KiwiRS4T

Well personally I would have though it was obvious that the higher the compression ratio the higher the expected compression test result . The value of the compression test for measuring wear depends on knowing the original compression so as above if the stock factory figure was 170 psi then yes 130 psi indicates a lot of wear which can be confirmed with a leakdown test. My engine had 130 psi compression when built because of the choice of pistons (CR about 8:1) and leakdown test is within limits at 5%

I don't think its the combination of parts - I have a BM57 M/c (although I have ABS) R32GTR rear brakes and D2s at the front with a M/C stopper braided brake lines and Motul brake fluid and pedal is good first time. I think you need to look for a fault as suggested above.

Re aftermarket ecus in general I just know that the guy who installed my Link said he had to run a wire from the TPS for the Attessa but sorry can't tell you more!

Must be ok up to a point - I haven't got an aftermarket radiator I just got a new stocker c/w plastic top and thrash it round the track only 310awkw but it doesn't get hot at all.

Drive it a bit longer - drive another Skyline with 300kw (which can be made reliably) and see if you will still be happy with 200kw. Then settle on a figure and save for the mods! See the turbo upgrade threads at the top of this page to see what you need for the various power goals.

Hi Hugh - we have a good Nissan dealer over here so that would be my first port of call but if the parts you want are too expensive there have been quite a few people wrecking Stageas on this forum so you should be able to get what you need. If you have no luck at all I can get the bits from a wrecker here.

It would help if you say where you are!

What do you want it to do? That turbo will get you a high maximum power reading on the dyno but may not perform as you would like on the street or track. I have a GT3540R on an RB30 and have a .63 rear on it which gives it great pickup at the cost of top end power. The same turbo on an RB25 would not be as good and something like a GT3076X could suit unless you are building a drag car.

Use the Neo or Stagea ecu - it will run the vct for you - as Marcus was saying people only use Z32 ecus on R33s because there is no Nistune for R33 .

Here's a quote from our local engine builder http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/p/sale.html : Nissan RB Bronze Valve Guides The factory RB26 valve guides will happily stand up to the factory hp levels as they’re only made from cast iron. Once you start to up the power levels & push the car beyond 7000rpm they begin to develop hair line cracks & will soon destroy themselves, along with your valve stems. Fitting a set of bronze valve guides will give engine reliability to levels 7000rpm & beyond. Price: $480 NZD inc GST (set)

One of these maybe? http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1203_transmission_controllers_tested/

buy from Scott

No not stock ecu. I went through a lot of stages - would have been cheaper to go manual and Link G4 but first stage was Jaycar boost controller, Apexi SITC for timing and an Apexi SAFC for fuelling and another gadget to defeat the 180 speed limit. stage 2 was an R32 ecu with a tailor made chip piggy backed on to my stock ecu and then (should have done it first) manual GTR box and G4 Link ecu. If you want to keep the auto best option is a Greddy E-Manage (or HKS piggyback unit if you have an HKS tuner nearby) or get Toshi on this forum to make you a chip (he has to supply and fit a new daughterboard to your ecu and I believe then only he can tune it ...make a new chip)

These are popular here but freight might kill it for you: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-654508309.htm

I was keen to hang on to my auto as long as possible but just 240awkw seemed to accelerate its demise. Contact Mike at MV Automatics for mods (although I believe there is another shop somewhere that does beef up autos). If you blow the auto you should be able to buy another one for $100 - $150 (I gave mine to the scrap dealer). Having said that I now have a GTR box and much prefer it except when stuck in traffic.

Read the oil control thread or if you don't want to read all of it just the first few and last 10 pages say. The Tomei pump should not fail but it can empty your sump. The restrictor will help. The head "drain" will not but if you are going to fit it the exhaust side is preferred. The enlarged sump is also good insurance against engine failure...although the price looks high - are there alternatives? I would recommend drilling and tapping two holes as high as possible in the inlet side which you can plug if you are not going to run breathers. That way if you do decide you need breathers later you won't have to pull the engine and remove the sump.

^^^ Yep I had that problem once. If you disconnect the sensor the ecu has a default map that will keep you running til you get a new one. You don't say where you are. Don't keep throwing money at it - find a mechanic/workshop familiar with RBs and get them to have a look before you buy stuff on spec.

Sorted thanks!

Thanks for that!

I have seen a nice pair of leather seats out of an S15 - anyone know if S15 has the same base as R32 R33 (and therefore C34 Stagea)?

I have seen a nice pair of leather seats out of an S15 - anyone know if S15 is the same as R32 R33 and therefore C34 Stagea?

Don't go cheap on the pistons - I did and compression is way down. Pretty sure the headgasket will be fine.

http://www.spoolimports.com/products/cp-pistons They keep 9:1 in stock for RB30s

Get pistons so that you can increase the compression ratio to better than 9:1 and do the rod bolts.

I run 6deg caster cornered great with 3deg neg front camber and 1.5 deg rear (that's on a Stagea mind you).