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Beer Baron

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Everything posted by Beer Baron

  1. for guys like us this is pretty close to the best job in the world, so don't expect the best salary in the world to come with it! wish I could kick my faberge egg addiction, pack in my suit and take it.
  2. it seems the 4000s are not all they're cracked up to be muhahahaha.
  3. !!?!?!?!?!?! this is a big change of tune from the alonso fan i have come to see over the last 2 years. why are you deserting him now? I seem to remember you tellng me alonso how alonso was the greatest thing since sliced bread.... if anything I like him a little more now that he's being an arsehole. in the past he was just a faggy looking, shaggy haired little nancy. at least now he's a coniving, backstabbing shaggy haired little nancy...
  4. well a 1.5way is a 2 way really. just different ramp rates on the decel side. but I'm fairly sure you can get 2 way lsd, but regardless I'm not interested in 2 way for the front.
  5. haha stop talking to sydney kid about shocks! these are the portugese spicy ohlins. much better than japanese karage ohlins or the sweedish meatball ohlins. no they are japanese. but I'm not sure it matters much if at all. they are a completely different model though to giants which are a big step up again. about 5 grand or so for the ones I have, but giants are a whole other level again in price and performance.
  6. hi guys, beer baron is in the midst of upgrading my little ol car. i'm putting in my GTS4 diff gears. and I had a thought. since I am pulling front diff out and putting the CW onto the old open centre, why don't I buy a nice LSD centre to put the CW onto and instal that. But then I'm thinking, do I really want/need a front LSD. now obviously we can discount 2 way and even 1.5way as the turn in understeer I imagine would be insane. even more so if you like to trail some brake into corners. so basically we are left with 1 ways. I'm curious to see what people think of them. obviously for straight line stuff they are magic. but on the circuit what is it like when you are exiting a corner and get on the power early (say right at the apex). you probably still have a bit of steering on, so what happens? does it just grip up and point you where you want to go, or will it send you wide? so if you have an LSD in the front of your GTR tell me what it's like, and is it worthwhile, or should I just stick with the open? also, any negatives? and what model have people used?
  7. lol, not very exclusive, but it is pretty damn old! it just has on/off. auto, 1 min or 3 min. that's it. it's probably 10 years old and is only there because I'm too lazy to remove it.
  8. R-tune. S-tune are just normal steel body, no remote canister. these are all alloy body, with remote canister and seperate bump and rebound adjustment (30X20!). they are actually Ohlins, just branded and sold by nismo.
  9. I did have some JJR upper arms and castor rods, but switched to cusco castor rods and noltec upper arms. castor rods purely because the cusco ones use much bigger rods ends with boots and the upper arms because the JJR dog bone ones are mainly built to help people remove negative camber from overly lowered cars, since my car is not ridiculously low and I wanted more neg, not less I couldn't get enough camber out of them. went to the noltec ones which have a little more adjustment. I do still have my JJR (well "D1 spec") quick release hub though. bnr#, power atm is 270kwatw. lap times off the top of my head best at easter creek is 1:53.4 and oran park GP around 1:22. never had this GTR at wakefield though, and never officially timed on the Oran sth circuit (and I don't much like the sth layout). with some decent tyres and brakes I'd like a flat 1:50 at EC and a 1:20 at OP GP. It's yet to be run with the brembos, and also haven't fitted the turbos, injectors, manis etc. but happening now, should be done in a few weeks. forgot a couple of small things: koyo twin core radiator cusco turbo timer (yay!!) ganador aero mirrors carbon intercooler duct carbon radiator stays carbon radiator diffuser panel and about to order an ARC intercooler. and will add a lightweight 1piece tail shaft too (either carbon one, or UAS alloy one) oh and for seats I stuck with good ol nissan. R34 GTR seats for street and cobra evolution carbon seat with willans harness for track. here it is in action (yes I love to whore out the pics!)
  10. and funky, the pagani is HOT. but the interior looks like it was designed by a hooker....
  11. diablo was put into production long after the GTR. so no, it wasn't the attesa pioneer.
  12. very nice mate. it will be a fair bit of work getting them nicely dialled in I reckon. and I thought my shocks were hardcore, next to yours mine seem pretty weak now. haha. there is no doubt you have the best toys mate!
  13. for sure. I heard that most of the dudes that work at the RTA smoke the bone. lol.
  14. like dave said measure the gaps on the ones that AREN'T broken. obviously you can't measure the end gaps on the ones that are failed, but measuring the others should give you an idea as to whether or not it's an assembly problem.
  15. I have to be honest I'm not sure how good it will be. I have a Nokia N95 and the navi on it is not so crash hot. it takes a little while to get a lock so I'm not sure how well it will fare doing something as precise as track timing.
  16. get your alarm calibrated doof. nothing worse than a poorly calibrated alarm going off all the time.
  17. well like I said a lot of the reason you hear about walbro and bosch failures comes down to poor install. you will never get that with nismo or tomei pumps are they are 100% direct fit, even down to plugging into the existing wiring so you imediately elliminate the chance of installation related failures. but there are too many other cases for me to risk using one personally.
  18. definately look at ducting before spending up on bigger gear. if you still have the stone guards there, remove them first. then look at getting some ducting in there. braided line wont help with cooking fluid, but it is a good upgrade to do anyway. also what pads are you using?
  19. what size is the wheel? anyway it's unlikely 245 semi slick will fit inside the front guards on a 33 GTST. also what size are you running on the rear?
  20. well personally I wouldn't be skimping on my fuel pump. but it's your money and your choice. I'm still surprised that people such as your good self continue to reccomend walbro. I don't know if you have used one or not but the number of failures I have witnessed means I wouldn't ever buy one. bosch pumps well they have had a lot of bad press too with failures. some of that came from copy pumps being sold, and I think some was down to poor installation how much was actual poor quality pumps I don't know. but I do know this. I have never heard of one single nismo pump failure. granted there may not be as many out there, but still....
  21. the standard oil pressure gauge is rubbish. if you are spending money on gauges then oil pressure should be one of those gauges. it's not so much that they are unreliable, but they are VERY slow to re-act and often a fair whack innacurate too.
  22. actually that's not really true AFR is vitally important. but any gauge that uses the stock sensor can only tell your AFR between about 14:1 and 13:1 so it's absolutely useless for anything other than steady state crusing. if you are thinking about a wideband sensor and proper AFR display then sure go for it, but I'm pretty sure that's not what we are talking about here. BHDAVE has some good points. yes I rarely look at boost gauge now, but in the initial set-up and testing of the car it's very important. oil pressure is most important by far. I have mine set to record for my first two laps at any track and I have a warning buzzer, and a big shift light type warning light for it. water temp, I can see your point, but I found PFC is ok for me even on track, and if things start to go bad the stock idiot gauge will start to ramp up towards H around 100 degrees or so.
  23. haha, digital speedo is no problem. don't forget japanese cars have had digital odometers since the early 90s/late 80s even. so it's hardly new. my 1993 soarer has one. and people selling cars at auction have been winding back speedos to get a higher grading for many, many years. skizo, if you bought a car, with 14,000kms without log books then I can almost promise it has many more kms and probably more than one owner. there are often some clues as to car history, but the only proof is log books. doesn't mean you didn't get a really nice, mint condition car though. I just owned a 1993 R32 GTR. this thing was immaculate. looked as good or better than some crazy 40 or 50,000km 32 GTRs I've seen. I mean it was like a trip back in time to 1993. window seals all good, steering wheel not worn at all. seats nice, suspension good, no rattles etc etc. but it had 100,000kms... and yes it had books for those kms, but without the books it could probably pass for a car with 50 or 60,000kms.
  24. ok, if you already have boost, and oil temp then you need oil pressure. the common air fuel guages using the stock sensor are about as useful as a screen door on a spaceship so forget that idea. water temp is not so important either and if you have a Power FC it will display it anyway. the most crucial gauges in order of importance are: oil pressure boost oil temp fuel pressure water temp ext temp air fuel is not on this list as it doesn't even really rate as a gauge. more of a flashy thing to keep passengers occupied.
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