending on the KMs you do daily, and how many you expect to keep doing daily running around in retirement, a decent EV would be a good daily driver, especially once you hit retirement. (DVA Gold gets you a good discount on electricity doesn't it?)

Nek minnit, Mark is selling the SS for an N spec Hyundai...

My current daily drive has no cat converter. My previous daily driver has no cat converter. Granted, previous one is old school Diesel. Current one is an EV

Not an RB, but our EJ25T has been on the same set of plugs for over 100k KMs... No idea what's in the motor cause screw changing shit on a daily if it's not needed!!!

Maybe you got your radiator and header tank so quick as they forgot to weld it together fully

It will when they line up preparing to ban petrol vehicles outright...

Also, still waiting on diagnosis as to what let the coolant out... I'm presuming you only filled, and werent pressure testing, so worst case is something like Welch plug not in correctly or missing... However, I suspect something more normal, like, someone forgot to connect a heater hose to the heater box properly, or missed one of the many random lines under the plenum. And that's making Brett consider just selling the whole thing rather than trying to get back under the plenum in a GTR to fix a fiddly hose

In 10 years time, own anything that runs on petrol and you'll be fisted by the EPA, PETA, and the Greens

Just turn VLSD into a Stick Locker... Least then you know it'll spin both...

I would start with a complete bleed of the brake system too with fresh brake fluid. Most fade people get on the street is either from pads not suited to the driving, or old fluid that isn't happy anymore.

Watching both videos, at least T2 and T3, his mate drives a different line on T2. Added to this, at the apex he's about 5kmh slower than Dose is. By being slower, it gives him the ability to get on the throttle sooner, so by corner exit, he's already faster speed wise than Dose is. This equates to being quite a bit faster at the braking marker of the next turn. It also sounds like he's giving smoother and more subtle inputs on the steering wheel. T2 sounded like it was a huge rip in on the wheel, and then some wood saw action to regain front end traction. I'd recommend adding a GoPro setup to film your steering wheel work, and one down to film your pedals if you really want to start to analyse and improve your track driving.

Funnily enough the person who would want it runs Motec. And I myself spend a shit tonne of my working time doing reverse engineering of CANBUS, and Electronics Engineering ha ha. Just no time left to take on more projects (I have enough already right now ) Keep me in the loop on what you're doing

Got link to the specific device you're using? I know someone who may be interested in one for his production race car.

Where did you buy all the rubbers for around the doors etc?

Is that an IR setup to get a reading across the tyre, not just a single temperature per wheel?

Adz, is you're issue the steering column shaft going past the starter? Some of the Barra guys grab a GTS4 or GTR rack. Moves rack to column point further away from motor.