GTSBoy

Only put grease on parts of the shaft that run in bushes. So, maybe the LH end of that photo. But only if it runs in a bush. If it runs in a rolling element bearing, don't bother. If there is a bush at one end, it is likely bushed at both ends. Ditto bearings. Don't grease the commutator.

Yeah, nah. Daewoo owned by GM, not Holden. Holden at the bottom of the GM pile along with Daewoo. Yeah, nah. Never actually been owned by Japanese. Obtained a lot of stuff from Mitsu though. Yeah, nah here too. Ford and Mazda have tie up. Ford have never been in a position to buy a Korean. The only one you hit the nail on the head with was the Nissan/Renault thing. Nissans have been dirty Renaults for a long long time. Since the end of the golden era, really.

See, this is the bit I don't follow. What gaps? If you're filling gaps between the brushes and the comm bars, ie radial gaps, then the brushes aren't touching the comm bars and you get no connection. Brushes are supposed to wear to rub smoothly on the comm bars. There is no need for lubrication. Graphite is a solid phase lubricant already.

The lack of conductivity is the reason to use dielectric grease. Think about it. Do you realy want a potentially (hah! pun intended!) conductive grease bridging the gaps between commutator bars? No. I didn't think so. Would somewhat defeat the purpose of a comm bar, wouldn't it?

Commutator. Normally use shropping tape (fabric sandpaper) on a lathe to clean those up. Not to worry about rubbing through it with Brasso! Grease is problematic. Maybe dielectric grease, but "making up wear gaps" is not a function that grease fills.

Teflon lined hoses? They shouldn't hold on to any metal bits, because they're pretty smooth. Just a damn good flush with lots of water and possibly then some solvent. If paranoid, you could try to pig them by pushing through something (fabric wads, earplugs, tampons) with a skinny and long enough rod. Or you can attempt to pull them through by attaching same to pull wire that might be easier to pre-thread on a longer hoses. Cooler? Throw it away.

I'd forgotten that Greg had had a bad time with the Jaycar box - I just presumed that it worked. Yes. The answer would be a fairly simple Arduino project. Just need some math to read the frequency of the incoming and generate a new sawtooth wave with the adjusted frequency. Probably wouldn't even have to be that clever to get it done. I imagine that there's lots of example code you could steal, and it wouldn't matter how cludgy or inefficient it was.

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed. Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19. Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19. Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

They've been posted on these and other forums before. The R34 and R33 workshop manuals also have useful wiring diagrams. Have a look at https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals https://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Workshop-Manual-English Even the R32 GTR wiring diagram, that I have scanned and posted on here, will help, because the circuit for the brake lights is probably all same same. Wire colours, fuse numbers, etc, will possibly be different. But at least you can look at it to see how things are laid out.

You shouldn't ask these questions. You should instead open up the wiring diagram and follow the circuits. You will see that the tail light fuse has nothing to do with the brake lights. You will see that the brake lights are their own thing. The other thing to remember is that typically, such circuits in cars are supplied with 12V out at the load itself and that 12V comes all the way back to the switch and the switch connects to ground when closed. This we call "earth switching". The power is not "supplied" by the switch. Power is always available. The switch gives earth to the circuit. But this is where you really need the wiring diagram, because not all circuits in cars are earth side switched, and a novice can very easily get very confused.

No. You have to interpose the Jaycar unit in the wire from the speed sensor on the gearbox to the input on the cluster. The Jaycar unit's job is to adjust the signal going into the cluster. Let's say that your speedo is currently reading 16% fast (4.11/3.54). The Jaycar box will take in the frequency of the sawtooth signal on its input line and feed out an output that is slowed down to get rid of that 16%. Effectively applying an 86% (ie, 3.54/4.11) factor to it. Or, given that you will likely be using a GPS speedo to work out what the actual vehicle speed is, some factor that is close to but likely a little different to 86%, which would also dial out the original speedo error.

You don't need to worry about the cluster's output. If you get the input right, the cluster's output will be right. The way the Nissan speed sensors and speed signals work is: The speedo sensor in the gearbox/transfercase/diffsnout/wherever generates an alternating current (more or less sawtooth) voltage waveform that varies frequency with vehicle speed. (It also changes voltage, getting larger as it turns faster - but that doesn't matter). The speedo head reads that sawtooth waveform and uses it to drive the speedo needle position. The speedo head also outputs a 0-5v squarewave PWM signal that is the VSS (Vehicle speed signal) to the ECU and any other CU on the car that wants to know vehicle speed. Traditionally, on older cars, there was only the one VSS. But if the 34GTR puts out 2 such, who am I to argue? Anyway, as you can imagine, if you get the input signal right, the cluster will take care of the rest. All you need to do is use the Jaycar module to either speed up or slow down the frequency, as required.

So, start at the brake lamp itself, probe the loom with the multimeter, follow the wiring back until you find where the power is getting into it. If you have disconnected the spot from whence the power is supposed to come, and you still have power, then the power is likely coming in from a spot with damaged insulation in the loom. There is no relay.

I was going to say "how often are you flat towing friends' broken down cars?"....which is flat out illegal in every state in Australia, when I realised that you're in the wild wild east, where it seems to still be normal.

The click won't be a relay. The click will likely just be in the pivot/spring of the pedal. The switch is likely collapsed. Break out the multimeter and fault-find.

Yes.... I guess this is one of the possible QA/QC issues that we will bump into using 3rd party gearsets.

Yeah, dunno. Never had to do any such lookup myself, so have no idea what is normal and what is abnormal but OK and what is abnormal but f**ked.

Purple anodised aluminium is metal. I would suggest, unless you can actually get ahold of the original import workshop, you are indeed screwed. Most of the old shops are long closed.

Do these things have an e-throttle, or are they still using a AAC/IACV for idle control? If the latter, take it off, take it apart, clean it thoroughly with carby cleaner, parts cleaner or brake-kleen. it'll be full of gunk, sticky, and slow to move.

You'll doubt yourself after you've tried this one though.

Nismo arms are of no value. Expensive version of a stock arm. My recommendation for caster rods is to only use those with spherical joints. Any sort of bush at the front end of the caster rod allows for waaaay more movement than is desirable. And in my experience there is absolutely no NVH penalty with sphericals in that location. And.... they seem to last forever. I never have to do anything to them. They're mostly out of the road/wheel spray and don't seem to get dirty, sticky, etc. So, of that lot, you might as well buy local and get the Driftworks ones.

There's ways that this logic doesn't work. If you lower the boost and still try to pump the same mass rate of air, then, depending on where you were on the compressor map originally on the smaller motor, you can find yourself wandering right over to the RHS of the map and giving up 15% or more efficiency. Start pumping hot air, overspeeding, etc etc. This is the same concept as the couple of posts in other turbo threads where a turbo that was expected to go real well didn't, on 3L and 3.2L engines. Just not a good match because of the shape of the comp map.

Meh. I dunno. I haven't got my old calcs with me here to know what I did for things like head gasket, etc. Those old calcs might not even exist, as I may not have saved them. If I do a rough calc now (86mm bore, 71.7 stroke, 51.5cc DET chamber volume) and don't allow for the gasket gap (1mm, equivalent to 5.8cc at 86mm bore diameter), then the CR comes out to 9.1:1, which is spot on the "known" RB25DET CR. If I do allow for the gasket gap on top of the 51.5cc chamber, then the CR drops to 8.25:1. So....does the gasket gap already get taken into consideration in the chamber volume? It looks like it might. So, given that it might, and that when I neglect it, I get the exact right DET CR, let's just ignore the gasket gap and continue. There's another factor though, which is the dome on the piston. The DET chamber is "known" to be 51.5cc, and if the DE chamber is "known" to be 52, then they are almost exactly the same, and could well be the same. In which case, the difference in the resulting CR between them has to come down to the size of the dome. The DE dome would be taller, and would result in a smaller effective chamber volume compared to the DET. (And the DET dome probably explains away the gasket gap problem). So, given that I have no information on the dome sizes, we just have to work backwards from the 10.2: CR to work out what the effective DE chamber volume has to be. It will be smaller than 52. Just throwing smaller chamber volumes at the original calc, with no gasket gap included, shows that the effective DE chamber volume is ~45cc. That's 7cc smaller than the "actual, known" DE chamber size. So, subtract that 7cc from the 62cc of a vanilla DET head's chamber, giving 55cc, and then run that calc forward again with 55c, and...... CR pops out at ~8.6. Your 8.2-8.3 is not that far away from what I got, but both calcs are likely full of crap. I would say somewhere between 8.2 and 8.6 seems very likely though.

This excellent double entendre appears to have been missed by all.

Yeah, nah. Everything attached to the head moves up. So turbo in and out + cooler pipework on both ends needs to be edited. Plus, on an R32 (not the case here, because R33) it's almost impossible to fit under the bonnet without doing undesirable things. A little easier on R33, but still.....stuff you have to do.