okooko

Given your preferences (interior color, power level, price range etc) you might be looking at more examples than the normal buyer would. Given the number of 34's for sale these days you might be looking for a little while to get one that ticks about 80% of the boxes and obviously 100% of the mechanicals/structurals. Depending when you expect to have a car in the garage, I'd just keep and eye out, learn more things to look for after each car you see. When some good ones come up, have a more indepth look but be prepared to move quickly on some. I second buying an NSX.

It would depend solely on the potential buyer. If the buyer is after a mint museum piece for a 14 year old car, then they would turn down any example with repairs. Now that you're armed with the knowledge and you might find the repairs acceptible and send it to a specialist to check the vehicle structurally for safety (as a replaced panel isn't going to be a problem). I used to be picky at everything until I realised that you have to adjust to the age of the car, cant expect any 14 year old car to have a flawless history like a 4-5 year old GTR would. Pricewise will still largely be the same, there will eventually be someone who will accept the repairs and not see it as critical (its not like the car is verging on undrivable) albeit for a slightly lower price but nothing like 40k. I think for $30k it would sell in a matter of days.

agree with above, youll just end up changing the existing mods anyway at some stage. save the money and start from something in good cond.

im in for a set of those clubs.

It's one thing to buy a car to drive and build up at your own pace and another to buy one expecting to do a rebuild. If you budget extends as much then it's worth considering or even worth renegotiating the price slightly if you decide to stay with this one, covering yourself when you rebuild. GL bud.

My 32 with -5's made 287kW rears on 18psi stock motor. So not interested in running more than 18 nor 300 club. I'd rather the non-blown engine club. Seems pretty ok imo. Made about 246 kW on 14psi as well, cant remember if I had changed anything from the 14 to the 18psi runs.

Adelaide 32's reppin! Don't see these around enough lately...

I dont even know how theyre policing modded cars in SA these days, only ever pulled over once at Arndale 5 years ago

Yeah theyre priced around double the R34 GTR plus transfer fees/insurance higher also. Value wise, it's definitely priced well and with all the additional parts you could sell off. There are almost as few r34 gtr's for sale these days as r32 gtrs at least on carsales. See how things weigh up, I'm a technical bloke, I buy with my head and build it with my heart.

undercover 32.

I applaud your plans for the car but just as you said, decide that once you're holding the keys. Hope this is the one for you but just time wasted planning if its not I guess. Not to digress too much but seen your threads about 33/34v35, was dollars the factor in picking the 34 or otherwise?

damn in paying close to 2k/year shannons for a 32 at half that value.... you must live somewhere super safe.

Same here, sent a full check request through (non-express) with no reply yet. Sent on 23/8/15 - yet to hear back, no big deal for me however, I've owned mine for 6 years haha.

but its like +1,000,000 style points.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407595-how-can-i-open-my-boot/ I believe so, check out the above link. I know you can rekey the ignition to match the existing key, but wasn't sure about the rest of the car. Yeah I assumed 20psi and checked with the dyno thread, there was one with -5's and similar mods pulling 350 at 20psi. Get some more photos when you view the car, would be good to see how you follow this one through - daresay if you end up buying this one, i trust that there will be a projects thread?

Yeah had a quick look around SAU, you'll need a new boot lock and have it rekeyed/matched to the rest of the car, pretty much what you said. Hopefully he's kept lots of the paperwork, invoices etc always good to know the history if possible. Is it running around 20lb to make that 340kw on the -5s?

I'm also particularly fussy about the minor marks and scratches etc but over time I've just 50% forgotten about them and realised it's not a museum piece I'm keeping so I'm no longer thinking about that clip that's missing or what not. Dont get me wrong, it's the exact mindset you'd want when buying. As for the boot lock, can you get a new one barrell matched to the existing key? Looks rather tastefully modded and I love the standard interior/engine bay. As for the respray and high Kms, it'll be in fresher condition than any other comparison and seeing the vehicles condition (underside, engine, interior wear etc) wil give you a good indication over the kms on the cluster. Apart from a reluctant sale, has the owner indicated why he's letting it go when he's half way through a rb30 bottom end? When was the last major service? good to know if you're up for one given the kms. Cluster surround marks could have been gauges? hard to see when driving! Yeah agree with above poster, do all the checks you can, and get the right people to see it as that money is money well spent. Call up the workshop that regularly services the car for a chat too, cheap phone calls.

love the black accents on a silver body i.e. meisters, front lip. whens the carbon wing blade coming? would look mad

Got a set of the Superior Auto Creative gear and brake boot in the CF-look style and a nismo duracon shifter. Both took a little massaging and the gear boot needed to be folded to fit my shorter shifter, brake boot was easy.

Why stop at $30k... maybe $50k will be some good money in the bank... lets hope it rises slowly time to up the insurance...

dealer one for 12,990 looks like its sitting in the grass...

On page 1, $400 v1 $450 v2 FRP or $200 more for CF

+1 for R32, standard black/charcoal, no stitching reqd. in Adel too with sskylinee also, so might work out cheaper for shipping those in Adel

Need the 4dr reppin, dont part mate.

yeah been through that too, i swapped out a reo, front bar/lip, n1 headlights... those N1's werent cheap