89CAL

I get home tuesday night. No worries man. Hope it helped

No to the RIGHT of the rear knock sensor in the photo. You can just see the plug, its a bit hard in the flat black finish but best I can do, cant seem to circle it in photobucket Don't have a build thread, been thinking about it, but to lazy so far Its only a GTS-t

Not the best photo but you can see it just to the right of the rear knock sensor

Yes Should be a plug in it. Just near the filter. Bit to the rear of it

Ummm the guys at FC-Hako do repairs on them There's also a place in Sydney but cant remember who.....

If your keeping the oil cooler it will be fine. If your getting rid if it you need the filter stud out of an RB30

Keen for Kimi domination in Hungry. Vettel to crash out. Championship made interesting again

You require 1000hp? Or you want 1000hp?

Middle and right gears are the ones you need, go on like this. From memory there is a cutout bit on the back where the dowel slots into:

Isnt that for the IACV piping? You will need that if so BOV location is difderent on RB25 crossover pipe compared to RB20 but not that mych different

VCT assy, spring, washer, bolt, cover, small bolts..... what have you tried so far

Thats another thing, are you following a procedure to torque them up or just torquing them up front front to back etc. Theres probably a pattern to torque the bolts up

What do you mean they work in reverse? 5th is reverse and reverse is 5th? I don't quite get it sorry As for the issue with taking off and dying, sounds more like an engine problem then a Transmission problem to me More info?

Ummm not to sure what the actual colour is lol. I sent a sample of Ford Ego and this matches pretty well

Pretty nice 34. But anyway, took another photo of my cam cover the other day in the light to show the finish a bit better

Do you have the standard jack with the little cut out piece that jacks on the side rail of the car? The correct way to jack the car, as far as I kno, is to jack the car and stand it with stands that have an attatchement very similar to the jack top. I've seen it somewhere, they show the adapters and supporting it on 4 sides on the rail Now I know your not going to have them or really want to aquire/make some. So I always jack the front from the crossmember and stand on the crossmember further out. At the back, jack from the diff and stand where the lower control arm meets the body (from memory) not sure if this is the answer your looking for but thats how I do it (This is for an R33 BTW, R32 could be different)

Anyone know who owns a silver R34 with GOT34 on the number plates? think they waved at me the other day while I was in a sleep deprived state and the number plate seems familiar.....

You know he has already run the wiring for the sensor right?

If you take the shifter out and the boots off its easy to run up into the cab that way, then just put it all back in taking care not to crush the cable But Where you have run it is fine, Shouldn't have an issue, just a bit longer distance for it to travel.

Another: IMG_4903 by 89CAL, on Flickr

baulk springs, retainers I think they are, replace them as well. Just make sure its done right because they can fall out It's not an easy job and don't even attempt it if you dont have a GOOD (really, not just any old) puller kit and might need an oxy set or something to heat the gears up. One of them is a bitch to get off from what I remember Having re-read your post thought maybe you are getting someone to do all the work, in which case go for it, just make sure its not going to cost more then just replacing the box

Auto?

I don't think It would be easy to explain how the car is to drive. I can't imagine what it would feel like to have that sort of response and power Would love to take one for a drive Would feel unreal I bet I'll just see what mine feels like for the moment anyway, should be fast enough once E85 is available on pump here.

I Fed the harness up through the Shifter hole around the boot/boot holder. Just had to bend the steel boot holder a tiny bit so it didnt squash the harness. No issues at all The shifter is only a rod into the gearbox, so theres no linkages etc around there, if you run it smart then theres no issues.

Air is more compressable then fluid, and would make the gauge read lower if anything. So that is not the problem So restriction or FPR issue I say. I would pull the FPR off and just have a look at the ports and everything just in case theres something silly going on there