XKLABA

From what I could find the Neo turbo exhaust cam is [email protected] @115 LCA Which I wouldn't change unless going for 10mm plus lift

Given the top arms mount to the strut tower they do a little bit, a very little bit Put some spacers under it like Bob already said It's the back that is absolutely point less

Ok so I have actually just done this now, I think I wrote that wrong, you don't touch the bolt on plates that the bolt goes through, just the elongated hole in the actual arms The holes in the plates is offset and when you put the offset to the inside as far as it can go the elongated hole in the arm doesn't go far enough so you have to elongate it about half a hole more, I have pics but can not post them on the forum with the 6 plus for some reason, if your interested PM me your number and I will text them across to you PS, what cams do you have in there at the moment ?

[email protected], you bloody lucky SR owners, that is a profile I dream about for my 26 heads Advancing the exhaust cam increasing overlap will give a higher dyno reading but what does that do for the 1/4mile dyno, MPH I never advance exhaust, I always retard it cause overlap mean very little compared to what happens at the other end

The NEO turbo exhaust cam has a better profile the the stock 26 exhaust cam, 5-6 deg retard and leave it

Type As are 252 in and ex Type Bs are 260 in and ex http://www.rhdjapan.com/tomei-camshafts-poncam-rb25de-t.html

I found the stock specs of the NEO turbo cams, they aren't to bad from factory, I'd start at 7 deg advanced on intake and 5 deg retarded on exhaust and tune from there Otherwise the 252s would be better for response then the 260s Just realised you have VCT on inlet so no adjusting there

Lol, that sounds like it has a good story behind it Do tell

Under the car

How did you go with this Eric? Sorted yet, what diff did you get to replace the A-LSD ?

Haha, who broke Paulies car

I have made my Weldon as quite as I can and it would be as loud as 3 044s running at full noise I looked at the 1100-a but they weren't E85 rated back then, don't know about now

Powertune for $1500 sounds good, mine cost me $1350 delivered, but we where smashing them ATM exchange wise, like $1.30

Looking good, I have seen a few fail on the race cars, one ripped the diff housing off the sump I got my Quaife from Palmsdale NZ, wasn't $1800 If you are taking the valves out, get a spark plug socket with the magnet inside, sit it square on the retainer and give it a good quick hit with a hammer

The whole lot was the deposit, have to pay up front then wait 4 months or more for it to get here It's ok for me my car is still running, but poor Paully has to sit and wait Hopefully not to much longer now mate, if Paully wants to post the price he can

Thanks Sin, but I know the RB26 specs, its the RB25 ones I have no deers eyes about and am after, I have never had anything to do with the 25 cause well frankly it's not a 26

Thanks Paully What are the specs of both stock and the 252, advertised duration, lift and LCAs May as well get the 260 as well

http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Ptriffitt/media/866FE882-D5CD-41AE-9988-94F6E6A306B9_zpseiv9vcjy.jpg.html My 32 This graph was from 2007 with an unopened motor Stock turbos Stock cams Stock injectors Stock intercooler and pipe work Adjusted cam gears Z32 AFMs with APexi filter kit CES factory style dump pipes and front pipe HKS super Dragger cat back Walbro 255 intank APexi Power FC Exedy twin plate

The FC can't do this, I would be a little suprised if even the top Haltech could do it, interested to know if it can for sure Easiest way with the FC is get a 36-2 trigger wheel with the missing teeth @ 85deg after TDC and the convertor box from Ross to convert the trigger wheel signal to what the FC will read, can also be used with stock and Nistune ECUs

Looking good, should pull it up ok How does it go when you put the upright into the hub ? When your next trackday ?

Lol, so which one do you use, the sequential pattern and give it away or the stock pattern and hope they don't check it

I have 2 x 1mm in my RB2630 and prefer to use 2 as using just one and blocking the other creates a permanent air pocket under the bung

Lol, there's legal and then there's getting caught Good question, don't know, didn't think there was a rule against them

I have had the 3.0 in my 34 making 400kw+ for near a year now with two trips to the drags and a trackday at EC with no issues, but I am very mechanically sympathetic This is a debate I had with Paully for ages when he was going to go the PPG, by the time you pay for the PPG set and have it fitted and you really need to have the Billet mid plate, you are better off saving a bit more and getting the sequential, unless there is a class restriction that requires a H pattern in which case the PPG box is the one to have The problem with the aftermarket gearsets is they still go into a casing that wasn't designed to take that much power and flexes and due to size can't run bigger diameter gears, where the OS88 has 88mm centers and is purpose built to take upto 1500hp plus you get much faster gear changes, especially with shift cut setup

If you are only going to run GT-SSs and no more, source a Getrag and 3.545 diff gears, much nicer to drive and plenty strong enough for the power a 2.6 with GT-SSs can put out