Beer Baron

lol, you fcked up now kabab! like i predicted on page 2, andrew is going to have your nutsack for this.

10psi is so little as to almost be discounted as operator error. there are a lot of variables that can affect the reading. 1. what type of gauge (screw in, or push in?) 2. what brand of gauge (snap-on vs hop sing for example) 3. who is doing the test (mechanic vs ammatuer) 4. who is reading the numbers off the gauge! bad eyesight could make a difference 5. what is the condition of the cars battery (weak battery can give poorer results) 6. is the engine hot or cold? (cold results will be lower) 7. were they all tested the same way? (same number of revolutions? battery condition good througout all tests?) from memory the factory spec is for a test at 'operating temp' so if they spec 160psi at operating temp and this test was done cold then it would be spot on factory spec. even still a drop of 10psi from 160-150 you would be hard pressed to notice much (if any) HP difference. the main thing to worry about is variance. in this case it's within spec. the outright number is not so important as it's not so repeatable (for the reasons above). obviously within reason (ie you would be worried if they were all 90psi).

yes! definately get the sump off before handing over any decen cash for it. 88mm bore is not a positive selling point, it's a negative. and off the top of my head the largest pistons HKS make atm is 87.5mm I can check later as I have the 2007 goods master at home. increasing the bore but leaving the stroke does not get the same result as the stroker kits. sure they may both be 2.7 litre or 2.8 litre but the capacity does not tell the whole story. further increasing the bore whilst leaving the stroke the same will reduce some of the low down punchiness of the engine but yes it should make more power high in the rev range. this is why when you want more capacity in an RB26 you go longer stroke. also 88mm bore is the absolute limit of what you can bore a 26 to safely and at 88mm bore the engine is no longer really suitable for big revs or big power as the cylinders are now quite thin (weak). for big power you want to be using 86 or 86.5mm.

there is no such thing as an HKS 2.7 litre crank. and as for the '2.7 litre pistons' in what way are they 2.7 litre pistons? pistons size doesn't equal capacity. it's bore X stroke which is the deciding factor in the CCs (yes obviously head combustion chamber size makes a difference but we are not changing heads). HKS use the same pistons in 2.6 litre kits and their 2.8 litre kits. if you want an 2.8 litre then you will need new crank and new rods. your current pistons should be fine (just make sure you match the pin size - ie don't get 22mm rods if you don't currently have 22mm pins which is unlikely).

10psi variance is nothing to worry about. it's normal. i must say damn it's clean underneath. far cleaner than mine is underneath i'm ashamed to say. very cheap car for what it is.

i think we've all established now that these are HKS GT-SS. as for evading tax. it's illegal. so it doesn't get discussed here.

well i can fix that problem. time for a little whore thread renewal perhaps? out with the old, in with the new.

yeah, there are two versions of R34 N1s. one has .42 comp and .64 ex, the other has .60 comp and .64 ex. one is basically a GTSS, the other is basically a 2530. I'm not sure which one Russ is using.

spoke to fatz the other day. he said he's ironing his lace panties on the 16th so he can't make it.

and i'm guessing it's the reason (well one of the reasons) you are going back to N1s from the 2530s. I personally am having a terrible time making up my mind between the SS and the 2530s. things for the SS: the are $500 cheaper than 2530s they will be more responsive things against them: i'll have the same set-up as 90% of GTRs out there (yes I'm a wanker and like to be different) the 2530s can make more power, and so many quick japanese GTRs are using them i may need a fair whack more boost to achieve the same airflow (power) compared to 2530s. but my power aim is between 320 and 360rwkw. with as much response as possible. it's a tough one.

you will need a minimum or PC or NC or NR to import a race only car. but have you checked the requirement of a NC licence? you will need to compete in a minimum number of competetive events each year and we are not talking track days or supersprints. we are talking state series like historics, or improved production, or combined touring, or prod sports etc etc. have a look at the cams website but from memory the minimum number is 8 events per year which means at least $10K spent just on those 8 events, not including buying and prepping the car, and the licence costs.

hi mate, go to SSCC and fill out the forms. I'm not sure if you will make it. but people often pull out, so ask if you can be put on reserve. then it's just turn up on the day and hope for the best. i've done it successfully before. forgot the link. www.sscc.org.au

yes I agree sydney drivers on the whole suck. it's infuriating.

lol, there is no circlip. you just unscrew that big nut. and yes there is a special tool. you should have got it with the wheels, or with the car. BUT you can do it with your hands, or a really big shifter, or a hammer and chisel! (not ideal).

sure you can fit dumps without removing the turbos. you can probably rebuild your engine without removing it from the car too, but that doesn't mean it's the way to go. the fastest simplest way to fit dumps = turbos off. no question. trying to fit the dumps with the turbos still firmly attached to the manifolds will probably take nearly double the time if you just removed them in the first place.

they are definately not the HKS turbos. there have been reports of people OS selling different garret turbos as HKS ones. Just kidding. I have seen SS that do not have the HKS stamped into the casting. don't worry about it

yeah, not needed for this, but as ports says it's a good idea anyway as there are no marshalls at these days which means if your car catches on fire all you'll be able to do is stand there and watch it burn. i reccomend the BFI 1kg one. if puts out 4 times as much "stuff" as the other 1 kilo ones I've seen and owned.

yeah your pads are about 50% worn. you can bend that wear indicator out of the way if you want, but it's there for a reason. i would personally just buy new pads, but for street use you could get a fair few more kms out of those if the $$ are tight. i wouldn't use them on track though.

well if you don't have camber adjustment that is ruled out straight away. castor, get as much as possible until either A: you run out of adjustment or B: your tyre starts fouling the front of the guard liner front toe, I would suggest maybe 1.8mm each side toe OUT. rear toe I would suggest 0mm.

yep, just what's in the picture i posted (X2). so not the full GTR kit. sorry.

that actually looks pretty cool. what kind of fenders are they?

damn, if only my admin powers extended to your pdf! "southern fairys" indeed!

in recliners you will be hard pressed to find anything of nice quality that is larger than the seats you have now. fixed back is another story. most race seats come in a "GT" version which is wider to suit the 'ample gentleman'. yes, my cobra evolution is the GT version....lol

so what are they like? i'm guessing they will be better than mine, but by how much?

and tj, since i see you reading, don't worry about anyone being home tonight. Jess has kindly said I can drop the payload off to her.