KiwiRS4T

If you read the RB30 thread you will know that stock rods are very substantial. You should get new bolts for them though.

NZ Performance can also get you the 9:1 Your choice - you'll get more power with the higher comp.

Use mineral oil for run in which should take 30 -60 minutes. Push it hard and lift off alternately watching for overheating and or leaks. Otherwise you will end up with glazed bores which will give poor compressions and use oil.

Have you read the RB conversion guide in the first thread in the RB30 section?: http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf That has almost everything you need to know. Where abouts are you? Make sure you order the H/c pistons (9:1 not 8.2:1)

You're not paying for the input you're paying for the ability to analyse the input - other similar products are $1000 or more. If you want a cheaper product this is less than 1/3 the price: http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/knocklink_g4

Having seen the pics the Rawbrokerage item is worlds away from the cheap ebay stainless manifolds that do crack and fail. Has your mechanic seen an actual Rawbrokerage manifold that has failed? So much idle gossip in this business but seeing is believing. And slightly off topic that Top Cat car seems to be running one of the few 3.4L equipped RB30s! (want one for my car).

Yep that was Sub boy - a fellow Skylines Downunder member who lives near the Link factory. I would trust him but fair enough if you don't want to.

You mean like this (EFI is an authorised Link Reseller): http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-744795118.htm

Well sorry to be boring but here's mine (again):

This is 2014 not 1860 - they have airplanes now - you could have it in 3 - 5 days!!!

This is a bargain if it is still for sale: http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=68240

Get some speed up without boosting in say 3rd or 4th and then (preferably on a long down hill (if you have such a thing where you are) take your foot of the throttle and after a few seconds floor it. A big puff of smoke will suggest oil being sucked past the rings. But compression test to confirm. If you have poor compressions no catch can will restore lost power - start saving for engine out!

That switch locks the awd system in to 50/50 front rear mode. It is handy for pulling boats out of the water or getting out of a wet paddock but it will be pretty clunky around a sealed car park when making turns. If you leave it on the attessa ecu overrides it once you get over about 20 km/hr and resumes action as normal i.e. 5/95 split front rear until the sensors detect slip.

Is your car manual or auto? Did the S1 have VCT? You might need an appropriate ecu (and loom?)to make it work. But if you shorted the terminals on the starter and it wouldn't turn over then something more basic is wrong. Does battery still have enough charge? Is it properly earthed? Starter motor is not jammed?

In my view it's completely redundant. Try and sell it to someone who believes it's useful.

This is the only pic I have - you can see the waterline has been taken from a tap in the hose outlet which also serves to help locate the outlet:

Try Dan from Cockram Nissan first. I know of a couple of C34s wrecking in Auckland (and elsewhere).

You'll have to do more than up your boost to hit 300hp. Why not just get an RB25 (preferably a Neo) and go from there?

Yes Sinco Customs make quality gear. Without a side by side comparison it is hard to judge but I suspect price and quality will be similar to 6 Boost. http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/products

Good idea. I know someone with a 10 second R32 who is annoyed that stockish R35s are competitive with his car round a track!

6 should be fine gap to 0.8mm

The answers are all in the thread. If you get it wrong you could blow your engine. I could spell out what to do but your next question could (and should be) "why?". .. and then I would have to re-type miles of stuff that I and others have already contributed. You need not only to know what to do but to know why you are doing it so that you are happy with your decisions. Probably the last third of the thread should give you the picture and in fact there is a summary of the important points towards the end somewhere. I suspect that you are too lazy to read it properly but if you genuinely have a comprehension problem (difficulty understanding what you have read) I apologise. In that case send me a PM and I will PM you some info.

Spend some time reading the thread and decide for yourself. I have 2 x 1.0mm Why would you put a 3mm restrictor in a half inch hose? If you have oil coming through there you need to address the problem. Answers are in the thread.

No for the same engine speed you will be going faster but the difference will be slight. Its only your speedo that will be different - the tacho will still tell you how fast your crank is spinning. You can calculate it if you measure the outside circumference of the old and new tyres and get the difference as a percentage - your speed will pretty much increase by that same percentage.

Why would you want to do such a thing?