KiwiRS4T

^^^what he said. Not necessarily the cheapest around but certainly none better. Then go to Soichi at ST Hitec for an HKS ecu and a tune!

Nismo. But better still put the money in your savings account for a GTT

If you have access to a timing light and can borrow a known good CAS you can quickly eliminate that as a problem (or not). Or there is a tutorial on here on how to clean your IAC valve.

Compression ratio of better than 9:1 would be preferable. Forget about the oil "drain" at the back of the head and find the oil control thread on this site and read say the last 10 pages.

Needs more boost!! Good to see it going ( I too cannot understand why some people show mph instead of rpm). My guess is the final figure will be between 400 and 500 awkw - anywhere in that range should do!

Its not just weird its not good enough - change them!

I found the catch can alone ( in conjunction with the sump to catch can lines) ok ...I like the idea of an air/oil separator to catch any fumes that get past the catch can before they are fed into the turbo intake but with a properly baffled catch can you "should" be ok.

Somebody makes kits for just that job - not replacement suspension but just a booster for getting into parking buildings etc. I'll have a look but last saw it a few years ago. Had a quick Google and BC actually make one (not the one I saw before but...) called Aircup

John is running a piggyback because he has an S1 which cannot be Nistuned. Nistune is by far the cheapest and best option for you short of getting a manual box.

I have heard of people having problems with Gates belts but not with OEM (although no doubt there are lots of people who haven't had problems with their Gates belts!).

Why go to the trouble and expense of trying to piggyback a PFC when you could just get a Nistune chip?

Buy Ben's Manual ECU even with the right Nistune chip won't work. Power FC won't work with auto.

Nice install Nathan but cooler needs ideally to have fittings to top or will work with fittings to side but upside down can result in airlock which means that some or much of the cooler is not working.

If you are not tracking it stock brakes with some decent pads and new brake fluid should do it. Good to hear that motor goes! Almost there!

Wow that's quite a few disagreements! So we are talking about a 500 kw at the wheels build? 2. If you do need a bigger sump the Racefab sump (from Christchurch NZ) offers better clearance. 3. For a street car you don't want two Bosch 044s - they are so noisy. You may need two intank pumps - not sure the Walbro is good for 500kw. If you do need a surge tank you could find a location under the car. 4. Read the oil control thread on this site (or at least the last ten pages). You will need at least a catch can possibly with an air/oil separator but plumbed back into the turbo intake, not vented to atmosphere. 5. You want a 4in system right through, not narrowing to 90mm anywhere. I would run a central resonator with a muffler at the end but you might want two mufflers. With the right mufflers it should not be too loud. 6. Of course you should plumb your wastegate into the exhaust for a street car.

Don't even think about fender mirrors. You will have a tiny field of vision from them. There's a reason they don't put them there anymore! As for deleting the passenger side mirror - words fail me! If you really hate them so much get some Ganador mrrors.

If you follow the tread on the same subject further down you will se that Getrag say to use the Dextron II because the seals do not like modern synthetics Poster there is buying Toyota T IV which presumably fits the bill.

Read the pinned thread at the top of this section by SydneyKid: Shockabsorber 101

Not grease - special lube.

Have you read the big PDF in the first post in the RB30 conversions section? If you can get the right combination of head and cams to have VCT operating that would be worthwhile.

Water leak is not the problem - you can fix that. N1 pump is made to work at high revs so unless you are planning to regularly rev your RB30 to 8000 you are better off with a stock RB25 pump (or possibly the stock RB30 - not sure, never seen one).

^^^what he said. My system is similar to yours but instead of the centre muffler I have a straight through resonator similar to the one pictured: (and my end muffler is 3in straight through all the way).

Ideally you do the important part of the run in by starting it up on a dyno - then you can apply load as necessary and adjust the tune so that its fit to take out on to the road (or track).

I had a Just Jap return flow (probably not quite as good as the Blitz) and it pretty much topped out at 240 kw, Got an Hybrid HDi cross flow (and an RB30 etc etc) and it has taken me to 314AWKW @ 1.5bar

My system is staright through 3in with a 3in straight through resonator in the middle and a Japanese muffler at the rear. I had to look a long time for a Jap muffler that didn't have a "waist" where it stepped down to 2 1/2in in the middle or just before the tip. It is just legal (has a cert) but at 2000 is not too noisy and does not drone on the motorway.