KiwiRS4T

If you're talking about the shroud for the SMIC then if it isn't exactly the same (it may be) I'm sure you can make it fit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69501-r34gtt-intercooler-into-stagea/

Try Google translator or similar. Mines make good stuff and charge an arm and a leg for it. You might find the ecu is not tunable though.

If you mean will it increase the value of the car by the amount of money you spend on the kit plus fitting and painting then no. If you like it and you can afford it then go for it.

I had a SAFC and also a SITC and a speed limit removal device all because I had an auto Stagea - lot of stuffing around - then I got a GTR box and a proper ecu and never looked back!

S1 Stagea is same as yours - S2 (neo engine) Stagea will be a small upgrade.

Good on ya - do it yourself and learn (and hopefully save a few bucks as well).Yes Poncams will be fine but you need a proper ecu before you go much further (SAFC won't do) Check with Nistune but I think you need a particular Z32 ecu and then a Nistune chip for it to make it tunable. You won't get too much boost from a GCG highflow - you should use whatever it can make - 16-17 psi - why are you afraid of boost? You'll probably need a Z32 afm some bigger injectors and a FMIC as well.

Is the spacer steel? Does it have a gasket above and below it?

I use what comes to hand: petrol and an engine brush but rinse it all away with the hose.

Its fairly easy to drop the sump. The filter is steel so no need to buy a new one just take it out and clean it. You're not wasting good fluid - that's how much is in there (mainly in the torque converter)!

Link and possibly other aftermarket ecus will do that (assuming that you have the appropriate sensors).

If you're new to turbos you will find heaps of guys telling you what to do - some informed and some completely clueless. Try to spend some time reading through the forced induction section and the sticky on RB25 turbo upgrades to get some idea of where to go and beware! Modifying starts with a few hundred dollars and ends up consuming thousands!! Best first step is a 3in turbo back exhaust. Cheaper is a high flow panel for your stock filter box (if you haven't already got a pod) Also cheap is a modest increase in boost to 10 psi (free or cheap T) You don't need a new fuel reg or bov unless either is patently faulty. If you come across an unfamiliar term or want to know how something works Google is your friend!

Should have checked that before you bought them! Have a read in the suspension section - there is a heap of info. Also Google "what is offset" and "how to measure offset". Personally I would think the diameter is too much - 20in wheels dictate that you have extremely low profile tyres which will detract from ride comfort and give little protection to the rims. Also you need 255 on the front and 285 on the rears - and when you find out what they are going to cost please do the decent thing and sell the rims and buy some better suited ones rather than buy cheap and nasty tyres that are too small and stretch them on like some do.

NZ$345 a set? Seems suspiciously cheap.^^^as above put a set of new copper plugs in and if that doesn't fix it tell Osaka you want to send the coil packs back.

Drpping the sump won't do it. Take off a cooler pipe and run the engine till you have filled a 2 L container. Pour 2L of pref synthetic atf down the (auto) dipstick holder. Repeat until the new fluid comes out - you will need about 12L so probably buy a 20L container.

Where would pressure come from if the pump is off?

Is your CAS a Hitachi (or a Mitsubishi which would be an R33 one)?

Should be fine for another 100,000

The little green one is the fuse and the big black one is the relay

You have to use a spacer to join the RB30 block to the awd sump - quite labour intensive. I too have a cheap rebuild although frankly I would have liked to get rebored, forged pistons fully balanced etc. For a cheap build you need rings, bearings and also better rod bolts. Use stock manifolds (although I don't know how much clearance you will have on the Holden) stock exhaust manifold will be fine for 300kw - you can run the w/g off the exhaust housing of the turbo. Use stock T/B and fpr. the decision on re-using parts should be coloured by the difficulty of replacing them if they fail -so water pump and tensioners etc you can use them if they seem ok (but use brand new fixing bolts) but the oil pump is an engine out job and failure could cost you the engine. Depending on price a brand new R33 pump or an N1 with better gears. I picked up a Tomei steel h/g cheap. Run in with cheap mineral oil and then use a quality synthetic from then on.

Over here you can buy a series 2 C34 for that. The insurance company would have written it off with a $7k repair quote.

Have you read the RB30 pdf in the section above? There seems to be some doubt that internal feed for the VCT actually works - I think an appeal for someone who has done it successfully has not yet been answered.

No. Pulling the fuse will stop the pump. Fluid will not escape.

Yes

One tooth out is 7.5 degrees so you should fix it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ Try Google for holding the pulley still. I read something about a way to secure it by winding a rope around it and tying it off somewhere. They all say to use a rattle gun but of course not all of us are so blessed!

Hi Duncan If you go to the stickies and click on any of the DIYs How Tos and FYIs the links don't work. A knowledgeable member (stealth-ish) has described the problem in post #41 and actually fixed all the links in post #45 (near the end of the section). Could you please put that post in place of the old post #1? Thanks!!!!