djr81

Yes but to be fair the furthest you can drive in the UK is what, ten miles? Because the whole of the UK is smaller than Tasmania. So there's that.

Thanks for the offer but with the price of these things and the postage I figured it was better to tidy up what I had. Some new globes and it is much better.

It looks sufficiently warped and or distorted to be genuine. Most of them end up stuffed which is why people go for a reproduction part.

Fitting the 105mm intercooler is not necessarily straight forward from memory you have to cut/trim/remove things. Dont know what the stocker runs out at but its a decent number.

1. In the absence of a larger capacity sump the Tomei baffle is worth having. I ran one on the track for years whilst over filling the sump. 2. Well your set up will either be more suited to E85 or petrol. So if you need to run both then yes you need something other than a power FC. Its much easier to find hp with E85. There are now much better ecus than APexi's 1990 version. 3. Just spend alot of time on ring selection, block preparation/blowby and work out how you are going to run the thing in from the moment it starts up. Oh and no one has said dont waste your money on that intercooler. Also valve springs have you got some? Head gasket?

Coincidently my RB26 started popping I/C hoses and generally being ugly. Same disease. A half torn passenger side engine mount. Looks like it is not uncommon. The tear was where the rubber was glued to the steel - Nismo item too.

Twin turbo pipe or is that what you are calling the crossover pipe?

Well just to finish this off both the mode door actuator and the blend door are now fixed and the Humphrey B Bear is blowing cold.

As above. I am in Western Australia so would need it posted.

Quality mullet. For my ten cents worth if you have the skills fix the head gasket and then sell the car. Of the other things if you can bleed the clutch and get it to work then do that. Same for the power steer, if its an easy fix then fix it.

The only one I have ever seen is the Nismo afm chart. Are there MAF tables in Nistune for those you can use to find an equivalent?

https://www.rycofilters.com.au/Search/SearchResult?make=NISSAN&model=STAGEA&year=2003&liter=

No N1's arent. If you want stock twin bolt up style turbros (And not a single) Garrett do some good work. Have a look at the Garret range 2860's. 707160-7, 707160-9, 707160-5 in order from small to large. By way of random shops. https://justjap.com/garrett-gt2860r-7-twin-turbo-kit-nissan-skyline-gtr.html https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-074&Category_Code=RB26 https://justjap.com/garrett-gt2860r-5-twin-turbo-kit-nissan-skyline-gtr.html

Best bet is find the leak and if, in the unlikely event, it is the line and not something else repalce it with a stock part. But is likely to be a washer or thread.

This is one of the most popular threads on SAU but for my 10 cents worth it is the rings that are the issue not the rest of everything. So before building an engine please think long and hard about the rings and dont just get whatever comes with the pistons.... As an example and for those in Oz I found these folk very good: http://pacificengineparts.biz/

Best guidance is that unless you have an oil or a water leak from the existing lines save yourself the trauma of replacing them with something that wont fit anywhere near as well. Why are you replacing the lines?

The qualifying motors only had to last a lap and the race motors a couple hundred miles. At the end of the previous turbo era they had regulated the boost to be no more than 4 bar, then 2.5 bar with fuel limits. They ended up only good for 500kW or so out of 1.5 litres. The unlimited stuff of 1986 or so had phone numbers for horsepower. If you want to see how Ford (Cosworth) got it wrong there are some good books on the subject. Mostly having Duckworth etc crying about fuel and everything else including compression ratios, turbo sizes etc etc.

Dont be silly. Toluene is good for you.

Some more, minor progress. On the mode door the shaft that locates the worm wheel (the driven gear, not the drive gear) is basically 3.5mm. The next size up drill bit from that was 9/64" but that went straight through the gear. Anyway went to a 5/32" (Which is a bees dick down from 4mm) and drilled the wheel out. Remounted it and the gears now turn. So without knowing how it affects the longevity of the thing I reckon this may be the way to fix your R32 mode door actuator. Hash tag fixie fixie something hashtag. As for the mix door there looks to be a couple (Atleast) dry joints. The mix door doesn't appear to have the same material for the worm wheel either so guessing it is just solder that is the issue.

No. They attach tot he plastic clips on the b pillar.

Just buy some new trim pieces and be done with it. They arent stupidly priced.

Spent the morning pulling the mix door actuator out and replacing the mode door. Prick of a job. Mix door appear to have a couple dry joints in it but by god they are tiny. Will resolder and hope like hell it works again.

Have some 17x9 +20’s in silver if that is of any interest.

So at what point do you get a modern ECU and something like this? https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturetrack-mk2/

Change of shirt for when the ventilation system stops working again. Bag of rags to clean up the oil puked out the RB's breathers. Glue to stick the B pillar trims back together. Knife to stab the bubbles in the dashboard with. Pliers to pick up the broken turbine wheels off the turbochargers (They may still be hot). More rags to clean the back window because the wiper doesnt work any more. Can of spartan air. Your mechanic's (Now best friend) phone number.