89CAL

First go at one of these, Not enough traffic to make it easy for me lol IMG_4892 by 89CAL, on Flickr

Tonights Efforts: IMG_4892 by 89CAL, on Flickr IMG_4863 - Copy by 89CAL, on Flickr I missed a spot in the second photo, looks pretty obvious now but maybe it was just to late when I was playing with photos lol

World Champions stand. Was there this year, up the back this time. Was right in the front row this year which was alright but everyone walked past all the F$&@#$@# time which meant you had to move your legs all the time Just wonder if the dates are locked in now that Melbourne isn't round 1 anymore. I'd like to look into accom soon but cant really do so till the date is set in stone

Yeah this is how I read it, but someone said before that at stock Fuel pressure the injectors wouldnt actually be flowing 1000cc, wasn't sure if I was missing something. All good Is there something restricting the FPR fuel return flow or inlet flow? What sort of Reg is it?

So the bank account has just taken a hit and I've finally booked my Tickets for the 2014 Melbourne Formula 1 Grand Prix. Only been saying I will do that for about 2 months

They are grease packed bearings yeah?

You arent dont the right bearing as well? I was going to say do it and then see if you have the same issue then you will know its a bearing problem On Nissan Fast it shows a washer at the back of the hub behind the nut then bearing - snap ring - seal - hub Thats about all the help I can give, having never done wheel bearings on my car

Yeah I meant 'Like' the one I linked to sorry. Same setup but with an actuator and a boost line

Track condition, temps etc will have something to do with it. Hard to say how much however. But seen as they were on different days I don't know if it will be quite as bad as it looks on paper. Must be hard driving 2 different cars in the same day. Wasn't entirely shocked that he was slower in the Red Bull considering it wouldnt be set up for him or even designed with him in mind. So yeah hard to really say, hopefully its not a cross against Dan's name

Similar to this idea? http://www.nengun.com/apexi/exhaust-control-valve

Using a photo from Melbourne earlier this year at the moment, must be due for a change soon: IMG_4071 by 89CAL, on Flickr

Sorry if I'm missunderstanding that table, but at 43.5psi the injectors look like they flow 1015cc/min. The other numbers are dead time values Am I missing something here?

I'm not to sure about this one. Alot of the times the trailers make the game look like it is going to be amazing fun to play and then for whatever reason they dont deliver. Hoping to be proven wrong, and I'll probably no doubt buy it anyway, but BO2 looked amazing, but didnt deliver as much as MW3 for me. I still play BO2 though, still good fun

If you have a multimeter then check the battery voltage when running with the multimeter in case there is any voltage drop in whatever you are reading the voltage off in the car because it does happen. It should be 14-14.5V, get a mate to rev the car while checking to see if it changes at higher revs to.

Because the stock parts are getting on in age, its not ideal to push them to the limits. Having said that it can be done I would get new injectors (not visible with stock plenum), fuel pump (not visible anyway), High flow turbo (hypergear or similar, wont notice it), boost controller (can be hidden) and computer (wont be seen, not noticable unless you have a hand controller etc) Exhaust is the only thing that will be noticeable but I guess you could always use a X-Force Varex exhaust to keep it quiet. Intercooler - might need an upgraded side mount or black front mount

Most automotive workshops should have a consult tool to plug into the car and check the codes.

When you say the alternator is screeching, do you mean the altenator is screeching or the belt is squealing? The only 2 noise related problems you can have with an altenator are belt loose/worn or the altenator bearings have gone or started to go. Check the basics first because they are cheaper, a new belt (or tightening the belt) is alot cheaper then getting a new altenator As for the starter clicking/sticking then this wont be an altenator issue unless the charge is down. If you have a turbo timer or Power FC Hand controller, set it up so you can see voltage all the time and check the voltage before starting and while starting. If there is low voltage on startup then you either have a stuffed battery or the altenator isnt charging. If the voltage drops from 12(ish) volts to below 8V (from memory) then you will have a battery problem.

Try this : http://justskylines.com/knowledgebase/images/wiring/rb25diagram.jpg The TPS analog and digital sensors are at the bottom. Could probably match your wire colours with the plug positions on the diagram and see if yours are the wrong way around? if you unplug them does it make a difference?

Yes this ^ ^ ^ ^ I make the same power you have at the moment with full boost of 18psi around 3200rpm, Just to show you how much of a mismatched combo that turbo is for the power you want. Go look in the hypergear thread or the RB25 turbo results thread to find a better turbo more suited to the power you want.

An old Schwitzer hey. I rebuilt an excavator engine with a Schwitzer turbo on it a few years ago. That turbo was a bit bigger however, about 40kg Just remember how funny the name was when you say it with some sort of European accent

Put the stock one back before you go wasting money on re-sleeving. Because esentially you have a bigger slave that you are going to engineer back towards standard size Understand if the standard slave holds (as a number exaggerated for the purpose of this example) 1L and the nismo holds 2L of brake fluid and the master puts out 100ml of travel per cm then you will understand why its doing what its doing.

Nismo slave is bigger then the standard slave, and it looks like you are still using the same master cylinder. This means that the master cylinder is possibly not putting out enough oil volume to fill the nismo slave cylinder enough to have proper pedal travel. I would say put the standard slave back on or buy a nismo master cylinder

Sounds like the altenator wasnt the original problem but it may be an issue now. Got a multimeter? Start the car and check the voltage and report back. battery terminal glowing red is not good. Is there any voltage at all out of the battery? If it is not a sealed battery check the fluid levels. If one or more look like they have no liquid in them then it might be a battery issue.

Do you have some spare fuel line lying around that you can run from the FPR outlet to a large container/bucket, then start the car and see if theres a different in fuel pressure. It's not the safest way to do it but will give you an answer as to wether it is the FPR or return line that is causing the issue. Obviously be careful if you decide to do this because of fuel vapours and stuff, probably best to do it outside But yeah if you use the largest size fuel line that will fit on the Reg then you should have no restriction there. I can't say I've ever heard the return line being a problem, but thats not to say it isnt the problem.

3 is the stock map sensor (for boost gauge) bolts. I can do a rough measure later if u want. 4 looks like the throttle cable support bracket, I guess you could call it. It just keeps the throttle cable from travelling to far AFAIK